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bear351c

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  1. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from Thom in Xr Tunnel   
    Normally around 3 degrees as Sparky Dave suggested. Honestly, it can be 2 -5* as long as your diff angle is the same, but opposite direction. stick angle gauge on manifold with carby off, engine fully installed, or transmission shaft hanging out the back of trans, should be angled 3* down, so make sure the diff is 3* up. 
     
     
  2. Like
    bear351c reacted to Panko in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    Im pretty sure i held 5th at speed up there. I don’t remember really having to work 4th. 
     
    i think once it was at speed, it could hold 5th up hill fine. 
    i can cruise around in 5th at 60km/h for example. 
  3. Wow
    bear351c reacted to Thom in Thom's 4.0l thread   
    Here's an old video circa 2007 with my phone taped to the steering wheel running from zero to 180 kph (i was inventive back then) of my pick a part special 4.0 it made 144rwkw around this time, and it made 177 rwkw with a tune later on (video quality is representative of its time) it was in my xh ute with an ex taxi au short motor (from memory had more than 860,xxx ks), ef xr6 head (94 dt) ea cam, el bbm intake, super cat extractors, crow vernier cam gear, yella terra billet flywheel, high flow cat 2.5 inch exhaust, t5 and 3.45 gears, it was a lot of fun to an 18 year old me, I put over 180,xxxks on that engine before it let go when the stock valve train decided that 2 years of turning to 7000rpm was enough and it dropped a valve, after it was tuned the rev limiter was set to 7200rpm and it saw it every time it was in 1st gear (18 year old me was hard on the equipment) and sometimes more often than that, I wouldn't mind getting another e-series one day and replicating this combo, although it would be really fun in something lightweight like an xp falcon


  4. Cool
    bear351c reacted to Oscar of Markoz in TF Cortina Project   
  5. Cool
    bear351c reacted to Panko in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    Its more about how im going to install it and hold it in place. haven't figured that one out yet. 
     
    ill come up with something eventually. 
  6. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from deankxf in Panel Van Interior Builds   
    Would be way cool, and friggin' expensive, if you had 2 big ar$e flat screens on the sides, playing vast amount of stars moving sideways. Give you the feeling that your'e travelling through space. LMAO.
     
    Great work, mate. Should be proud of your achievements.  
  7. Like
    bear351c reacted to iamaelephant in Engine mounts interfering with oil pan?   
    I have Pioneer 602257 mounts on their way now, I'll let you know if they look any better.
  8. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from Panko in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    WOW.......... 😲  One of the best looking small Fords, built the way YOU wanted it.  The retro seat cover material on the Recaros looks ace.  Did you end up with something to cover the rear of the back seat, form inside the boot.?? Just so you can't see the frame.  Credit to you, mate. Excellent results. 
  9. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in Engine mounts interfering with oil pan?   
    Looks like the weight of the engine is pushing the 2 mounts in towards each other. When they're bolted in they tend to "hang" spreading apart. As Chestnut said, the aftermarket Clevo sumps can be a bad fit, I've fitted a couple, and had to trim, grind, elongate holes etc.  It's just symptom of the non genuine market. Got an old original sump you can slide in, just to see if it fits better.??
     
  10. Like
    bear351c reacted to 2redrovers in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    For more peace of mind about whether you sealed the holes, get something like penetrol or similar wicking agent. Squirt a bit around all the clips, repeat a couple of times over a couple of weeks and it should get a good barrier layer in there to help prevent (or at least dramatically slow) any corrosion.
  11. Cool
    bear351c reacted to Panko in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    Thanks guys. 
    Its a huge effort, and its something i don’t want to do again. Ever. well at least not from a smashed base. Id probably be ok with building a car from a good base, but not from something thats been stacked. 
     
    There will always be things I wish I had done differently. 
    I wish i had replaced the roof lining. I was convinced to leave it because its original and to be fair, in good condition. I may still do it in the future. 
    Im on the fence with the carpet. The rear is in great condition, front for obvious reasons is worn out. 
    There are things like the P clips I used in the engine bay for wiring. Most of them reused existing holes but most had to drilled larger to allow for nut inserts/rivet nuts to go in. I have no memory, of touching up the bare metal after enlarging these holes, although it’s something im sure i did, i took no record like photos of proof that i did. So i hope i did, or im sure ill start seeing minor surface rust. 
     
    there are things I will probably change in the future like the fuel supply line. The hose is fine, the way I’ve pinned it to the chassis could be better. 

    Otherwise I am just happy to have it back on the road, and now I can just enjoy it. 
     
    on the note of the wheels, i had a deep think about wheels for it about a week ago. 
     
    I look at my wagon with the 18” Snowflakes, and I can safely say I found “the wheel” for that car. You know, the wheel that just finishes the car off and suits the car better than any other option. 
     
    With the Escort, I haven’t found “that wheel” yet. 
    I love the 15s, for their lightweight design, the style and the look it gives the car, but they are 15s. 
    The RS 4 spokes look amazing when they are in good condition, mine have deteriorated and don’t have the appeal at the moment. I took them off because they were letting the rest of the car down. But when finances allow, ill have them professionally restored. 
     
