bear351c

Products like Helicoil, or Recoil will fix it.  You need to rethread (tap) the hole, and install a "coil" with the head bolt thread on the inner surface. Looks like a small spring. 

I am not liking the idea of being under the car and working on it with the engine and gearbox suspended above me.
If it comes to the point of having to take the gearbox out it is not a whole lot more to take the engine out completely.
 
Thanks for the feed back fellas. I thought there might be somebody on the forum who had done it recently and describe exactly how it is done.
 
At the moment it is not a drastic leak so I will keep driving it until I get everything in place to pull it out. With the engine out I can lay it over on the exhaust side or upside down and make sure I get it right this time.
 
Can't get genuine sump gasket kits and ole mate tells me these Chinese made ones are just not as accurately made. That sounds familiar!!!!
 
Thanks again. I'll do a vid of the job and post it.

Have done my xc a couple of times in the past. Undo engine mounts, remove swaybar, jack up engine far enough to fit some bits of 2x4 under each engine mount, sump comes out with a bit of a twist and wiggle.

Prick of a job tbh.

There a few units now that don't actually need the unit anywhere visible - the display and info and buttons are all on the mic. But these tend to be at the higher end of the market.
 
GME is probably the best brand, but Oricom and Uniden are also decent.
 
When it comes to aerials - taller doesn't mean better reception. Go by the db rating. Lower db has circular reception, higher db it becomes more oval. So for hilly mountainous terrain you want around the 4 to 6 db. Long flat open terrain you want 6 or higher.
 
You can get magnetic base aerials, that might be best for you in terms of easy removal/storage? Downside is having to run a cord each time.
 
With the bullbar, I'd be inclined to run a extension cord from the CB to the front. Then have the aerial on a pipe clamp type bracket, which would allow fairly easy removal when not using.
 
 

Yeah, I ran a Carter electric on my 351 for years, had a kill switch in line as an anti theft device, as well. 😁

Yeah, I ran a Carter electric on my 351 for years, had a kill switch in line as an anti theft device, as well. 😁

The power👽 of OzFalcon, compels you!
😅
 

Usually all fuel line is 90% hard tube. It stops the damage from tools, rocks, weather etc... You NEED a definite rubber connection because the engine rocks back and forth, and the chassis doesn't. There's typically a rubber line into the fuel sender, and one into the carb/fuel inlet. The square Facet pumps are a "push" pump, they need to be mounted as close to the fuel tank as practicable, not in the engine bay (where it has to "pull" fuel up). 

WoW...😯 Just ordered 2 kits last night........Freaky.
 
One for the 170, and one for the 302. 

That’s what I figured bear351. I think someone has been lazy in the past with just about everything on this car. The Facet pump has been mounted in the engine bay and up high too... go figure.

Ok, looks like I’ll be restoring the mechanical pump (by replacing it with a Goss or Fuelmiser - very available). I’ll pay my local X-series wrecker a visit an see if I can scavenge the relevant hardlines. If they’re difficult to find, rubber hose will do until I manage to get some.


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For anyone needing replacement Ford crossflow 6cyl welsh plugs - Premier Engine Components (Nasons), makes a full (Australian Made) brass welsh plug kit
with x5 1-3/4 plus x2 2-1/16 and x1 tiny 7/16 plug - part no. WPEK971
OR
they also have the 1-3/4 cup welsh plugs by the bag of x10 - part no. BC1034 (brass), PMSC1034 (steel), SSC1034 (stainless steel)
https://premiermachinery.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/premier-welch-plugs.pdf
 
Precision Engine Parts sells brass welsh plugs individually, but not sure on the brand.
Part numbers as follows -
7/16 - CP0010
1-1/2 - CP0250
1-3/4 - CP0320
2-1/16 - CP0450
https://precisionintl.com/v/ford-australia-falcon-xf-4-1-1986-1993-petrol-ute/c/100000-standard/106000-cooling-fuel-oil-systems/106169-core-plugs
 
Merry Christmas.

Usually all fuel line is 90% hard tube. It stops the damage from tools, rocks, weather etc... You NEED a definite rubber connection because the engine rocks back and forth, and the chassis doesn't. There's typically a rubber line into the fuel sender, and one into the carb/fuel inlet. The square Facet pumps are a "push" pump, they need to be mounted as close to the fuel tank as practicable, not in the engine bay (where it has to "pull" fuel up). 

Ok I got it soughted and the finish line is not far away.

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Yep, you're right. The ballast resistor is for points ignition, and the old Coke can coil has a little "R" after the brand name/number. EG. GT40 or the GT40r. 
Can also get them in the epoxy filled coil range too. 
 
 
You need the GT40 style.
 
 

Thanks for the info. I am still looking for a chance to score a set of gt or ltd etc radius bars and think i will be looking for a while. should be enough to control the power I hope to be using.

Trying to find XA/XB tramp rods will be expensive. The ones off an LTD (P5 etc) were slightly longer, and may be easier to find. 
Good luck with it. I'm thinking about the Watts link rear end into my XP, so watching with interest.

What a cool project. Love the first Eskies/Capri's.  Did you look at reset leaf springs, or happy with lowering blocks.? 

i found a set of caps for the other block ,getting them next month,at least thats something and got them cheap so a line bore is not out of the question anymore,and it will give me another 460 to build or 429 ,im thinking of doing a nice 429 just for something different,rods are the same and pistons are cheap as chips from usa as most go for the 460 build,just some ideas at this stage.

Struck a snag as no main caps as I was promised he said he don't have em so I'm fkd but wait a minute got another 460 block this morning and it's the same shape just needs some TLC and at least it has its caps,I was quoted around $750 to line bore the other block and almost impossible to find a set of 460 caps I just bought another block and saved this project,machine shop costs are huge.by the end of the day I got the block looking half reasonable

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Sweet.! 

That timing chain is a standard Morse chain. Multi link for maximum quiet. Multi keyed sprocket is for advancing/retarding the cam. 
Reckon that round corky is for under the oil filler cap. ??

Could you run the chrome base and black top.?? Sort of mix and match....

Yes bear I just bought it cause I never seen a Morse type with a multi Index sprocket on e bay says sold heaps of them ? Seem popular with a stocker,that big cork is a lot bigger than a rocker cover oil cap its about 5 inches

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That timing chain is a standard Morse chain. Multi link for maximum quiet. Multi keyed sprocket is for advancing/retarding the cam. 
Reckon that round corky is for under the oil filler cap. ??

Yeah, different manufacturers had different sizes of hex head. They used to sell a plug stamped OS, for "oversize", but haven't seen one for ages. Yours may have well been drilled and tapped the next size up, 'cos the thread was stripped, look up the sizes for Commodore/Kingswood or maybe British cars. Easy fix would be either a new sump or a helicoil. 
 
Cheaper to scrounge the wreckers for the next sized sump plug, I reckon.