SPArKy_Dave

Model Code Description EF G4 Luna Mist Vinyl (Centrefold Seat Only) EF G1 Luna Mist Circuit Cloth EF G1 Luna Mist PacMan Cloth EF T1 Cappuccino PacMan Cloth EF G2 Luna Mist Formula 1 Cloth (XR) EF G1 Luna Mist Teak Velour (Fairmont) EF T1 Cappuccino Teak Velour (Fairmont) EF G1 Luna Mist Granite Velour (Ghia) EF T1 Cappuccino Granite Velour (Ghia) EF G3 Luna Mist Leather (Ghia) EF G1 Luna Mist Charade Velour (Fairlane) EF T1 Cappuccino Charade Velour (Fairlane) EF T3 Cappuccino Leather (LTD) EF T1 Cappuccino St Moritz Velour (LTD) EL G4 Mako Grey Vinyl (Centrefold Seat Only) EL G1 Mako Grey Hayman/Sonnet Fabric EL G1 Mako Grey Aerial/Pin Oak Fabric EL T1 Cappuccino Aerial/Pin Oak Fabric EL G2 Dk Luna Mist Sabre/Raceway Fabric (XR) EL G1 Mako Grey Fresco/Nubuck Velour (Fairmont) EL T1 Cappuccino Fresco/Nubuck Velour (Fairmont) EL G1 Mako Grey Sterling Velour/Leather (Ghia) EL T1 Cappuccino Sterling Velour/Leather (Ghia) EL G3 Mako Grey Leather/Vinyl (Ghia) EL T3 Cappuccino Leather/Vinyl (Ghia) EL G1 Mako Grey Mosaic/Veletta Velour (Fairlane Ghia) EL T1 Cappuccino Mosaic/Veletta Velour (Fairlane Ghia) EL G3 Mako Grey Leather/Vinyl (Fairlane Ghia) EL T3 Cappuccino Leather/Vinyl (Fairlane Ghia) EL G5 Mako Grey Rouched Leather (Fairlane Concord) EL T3 Cappuccino Leather/Vinyl (LTD) EL T1 Cappuccino Baroque Velour (LTD) EL G3 Mako Grey Leather (GT)

I'd suggest to buy a new battery. That's the easiest.

I've always used the long electrode ones myself.

To eliminate the MAF, just un-plug it, and see what happens. it should start/run regardless. The computer has a base program it uses, in case of failure. If the IAC valve is sticking or gummed up, this can cause surging, by the computer constantly over/under adjusting it, whilst attempting to set an expected idle speed.

I'm probably not one to advise either, tbh... I used to run my XF wagon, with the oil light flashing at idle on hot days. I just thought it must be on the worn side, till I had the bright idea to fit a new oil switch one day. Problem solved... At the same time, I tested the pressure with a manual gauge. 25psi at idle from memory. 40-50psi whilst holding revs around 3k-ish rpm.

That's the stock locknut, they're crimped on the end. Overtightened in the past maybe? (apprentice mechanic ugga-dugga's)

The BW40 selector shaft seal, is same as the BTR 4speed. It's just a small lock nut, with a flat washer behind it. The shift lever is held in position, via the selector shaft having two flat sides.

Link with some handy info - https://www.fordforums.com/threads/xf-bumpstops.73697/

The goal of this thread, is comparison.............. clean or dirty, lowered or standard, lets see how people have got their x-series set up. Take some pics similar to mine below, that show the following - front tyre to guard clearance bump stop clearance ball joint angles upper/lower control arm angles swaybar link angle front camber/caster, etc. Here's mine. Specs are as follows - Vehicle - 1995 XG ute Shocks - Koni 82-1742SP4 (short body reds) Springs - Kings Springs KFFL59 (powdercoated black by Kings) Tyres - 225/50R/16

@deankxf, Stock XF Panelvan - Kings Superlow KFFL-59 in the same XF Panelvan -

Some more useful info for @Rayinsydney Left to Right - Koni 82-1742SP4, Pedders Comfort Gas, Genuine Ford, Pedders Sportsrider

@CHESTNUTXE's replica ESP - Before After Oh no!

