bear351c

Would be way cool, and friggin' expensive, if you had 2 big ar$e flat screens on the sides, playing vast amount of stars moving sideways. Give you the feeling that your'e travelling through space. LMAO.
 
Great work, mate. Should be proud of your achievements.  

Been through some changes since this photo.

 

How old are the points? A lot of new points the spring is too soft letting the points float exactly the same way sometimes valve springs let the valves float, easiest way to check is if you have an old set that are usable throw them in and see if the problem disappears

Yeah, not convinced.   I did mine last year on the XA, absolute bitch to get the rubber seal in place, while holding the timing cover, lining up the dowel pins, etc..  I sanded off the small lip on the outside of the rubber, (made it thinner) and it went in easier. VERY clean is the key.!  Paint thinners or acetone to remove all oil residue. Silastics/sealants wont stick to oil. Also, aftermarket sumps don't fit the best, prefer old originals.

TTS010, is XD/XE Cleveland - (XD/XE gauges use lower resistance senders)
U need to run an XF temp sender, for the XF dash cluster
 
I think around 60ohms, = mid-way on XF temp gauges, and 35ohms = Max/Hot
 
Tridon TTS037 should be the one u need. (thread/post terminal)
OR
VDO 320.093 (OEM)
OR
FuelMiser CTS144
Undo the thread adaptor from ur old sensor, and re-use it (Crossflow 1/8 - 27NPT to Cleveland 3/8 - 18NPT)

Dont worry too much about the fitting/terminal, just cut off the spade or whatever on your wiring, and solder on the correct terminal for the sender. Clevo temp sender usually goes in the front of the block, left hand side of the water pump. Sounds like you just need the sender to operate in a different range. @SPArKy_Dave Do you know what Ohms etc might suit..?

Don't skimp on the cost, buy the Loctite product called literally "Rear view mirror glue" or whatever, It works every time.... Scrape the glass clean, use the primer in the pack, and clean the Ford plate thingy, put your sunvisors down and make sure they don't hit (make it central in other words).  Place the metal plate on the inside of the windscreen, get a mate/wife/girlfriend to mark the outside of the windscreen with a texta or marker. Prime both surfaces, dab on the glue, stick on, Robert's ya Fathers brother. 
 
Don't heaps of these over the years, never fall off.

Don't skimp on the cost, buy the Loctite product called literally "Rear view mirror glue" or whatever, It works every time.... Scrape the glass clean, use the primer in the pack, and clean the Ford plate thingy, put your sunvisors down and make sure they don't hit (make it central in other words).  Place the metal plate on the inside of the windscreen, get a mate/wife/girlfriend to mark the outside of the windscreen with a texta or marker. Prime both surfaces, dab on the glue, stick on, Robert's ya Fathers brother. 
 
Don't heaps of these over the years, never fall off.

Could well be. As Sparky Dave said, you need the Resistor coil, for anything with contact points. Doesn't matter if it's a "coke can" or a T -coil, as long as it has the R after the GT40. 

Could well be. As Sparky Dave said, you need the Resistor coil, for anything with contact points. Doesn't matter if it's a "coke can" or a T -coil, as long as it has the R after the GT40. 

That sort of coil should be fine, just needs to be a GT40R coil - to suit a resistor wire/points system
GT40R is a 9v coil - to suit points
GT40 is a 12v coil, for electronic style ignition

I’m not actually sure who the supplier has lined up to do it. 
 
Taking a wild stab, being only small bumperettes, id imagine $100-$150 a piece. 
 
I’m sure they could ship the bare bumpers here to be chromed, however it has to be a cost of thing. All about making as much profit as possible, over making a quality product. Sad world we live in, but its reality  

Well Today marks 3 years since the Escort was written off. 
 
So where is the car at? 
 
I’ve actually gone backwards a bit. 
The front bumpers are off again, because of rust that was coming up from under the terrible chinese chrome plating. The supplier is looking at getting them done again locally for me at his expense. 
 
The extractors are off getting ceramic coated, I should have them back in a week or so. So at present the car is not running and on stands with the exhaust also on a stand so the car isn’t going far any time soon. 
 
On the flip side, I went and spent a good chunk of money on it during the week, picking up new underlay come sound deadener. 
I went to Car Builders, with the intention of grabbing the adhesive stuff, but having a good chat with someone I know who runs Car Builders, what I wanted is a new product they have released only in the last 12 months, which is a carpet underlay which is hard backed on one side, and then the other side is about 20mm thick acoustic/deadening foam. It just has to be cut to shape, and lay it in. The underlay weighs about 4kg, so won’t need to be stuck down, its own weight is enough to stay in place, plus the carpet on top. 
Its nice having contacts within a company such as Car Builders. Andrew is a hell of a nice guy. Rod and I helped him with a gearbox for his Mk1 Escort, and in return gave me a mad discount on the underlay, and threw the templating sheet in for nothing. 
 
