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gerg

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  1. Like
    gerg reacted to hendrixhc in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    The ebay alloy radiators work fine. Ive had one in Lucy Lu for over 5 years without any issues.
  2. Like
    gerg reacted to Thom in Xf diff strength.   
    All e series from ea series 2 have 28 spline 4 pinion btr diffs, the diffs are pretty easy to fit to xe/xf if you do some mixing and matching of e and x series diff bushes, alternatively Nathan's precision machining in Ballarat makes up bushes for the swap, he's a member from this forum (don't think he's active on here any more but his business cand be found on Facebook) and has an xf with a turbo sohc 4.0 that runs 9's using an e series diff, he's successfully done a few drag and drives with the car so he'd be the person to talk to
  3. Like
    gerg reacted to BTS666 in Xf diff strength.   
    Yeah. Don't see them at the wreckers much anymore. I do recall a Volvo, called the lolvo, using the 8.8 behind a turbo ls motor. It broke other stuff but not the diff.

    Will just stick with what's cheaper and easiest.

    Was just curious and seeking info. Thanks mate.

    Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

  4. Like
    gerg got a reaction from BTS666 in Xf diff strength.   
    The 8.8, from what I understand, is a stout bit of gear, more than able to handle decent V8 torque and hard launches. The downside is that parts would be much harder to source here in Oz because of their limited use.

    My opinion: I think a properly built 4-pinion, 28 spline BW 78 diff would have ample capacity to handle what you're planning to build. Going over to a completely different axle and brake setup is just creating more headaches for compatibility and engineering/roadworthiness.

    Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk


  5. Like
    gerg reacted to Mr Polson in Xf diff strength.   
    Depends what you mean by "best".

    Late model Falcons with the ZF6 had 2.72 diff ratio, unless it was a XR6/XR8 etc.

    Tyre size will also contribute - my LandCruiser with the Barra and ZF6 has 4.11 diffs, but that combined with the 33" tyres means it sits at 2k rpm at 100km/h.
  6. Like
    gerg reacted to BTS666 in Xf diff strength.   
    Got a couple of supposedly decent diff builders in Rockhampton who do alot with the speedway cars, so hopefully one of the older guys will be able to help me.

    Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk


  7. Like
    gerg got a reaction from deankxf in Xf diff strength.   
    Hey Deano i've done stuff like that years ago, can't remember where it is.

    Generally, keeping to the same series of diff (ie 75 or 78) will ensure carriers and gears will interchange. For the shorter ratios, ie 2.92 and upwards, the housing will need to be 78 series.

    My 302 is still running a 2-pin, 25 spline and 3.08 gears from a commo. It's holding up ok but has seen better days. The axles are twisting a bit and the spider gears are getting noisy around corners. Housing was from an XG with solid rear rotors. My car is a wagon so ute stuff is what you use in the rear end (same floorpan).

    I have a 28 spline centre and axles to throw in it (using the 3.08 gears), when time permits.

    So to answer your question, yes you will need to upgrade to 28 spline internals and axles. A 25 spline limo will not live a happy and prosperous life behind anything more than a stock 6.

    Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk


  8. Like
    gerg got a reaction from deankxf in 250 xflow dyno charts   
    You will always make more from an OHC over a Crossy for the same kind of work done. Conversely, it would take more money and effort to get a Crossy to perform as well as an OHC.

    Stock carby Crossy made 92kW
    XF EFI - 120kW
    EA 3.9 - 139kW
    EB XR6 - 161Kw
    ED 4.0 - 148kW
    EF 4.0 - 157kW
    AU 4.0 -157kW
    AU VCT - 172kW

    So even going with the least powerful of the OHC motors is a huge step up from even the best of the 4.1 crossflow.

    That said, I have big respect for the old crossflow 6. You would treat them like a small-bore, long-stroke, inline 6 version of a Cleveland. They take the same rockers, valve springs, share the same valve layout and combustion chamber design.

    Good manifolds are expensive and getting hard to find. The EFI one is ok for stock power, but you'll hit a ceiling pretty quickly as the runners and plenum aren't terribly huge.

    In my research on here over the years, it seems like at around 200rwhp, serious work needs to be done to squeeze any more than that out of it.