Here's some useful info, for @Rayinsydney left to right - Genuine Ford, Mackay, RareSpares, SuperPro

Just do what all the kool kids do - have it sitting on the bump stops. Can't run out of travel, if there is none...

If u can, share a pic of the wagon, showing how it sits. Sounds like it's smacking the front bump stops, and/or the shocks are running out of travel.

U can test if it's a dodgy hose, by loosening the hose fitting directly at the caliper. If the seized caliper loosen's, then that's at least part of the issue. I would suggest to compare the new vs old piston seal diameter, using digital vernier calipers. The most recent I witnesses an issue, was with rear XH calipers. The dust seal, doesn't matter too much. We found the aftermarket brand piston seals were a smidgen larger, when compared to the originals, and were also slightly larger than new PBR/Bosch branded seals.

Did you fit new seals, or re-use the old ones? Sounds like either the caliper slides are gummed up, or the piston is sticking. Old piston seals can sometimes be slightly swollen. Even the new (aftermarket non-PBR seals) are sometimes the wrong size also, making the caliper piston stick. The joys of old cars. (not just Fords)

My suggestion, is to start from scratch. Disassemble completely, clean up the caliper body fully, including the hand brake mechanism, use plenty of silicone grease on the thread mechanism, new seals or re-use seals, if ok. I'd try an ultrasonic cleaner, if u have access to one? The piston dust seal goes in the caliper body first, then the piston is pushed into the middle and seated at it's fully compressed position. Ur likely going to need a new piston, as the damaged side surface, may catch and tear the dust seal?

They almost look like XE rear disc calipers? From memory, the earlier ones need the axles removed, to replace the disc itself? I'd probably use some heat on the slides/bushes, before attempting to drive out the slide pins. Those spring clips need to be removed also. I'd probably pull them apart and fit new seals, as a minimum. Protex or IBS, are likely the only ones making new rubber kits for these calipers now. DB3099 - Left Piston (dual keyway piston and thread mech) DB3100 - Right Piston (dual keyway piston and thread mech) DB2694 - (dual keyway piston, no thread mech) DB2925 - (later single keyway piston) K1199S - Caliper Repair Kit Ford-specific calper piston wind-back tools - Dual Keyway - https://www.tetools.com/disc-brake-tool-ford~13875 Single Keyway - https://www.tetools.com/disc-brake-tool-ford~13876 ebay universal kit - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/303466852133 (cheap price)

I've always used DX3 fluid in my BW40's. Same for XE/XF power steering. DX3 is cheap, and commonly available everywhere. E-series and later BTR 4spds use TQ95, and F424 in the power steering.

Sounds like it could be fuel related (or lack thereof)? (either injector, or injector control?) Have u tried swapping Injectors?

I actually have this issue, with the non-matching number engine in the XF SVO project ute... (crossflow six on LPG) Doesn't bother me, as I have a Windsor engine conversion waiting to go in. In my case, the engine runs perfect when cold, but gradually develop's a steady miss, as it warms up. It happens like clockwork. A compression test early on, yielded two cylinders with high compression relative to all the rest, plus oily plugs on cylinders 2,3,5 and 6. (no.2 the worst by FAR) These new plugs, had barely a handful of hours run-time. 1 - 155 2 - 152 3 - 170 4 - 156 5 - 169 6 - 148 Could the issue be caused by valves not opening fully? I'll soon know, once I dissect the engine and measure all the clearances - to hopefully learn something myself My theory is, (in my case at least) it could only be caused by either - 1. a faulty lifter (HLA in the case of OHC engines) 2. a partly wiped cam lobe 3. and/or a very slightly bent/sticking valve stem? (possible but unlikely IMO)

Which model falcon are u referring to?... we probably need to see pics, to give helpful comments. If u can get help, I'd remove/fit the screen myself, rather than the 'pro's'.

Founds some brand new ones - repro? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/275600095528/

Here's an ebay listing, with the different types side by side - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/175342787711/ (expensive rattle can reco!)