bear351c

Yeah, different manufacturers had different sizes of hex head. They used to sell a plug stamped OS, for "oversize", but haven't seen one for ages. Yours may have well been drilled and tapped the next size up, 'cos the thread was stripped, look up the sizes for Commodore/Kingswood or maybe British cars. Easy fix would be either a new sump or a helicoil. 
 
Cheaper to scrounge the wreckers for the next sized sump plug, I reckon. 

Yeah, different manufacturers had different sizes of hex head. They used to sell a plug stamped OS, for "oversize", but haven't seen one for ages. Yours may have well been drilled and tapped the next size up, 'cos the thread was stripped, look up the sizes for Commodore/Kingswood or maybe British cars. Easy fix would be either a new sump or a helicoil. 
 
Cheaper to scrounge the wreckers for the next sized sump plug, I reckon. 

Yeah, mate.!   9.5 to 1.

There should be a little gap, on single groove valves. The multi groove don't have the gap so the valve can rotate.

One day i will put my xflow on a dyno, hope to get 230-250hp out of it with the 600vs carby. But i have done nothing to fix the rusty body it sits in since my last project thread update. Kids and too many other projects, bikes and boat.

Yeah, I get it. You would have to spend a fair amount of coin to get horsepower out of the Crossy, would that much money buy you a stock 230HP Clevo.?  Obviously things are different in everyones home town. Still keen to see the build..👍

On that subject.... I went through this whole T5 to V8 thing a few years back, the problem is that there was no factory T5/V8 combo until the E-series came out, which has a deeper bellhousing by 16mm and longer input to suit. So you need to know what T5 will bolt to the bellhousing you're getting and also what tooth count your flywheel will need to be to match it (157 or 164). The flywheel needs to be a later (post-82) 50oz imbalance vs the earlier 28oz.
 
I ended up using the 6 cyl T5 out of my EA/EF which has the same input shaft length as X and E-series 6s and the older, pre-XF V8s, (ie T5, Toploader and single rail). I used an old Toploader iron bellhousing modified to suit the T5 bolt pattern, which was to suit the 164 tooth Clevo flywheel. It works, nothing broken yet.
 
If your bellhousing is the shorter input type, ie to suit the 6 cylinder T5s, I'd advise to use the EB2-ED ratio box with the 3.25 1st gear. Mine is shorter at 3.50 and it's a bit too short for my liking. The EB/ED boxes also have a taller 5th gear.
 
Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 

Victory is mine!!!
 
Picked up a 3.23 LSD disc brake diff with the leaf springs etc. out of an XH for $600,,,,,,, and it comes with a free panelvan attached to it 😛

Standard 5.0l diff ratio throughout all e series was 3.23, btr and t5 have the same od ratio (.68) v8 falcons, fairmont, fairlane and xr8 rarely had an lsd unless it was optioned that way series 2 el xr8 is the exception as the standard dif was 3.45 lsd, other 5.0l cars that came with 3.45 lsd standard were eb gt, ed sprint and el gt, e series didn't run a very large range of ratios (eb to el, most of ea also had 2.77 as they had bw 40 instead of btr 4 speed) 3.08 being the tallest and 3.45 being the lowest in the middle was mostly 3.23 but I have seen some 3.27, based on a standard height tyre 205 65 15 (this is just from memory so may be a little off)
3.08@ 100kph= 1700rpm
3.23/3.27@100kph= 2000rpm
3.45@ 100kph= 2200rpm
9 times our of 10 swapping to 3.45 in any e series (6 cyl or v8) would usually yield better fuel economy than the other ratios

Yep, the exhaust valve is cracked.  Needed to find my valve spring compressor, to be sure. Thought the valve just had a scratch on on the base, to go along with all the other damage, but, I cut up an old ring spanner and used a C-clamp, necessity is the mother an all that.........  
 

 
Valve is cactus.........

 
But, on a good note, one of the sump pan bolts that was snapped off flush, has been persuaded to part company with the block. Good ole left handed drill bits....
 