    Folks on here have gotten 250, 300 even, but that's getting wild and not really a street engine any more.

    You can't get much bigger valves in there, so you need to go bigger with the cam. You're pretty much limited to flat-tappet unless you spend up big on a custom roller setup.

    Porting is a black art on these, as really the only gains come from opening it up more. On a clevo, especially 2Vs, you can gain big just by tidying up all the dags and ridges they come with, but with the Crossy you're already starting with a pretty nicely shaped port, it's just a bit small.

    OHC motors can be hopped up too, but they also have their limitations, mainly in cam lift and spring pressure. Too much of either will break the standard rockers and aftermarket ones don't really exist except for custom ones. Jim Mock Motorsports had the gun camshafts for these a while ago, dunno if they're still going.

    Hope this rant helps

    Gerg

    Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk


  9. Like
    gerg got a reaction from deankxf in 250 xflow dyno charts   
    You will always make more from an OHC over a Crossy for the same kind of work done. Conversely, it would take more money and effort to get a Crossy to perform as well as an OHC.

    Stock carby Crossy made 92kW
    XF EFI - 120kW
    EA 3.9 - 139kW
    EB XR6 - 161Kw
    ED 4.0 - 148kW
    EF 4.0 - 157kW
    AU 4.0 -157kW
    AU VCT - 172kW

    So even going with the least powerful of the OHC motors is a huge step up from even the best of the 4.1 crossflow.

    That said, I have big respect for the old crossflow 6. You would treat them like a small-bore, long-stroke, inline 6 version of a Cleveland. They take the same rockers, valve springs, share the same valve layout and combustion chamber design.

    Good manifolds are expensive and getting hard to find. The EFI one is ok for stock power, but you'll hit a ceiling pretty quickly as the runners and plenum aren't terribly huge.

    In my research on here over the years, it seems like at around 200rwhp, serious work needs to be done to squeeze any more than that out of it.

    Folks on here have gotten 250, 300 even, but that's getting wild and not really a street engine any more.

    You can't get much bigger valves in there, so you need to go bigger with the cam. You're pretty much limited to flat-tappet unless you spend up big on a custom roller setup.

    Porting is a black art on these, as really the only gains come from opening it up more. On a clevo, especially 2Vs, you can gain big just by tidying up all the dags and ridges they come with, but with the Crossy you're already starting with a pretty nicely shaped port, it's just a bit small.

    OHC motors can be hopped up too, but they also have their limitations, mainly in cam lift and spring pressure. Too much of either will break the standard rockers and aftermarket ones don't really exist except for custom ones. Jim Mock Motorsports had the gun camshafts for these a while ago, dunno if they're still going.

    Hope this rant helps

    Gerg

    Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk


  10. Like
    gerg got a reaction from deankxf in Xf diff strength.   
    Hey Deano i've done stuff like that years ago, can't remember where it is.

    Generally, keeping to the same series of diff (ie 75 or 78) will ensure carriers and gears will interchange. For the shorter ratios, ie 2.92 and upwards, the housing will need to be 78 series.

    My 302 is still running a 2-pin, 25 spline and 3.08 gears from a commo. It's holding up ok but has seen better days. The axles are twisting a bit and the spider gears are getting noisy around corners. Housing was from an XG with solid rear rotors. My car is a wagon so ute stuff is what you use in the rear end (same floorpan).

    I have a 28 spline centre and axles to throw in it (using the 3.08 gears), when time permits.

    So to answer your question, yes you will need to upgrade to 28 spline internals and axles. A 25 spline limo will not live a happy and prosperous life behind anything more than a stock 6.

    Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk


  11. Like
    gerg reacted to deankxf in Xf diff strength.   
    there's possibly threads By @gerg regarding fitting 28 spline stuff to the 25 spline axles, but generally you'd just fit an EB ED EF EL diff (EF EL had the hand brake inside the disc but very much the same diff, probably more differences) 
    the EB diff has a wider bush for the lower trailing arm, fit that (better) on one end of your XF trailing arms or if you get the EB ones, fit an XF one at the front and it will bolt in.
    some of the later diffs have adjustable pinion angle (2 sets of top trailing arm mounts, assume for lowered XR6  possible EB GT etc) i've had one and it was from a basic falcon but it wasn't in another so there's no definite finding source. 
  12. Cool
    gerg got a reaction from deankxf in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK   
    Lol been in the wilderness a bit of late. Still here, not much to report.
     