    In the meantime, im going go a different path. I have a set of genuine ROH manufactured, Lotus Cortina 13 x 6 steel wheels. Their offset is approximately 10mm further proud than factory Escort offset, which is why I had the guards rolled. 
    I plan to have these cleaned up and powder coated in silver, and im hoping these will give the car a more aggressive, but period correct stance with the wide steelies. 
  12. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from 2redrovers in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    Could be points bounce, could be coil, could be vacuum leak, could be timing, could be old fuel, could be spark leads, could be i got no idea what I'm talking about.
    Let us know what ya find.....  Love this little Esky.
     
    ...........and this one too.!
     
     
     
  13. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from 2redrovers in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    Could be points bounce, could be coil, could be vacuum leak, could be timing, could be old fuel, could be spark leads, could be i got no idea what I'm talking about.
    Let us know what ya find.....  Love this little Esky.
     
    ...........and this one too.!
     
     
     
  14. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from deankxf in Panel Van Interior Builds   
    Would be way cool, and friggin' expensive, if you had 2 big ar$e flat screens on the sides, playing vast amount of stars moving sideways. Give you the feeling that your'e travelling through space. LMAO.
     
    Great work, mate. Should be proud of your achievements.  
  15. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from 2redrovers in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    Could be points bounce, could be coil, could be vacuum leak, could be timing, could be old fuel, could be spark leads, could be i got no idea what I'm talking about.
    Let us know what ya find.....  Love this little Esky.
     
    ...........and this one too.!
     
     
     
  16. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from deankxf in Panel Van Interior Builds   
    Would be way cool, and friggin' expensive, if you had 2 big ar$e flat screens on the sides, playing vast amount of stars moving sideways. Give you the feeling that your'e travelling through space. LMAO.
     
    Great work, mate. Should be proud of your achievements.  
  17. Cool
    bear351c reacted to Hawksam67 in Panel Van Interior Builds   
    Been through some changes since this photo.

     

  18. Like
    bear351c reacted to Thom in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    How old are the points? A lot of new points the spring is too soft letting the points float exactly the same way sometimes valve springs let the valves float, easiest way to check is if you have an old set that are usable throw them in and see if the problem disappears
  19. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in Timing cover lower seal, without rubber gasket?   
    Yeah, not convinced.   I did mine last year on the XA, absolute bitch to get the rubber seal in place, while holding the timing cover, lining up the dowel pins, etc..  I sanded off the small lip on the outside of the rubber, (made it thinner) and it went in easier. VERY clean is the key.!  Paint thinners or acetone to remove all oil residue. Silastics/sealants wont stick to oil. Also, aftermarket sumps don't fit the best, prefer old originals.
  20. Cool
    bear351c reacted to SPArKy_Dave in Help me find the right water temp sensor for my Falcon   
    TTS010, is XD/XE Cleveland - (XD/XE gauges use lower resistance senders)
    U need to run an XF temp sender, for the XF dash cluster
     
    I think around 60ohms, = mid-way on XF temp gauges, and 35ohms = Max/Hot
     
    Tridon TTS037 should be the one u need. (thread/post terminal)
    OR
    VDO 320.093 (OEM)
    OR
    FuelMiser CTS144
    Undo the thread adaptor from ur old sensor, and re-use it (Crossflow 1/8 - 27NPT to Cleveland 3/8 - 18NPT)
  21. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from SPArKy_Dave in Help me find the right water temp sensor for my Falcon   
    Dont worry too much about the fitting/terminal, just cut off the spade or whatever on your wiring, and solder on the correct terminal for the sender. Clevo temp sender usually goes in the front of the block, left hand side of the water pump. Sounds like you just need the sender to operate in a different range. @SPArKy_Dave Do you know what Ohms etc might suit..?
  22. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from deankxf in Recommendations for rear view mirror glue please.   
    Don't skimp on the cost, buy the Loctite product called literally "Rear view mirror glue" or whatever, It works every time.... Scrape the glass clean, use the primer in the pack, and clean the Ford plate thingy, put your sunvisors down and make sure they don't hit (make it central in other words).  Place the metal plate on the inside of the windscreen, get a mate/wife/girlfriend to mark the outside of the windscreen with a texta or marker. Prime both surfaces, dab on the glue, stick on, Robert's ya Fathers brother. 
     
    Don't heaps of these over the years, never fall off.
  23. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from deankxf in Recommendations for rear view mirror glue please.   
    Don't skimp on the cost, buy the Loctite product called literally "Rear view mirror glue" or whatever, It works every time.... Scrape the glass clean, use the primer in the pack, and clean the Ford plate thingy, put your sunvisors down and make sure they don't hit (make it central in other words).  Place the metal plate on the inside of the windscreen, get a mate/wife/girlfriend to mark the outside of the windscreen with a texta or marker. Prime both surfaces, dab on the glue, stick on, Robert's ya Fathers brother. 
     
    Don't heaps of these over the years, never fall off.
  24. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from SPArKy_Dave in Points ignition to electronic. Removal of ballast resistor.   
    Could well be. As Sparky Dave said, you need the Resistor coil, for anything with contact points. Doesn't matter if it's a "coke can" or a T -coil, as long as it has the R after the GT40. 
  25. Like
    bear351c got a reaction from SPArKy_Dave in Points ignition to electronic. Removal of ballast resistor.   
    Could well be. As Sparky Dave said, you need the Resistor coil, for anything with contact points. Doesn't matter if it's a "coke can" or a T -coil, as long as it has the R after the GT40. 
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