gerg

A couple of more pics i found on the net
 

Offenhouser still makes this

It bolts to the original carb location and you drill 2 more holes then clamp the ends down

I know someone who can do those sort of things, but I'm probably a bit far away

I'm sounding like a broken record now but.... Twin strommies for the win!

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I'm sounding like a broken record now but.... Twin strommies for the win!

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So, finally pulled the rest of the big block 170 apart. REALLY surprised to find the pistons are in excellent shape. The rings are worn, the bumpstick has pitting, and it looks like cylinder 3 has some staining in the bore, from a possible head gasket failure. 
 
 
Conrod big end bearings are 10 under, as are the Mains. 
 
 
The rings are well worn at approx 0.027" gap. I had to physically pull the oil control rings off with a pick, as they were stuck solid to the pistons. Soaked the pistons in some 98 pulp and gave them a quick clean. Will give the bores a lick with the hone, and see what they come up like. There is still a little cross hatch visible. 
 
 
 

You can mix and match the heads, but they did have different combustion chambers and valves for the different size engines, you couldn't put a 200 head on a 144 without notching the tops of the bore to clear if you were running a big cam etc, but when you get to xy-xb 200 and 250 they are slightly different animal to the earlier engines, they are both the same bore as each other and a taller deck height than the 144-221 engines, the xy-xb engines were all hydraulic cam and no adjustable rockers, all 144 and 170 up to xp were solid cam with adjustable rockers, most xp 200's were hydraulic cam but I have heard of the odd one having a solid cam, I'm not certain on the xr to xw engines as I haven't had much to do with them, xr still had 170 and 200 as engine options both were supposed to be hydraulic cam engines xt and xw the 170 grew to 188 cubes and the 200 grew to 221 these were the last engines that had the short water pump and they are the only true bolt in upgrade to an early falcon that doesn't require an engineer certificate, the xy and later engines (including crossflow) have a longer water pump and require the radiator to be moved forward, a deeper sump either requiring the engine to be spaced up or use xr/xt engine mounts that lift the engine so it doesn't hit the drag link on full lock, with the 200/250 xy-xb engines you can't use early falcon specific headers and the taller deck height makes the collector hit the floor, sorry i went on a bit of a tangent there

Hey I'm definitely NO expert on inline 6's, I've owned a couple, but, apart from pulling an iron head off an XD, (still have the hernia), was just told it was a wide block. Here's a couple more pics... got the "T" stamp on the breather tube boss, still haven't pulled the cam, or pistons out. 
 
 
 
The sludge and shite still needs cleaning off the bumpstick, before I pull it and damage the bearings.
 
 
 

Well, I'm farkin bored shirtless with the XP build, still haven't got rego, but, sat looking at the inline 6 doorstop on the pallet, and thought to myself, "...wonder what that looks like inside..." ..."wonder if it still runs.." ...... So, bit the bullet and started stripping it down. Should have taken more pics, but, wasn't planning to rebuild this thing, but, it may help with my rego (original style engine and all that).
Seems like it's a 170 wide block,  3 freeze plugs, 4 mains, last oil change was done by Noah, after he finished servicing the Ark. The oil was so bad, that I actually picked up about 2 litres in my hand and placed it in the bin.!  It was jelly.  The oil pick up left a perfect imprint in it. ........and the smell was pure joy. 
 
The tower of power..
 
I KNOW...!!!  Look at that single barrel throat size. Roughly the same diameter as a 20c coin. 
 
The valve train was absolutely disgusting. Thick, solid, burnt and dried out oil from the last century. I didn't get any photos, as I was just going to play with this little engine, and then use it to stop the door from banging in the wind. After spending approximately 3 hours with a stiff brush, some thinners, and 4 or 5 cold snacks, I got it resemble an engine again.
 
Wish I had taken more pics of the gloop, it was the worst I've had to deal with. I've had stinky oil in a sump before, but never been able to pick it up in one piece...
 