    Nice to get a shout-out guys, cheers
     
    Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
     
     
     
     
  13. Cool
    gerg got a reaction from deankxf in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK   
    Lol been in the wilderness a bit of late. Still here, not much to report.
     
    Nice to get a shout-out guys, cheers
     
    Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
     
     
     
     
  14. Cool
    gerg got a reaction from deankxf in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK   
    Lol been in the wilderness a bit of late. Still here, not much to report.
     
    Nice to get a shout-out guys, cheers
     
    Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
     
     
     
     
  15. Like
    gerg got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK   
    I don't think it will be mate, it's torque that kills gearboxes, not horsepower. And big blocks are known for having cubic amounts of low end torque

    Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk


  16. Haha
    gerg got a reaction from Searley in Bob Krogdahl - Twin Cam Crossflow and OHC Falcon heads   
    With the price that Aussiespeed like to charge for everything, you'd think they could afford it all
  17. Haha
    gerg got a reaction from Searley in Bob Krogdahl - Twin Cam Crossflow and OHC Falcon heads   
    Revs to 10 grand... Pfffft only if it's 1.5 litres and built by Yamaha. Who would pay 65 Gs for an extremely rare engine then try and rev it to 10 grand anyway?
  18. Wow
    gerg got a reaction from Searley in Bob Krogdahl - Twin Cam Crossflow and OHC Falcon heads   
    Looks like it's loosely based on a Jag 6 head, sounds the goods. I'd pay that much even now for that, sounds like a good price to me. Uncanny how Ford and Holden 6s shared bore spacing and head bolt location. I've seen a Red motor with an alloy crossy head adapted to it.
  19. Like
    gerg got a reaction from FAT_LANE in Holley Spreadbore 650 double pumper   
    First drive impressions: pretty good for an old dunga. My dad brain made the mistake of buying 57s jets... The ones that came in it were 57s too. In any case, it surged on light throttle so that told me that 57s are lean. So, I swapped in some 59s I had.

    The secondaries were also way lean at 67 (wrong on a non-power valve block) so went right up to an 89 drill on some jets I didn't want. Apparently 87 is the correct secondary jet for this carby, so not far off. If it had a power valve in the secondary, you would subtract 8-10 jet sizes to get the right mixture under load.

    I don't see the point in running a power valve in the secondary, you're always under power whenever they're open, so the power valve will always be open under load or closed when the secondaries are shut. Blanking it off and jetting up to compensate is the go I reckon. Less failure points to worry about.

    Just got back from a test n tune, it has woken her up a bit, feels more lively than the street demon, but has sacrificed a little bit of bottom end torque and smoothness (probably from having older design boosters).

    You can still feel a little bit of leanness when accelerating moderately, in that once the pump shot is done, the power drops off a tad. Still might need more jet but I'm happy with the WOT performance.

    Now to see if it guzzles the juice or is somehow actually better than the street demon.

    Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk


  20. Like
    gerg got a reaction from Glenroy in CLEVELAND AIR CLEANERS   
    Fuck yeah... that's Starsky & Hutch material right there

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk


  21. Like
    gerg got a reaction from Glenroy in 351 2V CLOSED CHAMBER BUILD   
    Good choice in parts thus far. I would at minimum, clean up the ports on the 2Vs as they can be pretty terrible in the casting. I did that on mine and despite only having only about 3 hours in them, I would guess that they're easily 10% better in flow. A properly cleaned up set of iron 2Vs should be good for 400hp.

    Before getting them skimmed, determine what compression you want to run (thus chamber size) and pistons (stock rebuilders or good zero deck ones). The compression number hinges on what cam you are running by figuring out what dynamic compression you actually will have. I have said for a long time, pick your camshaft and build the engine around it.

