bear351c

Yeah, I use NGK BP5FS, just change them every 10,000.

Yep, what he said. ^ ^ ^

Yeah, I saw that too....... 1972.?

I remember the bulletin from FoMoCo about the TQ phenolic body cracking, when quenching the hot, dry LPG air with cool petrol. They voided all warranty if not removed. IIRC. Got my TQ from the FC sitting in the shed, all rebuilt and ready for the Nugget. Just a lazy bass turd. Good score there, Gerg. Looks well used.! Check throttle shaft play for sure.

You can recon the switches if you're keen. theres just a couple of tabs to bend, and it all comes apart. Clean the brass contacts and spray with CRC, NeptuneBlue does good work. Even if you fit the original, run a relay. Lights will be so much brighter.

Been a while since I've seen a Clevo in an XF or ZL, but, I would have thought by now that someone like CRS or Tuff Mounts would have a lowered/altered engine mount to suit. Still, a couple of love taps with a BFH on the firewall, and it fits.......

Yeah, I watch Richard Holdener every now and then. Like the way he documents everything. Agreed, it's a struggle to see what is "Factory" anymore, But a Windsor with Clevo heads is still an awesome thing to behold.

Although I'm pretty impressed, there ain't much Clevo left in that engine...

Oh ok, not sure then. Maybe spacer plates as you said. XY is about an inch or so shorter than an XA, (I think?)

Be warned........they ain't cheap.!! I rebuilt a couple, some parts are made of unobtainium, pistons are pricey, and specific (for XC/XD)

I would say, it's probably for the old style "wide" bearings. Dont think many people use them anymore, the side loads when cornering wore them out prematurely, I believe. Not 100% sure, The 9" s that I have used, shortened, fitted all had the thinner bearings, and standard axle plates.

Its semi return less, the reg is right near the tank and fuel pump and returns without going to the engine first Oh OK, I thought the Sniper had the reg on the throttle body.??

Nice. Been looking at the system, also Fitech, Edelbrock EFI. Did you plumb up a fuel tank return.??

Excellent info, as usual, Thom. Hadn't considered the serpentine scenario, might have to consider that on my 302. maybe a Holley Sniper...??

Go the CARBIES...!!! Just about to start on the same road. Stock heads are average, GT40 slightly better, and I've heard GT40p heads are the pick of the "cast" heads. AFR, CHI, Eddy, Trick Flow heads all flow way better, and produce more bang for your buck. (against spending 100 hours porting a cast head). Not 100% sure, on all the changes needed, @Thom is prob the goto guy here. Reckon you need to change manifolds, timing cover, fuel pump mount, at the least. You lurking Thom...??

Year of the block will be cast into a small pad behind the starter, on the block. Almost impossible to see with the starter in place. Will say something like 7H12, or similar. So, 1967 for the first number, H is August, 12th day.

The build date and the casting date are often different. The engine cast date eg: 9G5 simply states that the block was cast in the foundry that day. May have sat on the shelf for months before being shoved in a car, van, Fairmont or whatever. Unless the engine number is matching your VIN tags, and shock tower, theres no real value in getting one the exact date your car was made. ( Just remember black blocks have different size holes in them for distributor shaft.)

...and a longer steel fuel line, (goes in front of shock tower). Pretty sure the LTD/Fairlane have longer leaf springs as they are based on the station wagon platform, so they won't fit if you go leaf spring. 6 cyl rad from an XF will keep a Clevo cool with a stock fan, but MUST use a shroud and correct length fan spacer. Oh, and Welcome mate. Got any pics of the XE.?

@Thom

Maybe some aspiring business person can go to the 'States and bring back a container full of V8 5 speeds, out of a Mustang graveyard, would make a killing.....

Fuel. I'm guessing you mean 3/8". ?? 3/4" is about the size of a 10c coin.! Gearbox. Yeah, I'm still looking for one myself, crazy prices. Mal Wood has some Mustang ones for 5 grand..... Holy carp.

Good news Jim. I would just change the pushrods, if your camera shows no pitting on the cam lobes. If you replace the lifters, just go through normal cam break in procedure. Assembly lube, run at 1800-2500 for 20 mins, etc, etc, Let us know how ya get on.

Hi Jim, I think the rockers are just different year/model, that's all. (Same as 351 Cleveland I reckon) HT900 lifters are usually all thats required for a stock engine, but, my concern would be re-using the lifters. For the cost, I'd pull them all, keep them in order, and inspect carefully for damage. More concerned about the possible damage to the cam. Maybe drop the oil filter and check inside for metal filings/glitter. If all looks OK, I would change the pushrods and lifters. Did you run the shitty old petrol/gas in it.? Can cause varnish to build up on the valve stems, and hold valves open.

Welsh plug was probably butchered out with a cold chisel, and damaged the block, causing a leak. Easy to bore it out, nothing behind it, nothing next to it. No way Henry would fork out extra money for a bigger brass plug. He was a tight ar53. LOL.

$750 - $7500 for a Windsor. Everything else is easy, bit of wiring, extend the steel fuel line, etc. 6 cyl crossflow radiator in good nick will cool a 351 Clevo, with stock fan and shroud. ....and set some more money aside for tyres....