bear351c

Yep, Clevo king knows his 351's.

Products like Helicoil, or Recoil will fix it. You need to rethread (tap) the hole, and install a "coil" with the head bolt thread on the inner surface. Looks like a small spring.

Yeah, I ran a Carter electric on my 351 for years, had a kill switch in line as an anti theft device, as well.

WoW... Just ordered 2 kits last night........Freaky. One for the 170, and one for the 302.

Usually all fuel line is 90% hard tube. It stops the damage from tools, rocks, weather etc... You NEED a definite rubber connection because the engine rocks back and forth, and the chassis doesn't. There's typically a rubber line into the fuel sender, and one into the carb/fuel inlet. The square Facet pumps are a "push" pump, they need to be mounted as close to the fuel tank as practicable, not in the engine bay (where it has to "pull" fuel up).

Yep, you're right. The ballast resistor is for points ignition, and the old Coke can coil has a little "R" after the brand name/number. EG. GT40 or the GT40r. Can also get them in the epoxy filled coil range too. You need the GT40 style.

Trying to find XA/XB tramp rods will be expensive. The ones off an LTD (P5 etc) were slightly longer, and may be easier to find. Good luck with it. I'm thinking about the Watts link rear end into my XP, so watching with interest.

Could you run the chrome base and black top.?? Sort of mix and match....

That timing chain is a standard Morse chain. Multi link for maximum quiet. Multi keyed sprocket is for advancing/retarding the cam. Reckon that round corky is for under the oil filler cap. ??

Yeah, different manufacturers had different sizes of hex head. They used to sell a plug stamped OS, for "oversize", but haven't seen one for ages. Yours may have well been drilled and tapped the next size up, 'cos the thread was stripped, look up the sizes for Commodore/Kingswood or maybe British cars. Easy fix would be either a new sump or a helicoil. Cheaper to scrounge the wreckers for the next sized sump plug, I reckon.

Well, I'm farkin bored shirtless with the XP build, still haven't got rego, but, sat looking at the inline 6 doorstop on the pallet, and thought to myself, "...wonder what that looks like inside..." ..."wonder if it still runs.." ...... So, bit the bullet and started stripping it down. Should have taken more pics, but, wasn't planning to rebuild this thing, but, it may help with my rego (original style engine and all that). Seems like it's a 170 wide block, 3 freeze plugs, 4 mains, last oil change was done by Noah, after he finished servicing the Ark. The oil was so bad, that I actually picked up about 2 litres in my hand and placed it in the bin.! It was jelly. The oil pick up left a perfect imprint in it. ........and the smell was pure joy. The tower of power.. I KNOW...!!! Look at that single barrel throat size. Roughly the same diameter as a 20c coin. The valve train was absolutely disgusting. Thick, solid, burnt and dried out oil from the last century. I didn't get any photos, as I was just going to play with this little engine, and then use it to stop the door from banging in the wind. After spending approximately 3 hours with a stiff brush, some thinners, and 4 or 5 cold snacks, I got it resemble an engine again. Wish I had taken more pics of the gloop, it was the worst I've had to deal with. I've had stinky oil in a sump before, but never been able to pick it up in one piece... Pulled the timing cover off, nothing to see here, just a well worn Morse chain. Pulled the head off, they weigh a few kilos.! Checked all the cylinders after I dug the soot and carbon off the pistons. Stock cyl is 3.500" so, I reckon its a 60 thou overbore. Ooooh.....that piston doesn't look too good. Yeah, after a little Scotchbrite action, something has been having a game of pinball in there.... Pull the lifters out with a magnet they say, it'll be fine, they said....... 2 hours later, got 'em all out. Lots of Acetone to break the varnish, and some up and down workout, they slowly came free. Some of the jelly oil was wrapped around the centre section, but, thinners, Scotchy, numbered and set aside...... Where to now..??? Well, I'll pull the pistons, check for cyl scoring, ring condition, big end bearings, Mains etc and make a more informed decision on the refresh. It's not going to be a rebuild, as I'm not willing to buy pistons, lifters, pushrods etc... if it's junk, so be it. I'm going the Windsor route anyhows. If it's saveable, I'll give it a hone, new rings and bearings, and a set of gaskets, and see if it runs.! Might even stick it in the XP, and drive it around the block for sheets and giggles. Oh wait, got no wheels,....or suspension, or diff, or a single nut or bolt on the car. To be continued....