    Upgrade valve springs to suit cam specs, get heads done up and guides machined to suit press-on seals. Up to you if you get the rocker pedestals machined to suit stud mounted rockers, it does allow a bigger selection of rockers but there are decent pedestal mounted ones out there, namely Yella Terra and Scorpion. Stock steel rockers aren't a deal-breaker, they just work the oil harder and can't deal with much above 0.500" lift and/or high spring pressure.

    Many folks on here have had good results with the Comp 268 and 274 cams, but for any cam aim for around the 220 mark at 0.050" give or take. I would save up for a retro roller cam in that range only because I've wiped 2 flat tappet cams on my clevo in less than 100,000 km. It's getting harder to find good oil to suit flat tappet cams now.

    Your inlet manifold can be the stock iron 4 barrel, but if you can stretch to an Edelbrock air gap that would be a no-brainer. The other good name manifolds are probably only slightly better than the stock one (which isnt bad) but you'll save a lot of weight up top using them. Don't use cheap Chinese ones. They are poorly made clones and they rob the original designers of their hard work. Their cylinder balance will also be poor.

    Using the hotrodder's rule for carbys, take target HP and double it to get the CFM you need. So either a 750 vac or pumper will be perfect. These are said to be the sweet spot for size in a square bore carby.

    4-into-one headers are obviously ideal but are a tight squeeze in an earlier narrow chassis. Tri-Ys are a good compromise between stock manifolds and proper tuned length 4-1s.

    1 horse per cube shouldn't be too hard in this day and age. If you do get it chassis dynoed though, don't be too disappointed by the figures. My 302 gets along ok but didn't even crack 200 hp. I know my cam is drastically holding it back for top-end power but I like the low and midrange it has.

    Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk


  22. Like
    gerg reacted to Slow250XC in Removing sump with engine in car???   
    Have done my xc a couple of times in the past. Undo engine mounts, remove swaybar, jack up engine far enough to fit some bits of 2x4 under each engine mount, sump comes out with a bit of a twist and wiggle.

    Prick of a job tbh.
  23. Like
    gerg reacted to User01 in Crossflow rear main seal.   
    Man, I did look at this exact thing when looking up parts numbers. I suspected that this might be possible but I couldn't find someone with another knowledge to be ale to confirm this. I do like this route as it feels like it would be a lot more forgiving for backyard mechanics like me.
     
     
    hmmm, Bursons didn't even give me the option of genuine ford. I wonder if a ford dealer could track this down for me, or who the manufacturer of the genuine one is. 
     
     
    We'll there you go, something I missed. Mine is a graphite impregnated rope seal and was very rigid out of the packet. Not one video I watched mentioned oil bathing the graphite rope seals, and neither did it make sense to me that it would be needed (given the graphite). I have to pull the crank again anyway so I am going to have a play with this and see if I can make it fit better so that I know what I did was wrong. I think either genuine ford or possibly or even solid two piece from a Windsor will be the end fix. 
     
    First time around I completely assembled the bottom end and was in the torqueing sequence for mains and concord caps before I realised I had messed up (I couldn't rotate the engine to torque down some of the conrod caps). I guess these are the things you learn the hard way when you have no qualified training and start messing with things before to your time.   

    Thank you all very much for your input. I'll let you know how I fair and what ends up doing the trick for me.
  24. Like
    gerg reacted to motoSycho in Crossflow rear main seal.   
    I used one of these instead of the rope seal when I built mine.
     
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FELPRO-REAR-MAIN-OIL-SEAL-FORD-WINDSOR-289-302-PREMIUM-HIGH-VACUUM-FE2901/361379952955
     
  25. Like
    gerg reacted to napolian_was in cleveland T5 conversion using single rail bellhousing (step by step)   
    i wouldnt have done this write up with out you gerg, i read your write up a couple of years ago and that got me interested in the swap.
     
    yes that 2-3 shift is a tricky one 1-3 gates are very close and i find im trying to push it between 3 and 5 but something im getting use to. i feel like you've got to push straight forward for the 2-3 shift and the single rail you follow the H and come toward your self.  
     
    i'm liking the short 1st more as well, car parks and my drive way are now easier to navigate coming from a 2.82 1st. as well as when doing a full throttle run from a stand still it easy to get off the line but you've still got enough time to grab 2nd before red line.
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