Pulled the timing cover off, nothing to see here, just a well worn Morse chain. Pulled the head off, they weigh a few kilos.!  Checked all the cylinders after I dug the soot and carbon off the pistons. 
 
 
Stock cyl is 3.500" so, I reckon its a 60 thou overbore. Ooooh.....that piston doesn't look too good.
 
 
Yeah, after a little Scotchbrite action, something has been having a game of pinball in there....
 
Pull the lifters out with a magnet they say, it'll be fine, they said.......  2 hours later, got 'em all out. Lots of Acetone to break the varnish, and some up and down workout, they slowly came free. 
Some of the jelly oil was wrapped around the centre section, but, thinners, Scotchy, numbered and set aside......
 
 
Where to now..???   Well, I'll pull the pistons, check for cyl scoring, ring condition, big end bearings, Mains etc and make a more informed decision on the refresh. It's not going to be a rebuild, as I'm not willing to buy pistons, lifters, pushrods etc... if it's junk, so be it. I'm going the Windsor route anyhows.  If it's saveable, I'll give it a hone, new rings and bearings, and a set of gaskets, and see if it runs.!   Might even stick it in the XP, and drive it around the block for sheets and giggles.  Oh wait, got no wheels,....or suspension, or diff, or a single nut or bolt on the car.  
 
To be continued....

There should be a little gap, on single groove valves. The multi groove don't have the gap so the valve can rotate.

In that photo of the pedestals, the one on the left doesn't look happy, like the head was dropped and landed on that. Is it still ok?

I would do the valve guides, if they're sloppy they'll flog the seats out and also cause oil consumption. For the little extra, it's worth doing right.

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also i read last night that my sump needs a police/cobra jet oil pump and pick up,as a std one has the wrong angle to fit,there is about 10 million different pumps and pick ups for the big block ,sumps as well.

yes i can picture it,nice black painted block n heads with arrrrr first snag gerg clevo covers dont fit 460,anyway back to the pipe dream,yeah blue 4.9 sticker on r.cover and air cleaner,std 460 steel covers would work,get em blasted and i still have xd xe silver met paint from last time,hmmm,just the last 2 days i have been chatting on the phone with a guy from nth america buying stuff off him in 1 bundle cause its hard and expensive buying 460 stuff here now,all he ever talks about is how much he wants a set of closed chamber 2vs lol.ok i swap ya a set of 2v closed for a set of 429 cobra jet irons.

Hey check this out a cobra jet 429 sump and used is $299 American I have the same frigging one that I got cleaned up and almost chucked it in the bin,the std sump has no tray.

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Yes it's the same sump,I'm stoked

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Doing a lot of research on the 429 cj/scj and they are a very rare engine these days ,as prices for these original factory parts are crazy even in the USA,heads are near non existence to buy I guess that's why so many just build a 460 with spruced up 460 heads so I had another look at my 73 heads and turns out they are the last of the decent ones to play with at 91 cc chamber anything after these are 97cc and if you can find early castings they have even smaller 70 odd cc size these are starting to look good my new valves should lob up next week.

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I reckon for shuts n giggles, dress it up like a stocker 4.9 with the silver rocker covers and air filter... See how many you can fool

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Pic

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That's very interesting .. The Victor Reinz gaskets are good .  Those I'd say are a very nice choice . I use the VR nitro seal I've found work great  .  
 
Please just stay well away from the Felpro print-o-seal (Black teflon gasket with blue beads) They are rubbish.  They are coated for easy removal but the teflon coating allows them to creep around between the smooth surfaces . Most then leak coolant @ the front 

Never seen a multi layer intake b4 ? But who cares it was cheap a new 460 tray is very expensive

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They come up smick with a blast.. well worth it if you ask me

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Let's have a look at these heads they look pretty good to me I have seen a lot worse.also scored a steel tray new off Facebook for less than half price

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I got the manifold heads back from sandblasting and they look good I even had time to paint the manifold ford dark blue

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Interesting 145LBS head bolts

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pic