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gerg

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Everything posted by gerg

  1. gerg

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Yep +1 on this. I could have bought 3 of them for how much it would cost to re-core my factory one Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    Xf diff strength.

    The 8.8, from what I understand, is a stout bit of gear, more than able to handle decent V8 torque and hard launches. The downside is that parts would be much harder to source here in Oz because of their limited use. My opinion: I think a properly built 4-pinion, 28 spline BW 78 diff would have ample capacity to handle what you're planning to build. Going over to a completely different axle and brake setup is just creating more headaches for compatibility and engineering/roadworthiness. Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    250 xflow dyno charts

    You could bolt a 4.0 from an XG in there using standard components, which the engineer will much prefer. You may be limited to a log intake vs the dual length (EF onwards) one due to spring tower clearance. Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    Xf diff strength.

    Hey Deano i've done stuff like that years ago, can't remember where it is. Generally, keeping to the same series of diff (ie 75 or 78) will ensure carriers and gears will interchange. For the shorter ratios, ie 2.92 and upwards, the housing will need to be 78 series. My 302 is still running a 2-pin, 25 spline and 3.08 gears from a commo. It's holding up ok but has seen better days. The axles are twisting a bit and the spider gears are getting noisy around corners. Housing was from an XG with solid rear rotors. My car is a wagon so ute stuff is what you use in the rear end (same floorpan). I have a 28 spline centre and axles to throw in it (using the 3.08 gears), when time permits. So to answer your question, yes you will need to upgrade to 28 spline internals and axles. A 25 spline limo will not live a happy and prosperous life behind anything more than a stock 6. Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    250 xflow dyno charts

    You will always make more from an OHC over a Crossy for the same kind of work done. Conversely, it would take more money and effort to get a Crossy to perform as well as an OHC. Stock carby Crossy made 92kW XF EFI - 120kW EA 3.9 - 139kW EB XR6 - 161Kw ED 4.0 - 148kW EF 4.0 - 157kW AU 4.0 -157kW AU VCT - 172kW So even going with the least powerful of the OHC motors is a huge step up from even the best of the 4.1 crossflow. That said, I have big respect for the old crossflow 6. You would treat them like a small-bore, long-stroke, inline 6 version of a Cleveland. They take the same rockers, valve springs, share the same valve layout and combustion chamber design. Good manifolds are expensive and getting hard to find. The EFI one is ok for stock power, but you'll hit a ceiling pretty quickly as the runners and plenum aren't terribly huge. In my research on here over the years, it seems like at around 200rwhp, serious work needs to be done to squeeze any more than that out of it. Folks on here have gotten 250, 300 even, but that's getting wild and not really a street engine any more. You can't get much bigger valves in there, so you need to go bigger with the cam. You're pretty much limited to flat-tappet unless you spend up big on a custom roller setup. Porting is a black art on these, as really the only gains come from opening it up more. On a clevo, especially 2Vs, you can gain big just by tidying up all the dags and ridges they come with, but with the Crossy you're already starting with a pretty nicely shaped port, it's just a bit small. OHC motors can be hopped up too, but they also have their limitations, mainly in cam lift and spring pressure. Too much of either will break the standard rockers and aftermarket ones don't really exist except for custom ones. Jim Mock Motorsports had the gun camshafts for these a while ago, dunno if they're still going. Hope this rant helps Gerg Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Lol been in the wilderness a bit of late. Still here, not much to report. Nice to get a shout-out guys, cheers [emoji41][emoji117] Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  7. Ok after putting up with power steer fluid on my driveway (and on the parking spot at work) for too long, I finally ripped the box out and decided to put a seal kit through it. I haven't done one before, so this will be a tutorial on the fly (I will be learning as we go). V8s are a right pain to do, you have to pull out the starter then either jack up the engine (what I did) or pull the RH extractors off to physically remove the box. The Pitman Arm was buggered (sloppy ball joint), so I needed heat and a puller to remove it. Initially, I wanted to save the arm and try and gently heat it with a heat gun to get it to pop. Put some force on it with a hydraulic puller and that launched itself into the wall behind my bench. So I leant down to pick it up, and didn't watch where my hand was going. It landed straight on the tip of the heat gun I was just using. This is the result: This is 3 days later. So first casualty and all i've done is strip the one box plus a spare. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg

    Trickflow vs 3v heads

    I'm not 100% certain, but Trick Flows would likely use the stock 2V port location, whereas 3Vs are a high-port that need their own CHI manifold. Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    Removing sump with engine in car???

