bear351c

Fixed. 

Has anyone mentioned guide coating. Once you've primed....apply a light dusting of a contrasting paint (black) from a can. Any matte paint from a spray can will do but i like the stuff that can be removed by prepsol-prewash. Wet sand this back (600-800 grit). Sanding will reveal surface imperfections as the guide coat will remain in low areas of the repaired area that may need further repair. If the imperfections are minor - say scratches - further wet sanding may remove the offending features. Alternatively, a generous coat of primer-filler (thick primer) with guide coating again may solve the problem. Guide coating is great for show areas where body filler hasn't been properly blended with the surrounding area. This will show up like the proverbial dogs balls once the top coat is applied.
 
I'm just a backyard hack with a desire for a good finish but skill set that doesn't quite match. If you're anything like me..a repair may need several iterations before it's acceptable. Ya back yarder can achieve a good result....it just requires patience - don't rush. It takes multiple times longer for a hobbyist to achieve a professional-looking result - but it can be done.

Thanks for all of the input lads! My putty ended up drying hard enough to seal the leak so I think I will just leave it as is and use it as a spare only. Really appreciate the input.

I have seen those umbrella type valve stem seals get 'picked' up by the inner spring or damper in some application and this allows oil to get past and can cause this issue. 
 
I'm not sure of the size of the valve guide boss on a clevo but if it is the same as crossflow and I'm tipping it would be, you can use the stem seals off an eb-ed or late EFI X FLOW as they are steel body with a rubber seal and spring as described by Bear above. 
 
Those umbrella seals just look way too agricultural for me in that they have no way of keeping the seal around the valve tight like the spring ones.  once they are worn they just slop all over the place. 
 
If its only smoking on start up and there is no evidence on the plugs or exhaust of oil deposits then I'd be tipping valve stem seals, perhaps a poor/ old batch.

Ok here we go.
 
This photo is of standard springs and blocks not settled or loaded etc
 

 
Next shots are new springs.
 

 

 
For some reason they are small photos???

One thing that is on your side is that it's a factory Ford alloy. They made them very beefy (as they did Snowflakes) to pass their durability testing. It's odd to see such a defect in a quality factory part. I know that welding cast is a bitch, but any aluminium welder will be able to tell you yes or no if it's fixable. Another option is to clean it up with some vinegar and squirt some wicking grade Loctite into it (this is exactly the sort of thing it's designed to do) depending on the size of the hole of course. I don't believe it would be a stress fracture given how strong factory alloys are. I think there would be some obvious signs of damage if it was a fracture, and that area doesn't seem to be anywhere near where the stress points are (ie where the spokes join). I think it's either corrosion or porosity.

12 gauge with solids................get both sides done. 

Good idea. If the valve seals and/or guides are worn, the oil will drip down during the day and sit on the piston, only burning on start up. Rings generally burn oil all the time, or under load. I've used the rubber umbrellas before without issue, although my engine head guy, suggested I machine the valve guides to accept the Chev ones, (metal cap with a rubber seal and a small spring around them). Just couldn't put anything with a "C" in it on my Ford..

Chrome in your case and lots of it

Yeah, if there not down tight, next time you fill your tank, petrol will leak out.
 
------then the attendant gets the shits on,
........then the Fire truck came,
.....then the swear words started.

the car was not fitted with a v8 to start with. i just hate extra shit that i dont need. 
 
iv just always thought colder air = better density = better combustion so never seen the point ramming hot air down the guts of your engine, weather cruising or thrashing it.

thats the rule in every state

Agreed +1.
 
I made a tool out of round stock, 600mm long with 2x 50mm prongs welded to it, at 90*. Worked a treat. Just needed a quarter turn more, to stop fuel weeping out.

Yeah, if there not down tight, next time you fill your tank, petrol will leak out.
 
------then the attendant gets the shits on,
........then the Fire truck came,
.....then the swear words started.

Somthing ive seen a few times is the master cylinder kills the seal cause its never bween pushed very far down when you undo the bleed valves and push it to the floor it kills the seal, that i think will be your issue. The bore of the master gets shit and corodes you push the piston into all that and the seal dies a painfull death, screaming all the way to the bottom  

Agreed +1.
 
I made a tool out of round stock, 600mm long with 2x 50mm prongs welded to it, at 90*. Worked a treat. Just needed a quarter turn more, to stop fuel weeping out.

I know a bloke who spins them to 7500 in a ski boat no probs, with stock bottom end bits. Clevos are race motors de-tuned for the street. Balance is the key if you want them to live.

Biggest prick of that job is the plastic retaining ring that screws onto the tank. They tend to shrink over time and seize on. Not easy to get back on either, and to keep the gasket in place while doing so.

Pretty easy dude, just take the sender assembly out of the tank (screws on top of tank) , remove assembly.... being careful NOT to bend the arm on float or damage anything, then remove old pump, fit up new pump and drop back in .... done.
 
Jack.

You running a dry sump, or an oil cooler, Trev ??

Been married long sparky Dave???

Man, this thread is even dirtier than the eye candy thread......... 
(might have to do some post censoring....  )

Brake booster diaphragm works on vacuum, so wont do much without engine running. Should be able to pump fluid through, but, if line is completely empty EG: all the way from master cyl to rear brakes, then you will probably empty the reservoir, before the pedal gets firm. Remember to only crack open the bleed screw a couple of mm, or air will be dragged back in. Always keep an eye on the reservoir level. Use a air operated break bleeder if you can scrounge one up.
Not sure how talented you are, but, this is usually a 2 man job, and a 6 pack. 
 
3 pumps up and down, hold to the floor.
Crack open bleed nipple for a second or two.
Lock it back up.
Release pedal.
Repeat.
 
Not suggesting you don't know this, just unsure how much experience you have.
Let us know how ya get on, matey.
 
Ha ha ha ha hah.......I wrote "nipple". That's so rude.

OK, 595mm from underneath the cap, on the dipstick. is normal. 610mm is the ADD mark.  Check when HOT in PARK.

Race ya...........