I also got a full set of bailey channel for the door glass. 
 
So with today being a bad omen for me, I refuse to go anywhere on this day every year. I’m not kidding, I have previously even taken a day off work if its during the week so I don’t need to leave the house. 
 
Today I intend to set myself up in the shed, finish the rust protection in the bottoms of the doors, hopefully get the bailey channels in, and come up with a plan to mark out the floor pan onto the template sheet supplied by Car Builders, to then transfer over to the underlay and cut it out to be installed in the car. 

It’s for an XA ute from South Africa, so I assume not fundamental difference from the Aussie version.
 
Here’s what I’m thinking for the front;
 
King low springs KFFL-02
Koni shocks 82-1742SP4
Global West Negative Roll A-arms MNR-733
Global West eccentric lock kit Loc-2
Opentracker roller spring perches ORP-1001
SuperPro strut bush SPF2254K
 
Trial the stock sway bar, if it’s fine then put SuperPro bushes on there as well.
 
For the rear;
Reset rear leaves to match however the front ends up in terms of height to get a slight rake.
Koni shocks 80-2319
Global West Del-A-Lum shackles, not sure of the fit or part number for these 106SH maybe? Depends on rear spring eye diameter, the 106SH being for 1.400”-1.410” diameter
 
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Hi mate, "general" rule is 3/4 to 1 thousandths of an inch per inch of shaft diameter. 0.0075" - 0.001" So, a 2 inch journal can have 0.002" of clearance. 
As I said, this is a "general rule", as things like race engines, boost, revlimit can come into play. Stick with a well known brand like ACL, Clevite, Federal Mogul etc.....they aren't that expensive considering what they do. 
 

Good to hear you found the issue.  As Sparky Dave suggested, could you get some thinners/kero/whatever and some Gun barrel brushes or pipe cleaners in there and clean it out or is it rusted out.?

Cool. 
See if you can find a second hand filter sock at a wreckers, any one will doo, as long as it can be secured to the pick up tube tightly. Wire/hose clamp etc....

Hey guys,
 
Soaked some kero in it for a while, then hammered flat a piece of steel wire - put that in a drill and then augered it up there for a bit and eventually got it loose enough to air compress out of there. so it worked well hey!
 
I tried looking for a universal one but couldnt find one that fits anywhere to this so fingers crossed I can get this one to work also couldnt find the filter to fit on the bottom of it hey haha
 
Im thinking Ill just put another high end filter on the line and run it bare???

Hi mate, "general" rule is 3/4 to 1 thousandths of an inch per inch of shaft diameter. 0.0075" - 0.001" So, a 2 inch journal can have 0.002" of clearance. 
As I said, this is a "general rule", as things like race engines, boost, revlimit can come into play. Stick with a well known brand like ACL, Clevite, Federal Mogul etc.....they aren't that expensive considering what they do. 
 

Looks like Ive found the issue... this is blocked up super hard.
 
Sorry its taken me so long to come back to the forum, ive been really sick.
 
So I have a question now, if I cant unstuck this fuel sender, is there are new age equivalent?
 
It did its job and ate all the rust and crap in the tank but sacrificed itself in such a noble way to protect engine.
 
 

so,  its still no go, so my mechanic is going to come up one night and have a look ( he's done  a heap of work on this car so knows it well ) , its a mystery but I'll let you all know the results.
 
Fingers crossed, and thanks for your suggestions.

Yup that's exactly what I've done mate, a dab of locktite just for good measure. Got a good tighten on the thread, to the point when I nip it up the gear will shift. I ended up with 3 spring washers and the nut just flush with end of the thread. 

I dunno, Dean,  the XC/XD rears are PITA as well. Must be close second.....

they are the most asshole of any of the ford calipers
the handbrake levers often seize up also.

@SPArKy_Dave may know where to get the kits and the tool also for winding them out
i've always had enough spares i've swapped them(15yrs ago was the last one) 
i think i traded 6 crap ones for 2 reco ones once also. 

Yeah, I have worked out that I need the bracket to hold the switch. My FMX came from a Mustang so it would have had the neutral switch on the shifter. It is the same switch as the one on the BW35. I reckon I can fabricate something rather than pay $300 for a bracket. Thanx everyone!

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