dougie77

Thom is the go-to man for this

Au 5.0 uses the engine ecu to control the transfer so you don't need a separate trans controller like E-series 5.0 do, you'll want an engine bay loom with the fuse box also having the dash loom can't hurt you'll want a j3 chip to turn off smartlock or smartshield depending on the year of the ecu

Hey guys I'm trying to find out what I need wiring wise to make an AU V8 and auto work in a 2000 courier. First does anyone make a loom to make it work. Second what do the engine and trans need to see to make them work properly 

Cheers 
 

As for the tank setup 4 cylinder Corty's run a return line so maybe look at that might make life easier as for finding a 4 cylinder Corty tank that could be slightly difficult but I'm sure you know other Corty people
 
 
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read somewhere in melbourne can supply parts or service but thats extent of my knowledge of them. 
Didnt know much about them here in australia compared with impco or gasresearch sought steered clear of them thinking parts could be an issue. Long time ago now so things could be different now.

Quick google shows they're of Polish origin, to suit gas vapour injection (ie positive pressure, not Impco type), brand is KME and model is Red-1 (reducer). Some Aussie sites also came up so shouldn't be too hard to find. Seem popular in UK too.

http://oldwww.kme.eu/EN_autogaz1.html
 
 
European brand? Don't know much about them so I cant comment other than like gasrearch from what I gather

So finally an update. My plans for the M112 fizzled due to the size and wanting to keep it all under the bonnet. Sooo... ive been hard in to it the last 2 days getting her setup as a turbo. Bloody not easy with alot of trial and error. Grinder has had a work out today and i actually had to notch the strut tower to fit the turbo. Will get the whole thing fitted out with piping and the new plenum and precision billet turbo than ill redo the engine bay haha. 3rd time better be the last time.
Already sorted is a new precision billet turbo, 1000cc injectors, surge tank with all supporting lines pumps etc to suit E85, built BTR auto, 3inch system, standalone harness and other bits and bobs. My tuner reckons ill hit 500rwhp with the gear i have, so im looking for 10s

With local and imported ingredients

I apologise for thread mining but I have waited a long time to finally be able to put my car in this thread.

 
 

Good brakes only slow you down mate

Not many people dive this deep, for whatever reason...
(mechanics included)
 
Over the last few years, I dug into the theory and operation of braking systems, any spare chance I had -
chasing solutions to problems with warpage, shuddering, brake feel, responsiveness and more.
 
So far, I've achieved some excellent results from investigating, testing and tuning.
Especially with e-series and b-series.
 
Here's an article, which explains another reason among others, to service calipers.
http://www.ucx.com/documents/squareseal.pdf
 
In the case of standard b-series and Territories -
their brake issues can more often than not, be traced to the phenolic caliper pistons, made from a composite material, rather than steel.
Phenolic pistons are porous, absorbing brake fluid over time, ultimately causing piston retraction issues.

There are 1 tonne load rated wheels from the utes if you are after something H/duty

Dont the xr utes have the same alloy wheels as the sedans? Arent the one tonne utes only fitted with steel rims?
I was under the impression that its the load rating of the tyres more so than the rims themselves that dictate load rating.

If building one for performance you will swap and change parts anyway so there is no real gain on a lower reving engine as far as blocks go. But if you want to turn it past 6500 the XF block is better as far was you can just drop a EF crank into it under 6000 I would not bother unless it was for a race car or something that sees revs for a while at a time

Heads again you just chop and change to suit what you want and the comp ratio you are looking for. The old XDs have a open chamber one the later ones have a smaler chamber one, some will say some are better then others but other then chambers to suit the comp ratio your looking for there all about the same give or take in a few places

Your budget is decent id consider boost at that budget, mine cost less then that and made some nice numbers and real good TQ at no revs you could do 250 300rwhp with that budget if you can spin the spaners yourself mine runs LPG and I did mine for about 3k but the turbo hotside was 2nd hand but that was cooler piping cooler so on and a LPG system that would support a turbo setup. But as has been said a barra turbo even a stock one will stomp most NA 250s back to the stoneage and is a off the shelf engine you can buy anywhere and it would drive like a new power plant and be good on fuel all the pros of a newer engine but a old school car  

^^^ that's what I was thinking. 750 & 850. Not 100% positive though.

I believe they are only a light load rating in comparison to the rims for the utes and Territories.
 
Im not sure if i am 100% correct but the figure of 750kg for standard alloys and 850kg for 104H rated terri and ute rims rings a bell.

I would say it's the same rating as what the tyre placard states for the corresponding tyre on that rim size (ie you can't go shoving light commercial tyres on that rim to up the load rating)

Sounds like an interesting package and would have been advanced in the 90's for sure. Especially as aftermarket efi was in its infancy. Would have been bloody expensive as well back then. Good on them. Sad news on being destroyed in a house fire.
 
I know I'm not the first to do it. Jason was well ahead of me and probably many others. It's the first time I've played with this level of intake and ignition control as previously my stuff was based around the restrictive 'modified sedans' rule book.
 
I must say that I am enjoying the experience and I'm learning heaps and to me, that's what it is all about. The fact that I get to share my journey with you guys is an added reward. You keep me honest and focused.
 
I will build a turbo version Dave. But not until I get this one nailed and the beauty is most of the gear and knowledge will transfer into that build.

That looks tits..... Can't wait to hear it run. .... angrier than a nun in a porn shop.<br /><br />Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk<br /><br />

Cheers mate. Very good quality. I reckon it's going to look wild in the corty.

Yes, yes it will.

111psi is fubar, most crossys no longer run on all banks that low and would also be the miss it has

I would not be chasing issues till you fix that the engine is never going to run any good as its about dead 

and im very surprised that engine does everything you say it does cause that's dead as far s a crossy goes mine had more comp then that with 2 broken comp rings and a side off a piston and it still run on 6cylinders like that was just a chugger out the breather pipe as it would just blow the comp past the rings into the sump

a happy good stock crossy has around 180PSI across the board a few PSI drop is fine as theres a fair bit to a engine, but that things 28psi down from 1 to 6 id almost say the engine had a broken comp ring on 1 being that low or a rather large valve issue

I have a 120.000km crossy in the shed no head $250 if you want it, fit a head (little dave will sell you a brand new one ill ask him if you want. and a $100 for a gasket set and some valve springs and dump it in the hole

or build a new one. a stock crossy cost very little to build last slapper I did cost $670 and about $400 in bits I already had as I have boxes of crossy bits

RIP little crossy
  

 

 

you can look for the issue but I think you have found it, upto you how you go about it. like I said most crossy don't run on all cylinders when there that low



 

Fuck that looks awesome.Cant wait to see it in the Corty.