 
 
Numbers are starting to add up, now.  Full gasket set, mains, big ends, welshies, exhaust valve, rings, paint...... not sure its worth the effort. This was just a boredom project while I was babysitting the Corona virus, not sure the 170 is worth $300-400 to anyone. I thought I might have to stick it in the Hardtop (rego red tape in SA.......don't get me started) but She'll be V8 swapped anyways.  Still would need to check the trans, diff, find some misc bolts, starter motor, radiator etc.....  
 
Prob think better when I'm back on the REAL Corona's......

I'm no expert on ratio's, but with the extra gear in the 5 speed, I'd guess at 3.00 to 1. Anyone else.?? 
I'd be keen to find out myself, as I'm shoving a T5 in the XP.........
 
 
 
 
...one day.

As Dean said, no probs. Don't even have to cut the brackets off if they don't interfere with anything, just weld the spring perches on. Make sure you get the pinion angle correct. 
 

Good ones are starting to pull into the $500 ish range if they are proved to be a good runner, especially if its motor and box, early falcons are really popular right now, at least the pre crossflows can be made to sound pretty good with a dual exhaust (if you do go that route then you'd be able to keep most of the same exhaust with the windsor) its all because of the shared centre exhaust port combined with a set of split headers makes them sound good, you can pick up power by putting a divider in that port but then they sound exactly like a crossflow, here's a couple of videos of pre xflow's with dual exhaust

yeah that's getting up there.  
@Thom might know if there's any demand for one,. be better than a 144 or something in an XK or similar and seeing it's reasonable fresh it might have some value
 

As Dean said, no probs. Don't even have to cut the brackets off if they don't interfere with anything, just weld the spring perches on. Make sure you get the pinion angle correct. 
 

Yep, the exhaust valve is cracked.  Needed to find my valve spring compressor, to be sure. Thought the valve just had a scratch on on the base, to go along with all the other damage, but, I cut up an old ring spanner and used a C-clamp, necessity is the mother an all that.........  
 

 
Valve is cactus.........

 
But, on a good note, one of the sump pan bolts that was snapped off flush, has been persuaded to part company with the block. Good ole left handed drill bits....
 

 
 
Numbers are starting to add up, now.  Full gasket set, mains, big ends, welshies, exhaust valve, rings, paint...... not sure its worth the effort. This was just a boredom project while I was babysitting the Corona virus, not sure the 170 is worth $300-400 to anyone. I thought I might have to stick it in the Hardtop (rego red tape in SA.......don't get me started) but She'll be V8 swapped anyways.  Still would need to check the trans, diff, find some misc bolts, starter motor, radiator etc.....  
 
Prob think better when I'm back on the REAL Corona's......

is that possibly a crack in the exhaust valve?

The last one I did i basically just neatened up the castings in the exhaust ports and concentrated on the bowl area/cleaning up reshaping the guides, I think I only spent about 1/2 an hour on each port, woke it up though, I wish I still has pics of the 170 head I ported for my old xp, these pics are from the 250 head I milled the carb flange off and made a 2 barrel holley adapter

So, after a coupla days on the couch with the Rona, I got back out into the shed, and finished stripping the big block 170.  Crank out, cam out, wash and degrease, kissed the lifter bores with a brake hone, and ran the 3 prong hone down the cylinders. 
Angry face...!!  Punched out the little welshy, found the last one behind it.!  
 
 
 
Cyl 3 looks like it had a water leak, or was just sitting for years with the valves open.
 
 
Look at the dodgy castings from the Sixties.. Didn't even make it a SQUARE..!    Held the gasket up and there ain't much you can do about this. The casting on the back is cut back at 45*, and you easily grind through, and 'cos this is a log manifold, the whole head then goes in the bin.
 
 
All the bits, from the guts of the engine, set out with typical ADHD fashion...
 
 
Cylinder 5 had a piece of piston ring, or a chipped valve, piece of gravel bouncing around inside. There's some damage to the piston, and the head. Nothing too serious.
 
 
.......now to make a valve spring compressor.
 