I'm no expert on ratio's, but with the extra gear in the 5 speed, I'd guess at 3.00 to 1. Anyone else.?? I'd be keen to find out myself, as I'm shoving a T5 in the XP......... ...one day.

Yeah, most guys ditched the 170 and went 200, 250 2V etc... Mine's an early block, only 4 mains, later units had 7. I guess if you're a purist and want a 170 Pursuit, but, that would be a REAL small customer market.

As Dean said, no probs. Don't even have to cut the brackets off if they don't interfere with anything, just weld the spring perches on. Make sure you get the pinion angle correct.

Yep, the exhaust valve is cracked. Needed to find my valve spring compressor, to be sure. Thought the valve just had a scratch on on the base, to go along with all the other damage, but, I cut up an old ring spanner and used a C-clamp, necessity is the mother an all that......... Valve is cactus......... But, on a good note, one of the sump pan bolts that was snapped off flush, has been persuaded to part company with the block. Good ole left handed drill bits.... Numbers are starting to add up, now. Full gasket set, mains, big ends, welshies, exhaust valve, rings, paint...... not sure its worth the effort. This was just a boredom project while I was babysitting the Corona virus, not sure the 170 is worth $300-400 to anyone. I thought I might have to stick it in the Hardtop (rego red tape in SA.......don't get me started) but She'll be V8 swapped anyways. Still would need to check the trans, diff, find some misc bolts, starter motor, radiator etc..... Prob think better when I'm back on the REAL Corona's......

So, after a coupla days on the couch with the Rona, I got back out into the shed, and finished stripping the big block 170. Crank out, cam out, wash and degrease, kissed the lifter bores with a brake hone, and ran the 3 prong hone down the cylinders. Angry face...!! Punched out the little welshy, found the last one behind it.! Cyl 3 looks like it had a water leak, or was just sitting for years with the valves open. Look at the dodgy castings from the Sixties.. Didn't even make it a SQUARE..! Held the gasket up and there ain't much you can do about this. The casting on the back is cut back at 45*, and you easily grind through, and 'cos this is a log manifold, the whole head then goes in the bin. All the bits, from the guts of the engine, set out with typical ADHD fashion... Cylinder 5 had a piece of piston ring, or a chipped valve, piece of gravel bouncing around inside. There's some damage to the piston, and the head. Nothing too serious. .......now to make a valve spring compressor.

Haven't got that far, mate. Still waiting on rego mob to approve my purchase. I did some research on the Sniper, it looks good, but, a lot of unhappy customers in the 'States. Modules failing etc, easy for them to get a replacement, maybe not so for us Aussies.

Cool. Sounds like my XP build. Got a 302 (1993? I think) Weiand carby manifold, T5 out of an ED 6 cyl,, and a Watts link from a EL XR6. Will be following with interest.

Yeah, mate.! 9.5 to 1.

Looks like cast iron from this shot.

Yeah, all good. Similar feel to bad Flu.

Cool. Forgot about that.

What a cool project. Love the first Eskies/Capri's. Did you look at reset leaf springs, or happy with lowering blocks.?

Cheers mate. Yeah, I actually looked at the Offy set up, but, this is just a refresh. So, rings and bearings and gaskets. I've never pulled a pre-crossy apart, to this extent, so now I can say i've pulled out the crank and cam, had a play around, and will rebuild it to stock. Not sure if I'll need this engine, (might need it for rego, then engine swap) SA motor reg can be "difficult" at times... Had to strip it down to see if it was more than just a boat anchor, and it looks like it's very rebuildable. Just needs some TLC. Stripped the oil pump, it's waaay worn, and I couldn't spin the rotors, so total strip, clean, lube with a sand down on the end plate, and packed it with grease. All was going sweet, now got Covid........ stuck indoors for a week. Ebay engine parts here we come..!

So, finally pulled the rest of the big block 170 apart. REALLY surprised to find the pistons are in excellent shape. The rings are worn, the bumpstick has pitting, and it looks like cylinder 3 has some staining in the bore, from a possible head gasket failure. Conrod big end bearings are 10 under, as are the Mains. The rings are well worn at approx 0.027" gap. I had to physically pull the oil control rings off with a pick, as they were stuck solid to the pistons. Soaked the pistons in some 98 pulp and gave them a quick clean. Will give the bores a lick with the hone, and see what they come up like. There is still a little cross hatch visible.