So, after a coupla days on the couch with the Rona, I got back out into the shed, and finished stripping the big block 170.  Crank out, cam out, wash and degrease, kissed the lifter bores with a brake hone, and ran the 3 prong hone down the cylinders. 
Angry face...!!  Punched out the little welshy, found the last one behind it.!  
 
 
 
Cyl 3 looks like it had a water leak, or was just sitting for years with the valves open.
 
 
Look at the dodgy castings from the Sixties.. Didn't even make it a SQUARE..!    Held the gasket up and there ain't much you can do about this. The casting on the back is cut back at 45*, and you easily grind through, and 'cos this is a log manifold, the whole head then goes in the bin.
 
 
All the bits, from the guts of the engine, set out with typical ADHD fashion...
 
 
Cylinder 5 had a piece of piston ring, or a chipped valve, piece of gravel bouncing around inside. There's some damage to the piston, and the head. Nothing too serious.
 
 
.......now to make a valve spring compressor.
 

So, after a coupla days on the couch with the Rona, I got back out into the shed, and finished stripping the big block 170.  Crank out, cam out, wash and degrease, kissed the lifter bores with a brake hone, and ran the 3 prong hone down the cylinders. 
Angry face...!!  Punched out the little welshy, found the last one behind it.!  
 
 
 
Cyl 3 looks like it had a water leak, or was just sitting for years with the valves open.
 
 
Look at the dodgy castings from the Sixties.. Didn't even make it a SQUARE..!    Held the gasket up and there ain't much you can do about this. The casting on the back is cut back at 45*, and you easily grind through, and 'cos this is a log manifold, the whole head then goes in the bin.
 
 
All the bits, from the guts of the engine, set out with typical ADHD fashion...
 
 
Cylinder 5 had a piece of piston ring, or a chipped valve, piece of gravel bouncing around inside. There's some damage to the piston, and the head. Nothing too serious.
 
 
.......now to make a valve spring compressor.
 

So, after a coupla days on the couch with the Rona, I got back out into the shed, and finished stripping the big block 170.  Crank out, cam out, wash and degrease, kissed the lifter bores with a brake hone, and ran the 3 prong hone down the cylinders. 
Angry face...!!  Punched out the little welshy, found the last one behind it.!  
 
 
 
Cyl 3 looks like it had a water leak, or was just sitting for years with the valves open.
 
 
Look at the dodgy castings from the Sixties.. Didn't even make it a SQUARE..!    Held the gasket up and there ain't much you can do about this. The casting on the back is cut back at 45*, and you easily grind through, and 'cos this is a log manifold, the whole head then goes in the bin.
 
 
All the bits, from the guts of the engine, set out with typical ADHD fashion...
 
 
Cylinder 5 had a piece of piston ring, or a chipped valve, piece of gravel bouncing around inside. There's some damage to the piston, and the head. Nothing too serious.
 
 
.......now to make a valve spring compressor.
 

some interesting engines being rebuilt here on oz falcon,bear try and find the 300.

So, after a coupla days on the couch with the Rona, I got back out into the shed, and finished stripping the big block 170.  Crank out, cam out, wash and degrease, kissed the lifter bores with a brake hone, and ran the 3 prong hone down the cylinders. 
Angry face...!!  Punched out the little welshy, found the last one behind it.!  
 
 
 
Cyl 3 looks like it had a water leak, or was just sitting for years with the valves open.
 
 
Look at the dodgy castings from the Sixties.. Didn't even make it a SQUARE..!    Held the gasket up and there ain't much you can do about this. The casting on the back is cut back at 45*, and you easily grind through, and 'cos this is a log manifold, the whole head then goes in the bin.
 
 
All the bits, from the guts of the engine, set out with typical ADHD fashion...
 
 
Cylinder 5 had a piece of piston ring, or a chipped valve, piece of gravel bouncing around inside. There's some damage to the piston, and the head. Nothing too serious.
 
 
.......now to make a valve spring compressor.
 

Cool.  Sounds like my XP build. Got a 302 (1993? I think) Weiand carby manifold, T5 out of an ED 6 cyl,, and a Watts link from a EL XR6.  Will be following with interest.