    I did mine on my V8, but 6s might be a whole different ballgame. The oil pickup could well be a pain, may need to remove that with sump dropped to remove completely. If you still have the gearbox off, it would make it much easier to juggle the engine around inside the bay. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    Crossflow rear main seal.

    Note that when I mentioned the graphite type being soft, it's only because I've used that stuff on some plant equipment (not engine) so it may have just been a generic type not suited to crankshafts. I think your application most relates with the Holden video. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg

    Crossflow rear main seal.

    In my nearly 30 years of doing the mechanic thing, I haven't had the pleasure of doing a crank rope seal. I do understand that they need soaking in oil, softening up and lubing before installation, and cutting to length in a way that provides a certain amount of crush. The correct process is quite involved and lengthy. I found this video on a Holden V8 on YouTube. Not sure if your seal is the hard type or the soft graphite one I have sometimes seen. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  12. Oh glad it was of use to you mate. Just seeing others do what you set out to do makes you see that it's doable, so you're more able to overcome whatever hurdles. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg

    sohc into xf

    I'd be interested to see if you can get the BTR to give firmer shifts along with more rpm on board, also if there's an ignition cut/retard function on upshifts like BAs seem to have (or is that drive-by-wire throttle dipping) to reduce the "thump" you get with the upshift, and to speed up the shift without flaring or slipping. I also wonder if any automatic shops out there that rebuild these have come up with a fix for the over-run clutch issue, where they let go at anywhere between 150 and 200k and from there you get zero engine braking (straight to idle). Even manual shifting makes no difference. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    I don't think it will be mate, it's torque that kills gearboxes, not horsepower. And big blocks are known for having cubic amounts of low end torque Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  15. Nice write-up... It's uncanny how similar your swap is to mine, with the following differences: * My engine's a mild 302C * I used a Toploader bellhousing and made up a slave cylinder mounting bracket (it was for an F-truck mechanical clutch with no slave). * I filled the old bolt holes with cut off bolts and silver soldered them in, and the top T5 mount bolts are M12 wheel studs soldered into the bellhousing. Bottom ones are just drilled and tapped. The mount face on a toploader bell extends far enough down for the standard T5 lower bolts to meet, hence the reason for choosing the toploader one. * I originally had 3.27 gears (from an XG ute) but went over to 3.08s when I redid my diff. It sits on about 2000 doing 90. The T5 is from my old EA so 5th is 0.78 and 1st is 3.50. like you said, it's a bit short but on the plus side, doesn't need too much clutch slip to get going. * I used an EL wagon alloy tailshaft as it's the right length and was 30 bucks. * I eventually went to a 3/4" trailer-type master cylinder and a Jaguar 7/8” slave, the master previously swapped because I'd already chewed out 3 of the standard 5/8” ones and got sick of being stranded. You can pick up a trailer master cylinder at any parts store, so I'm covered there. The Jag slave was to get the bore ratios back closer to standard (clutch was very heavy with the 1:1 ratio). * I'd previously made my shifter into a short-shift by spacing up the pivot plate and extending the ball pivot by the same amount. I also made a new stick out of some water pipe, put some bends in it to point it more toward the driver and solid-mounted it to the lower part, eliminating the slop in the rubber bushes they come with. * My mileage didn't really change much from the single rail, maybe by 1L/100 km but the biggest change came from doing up a 650 spreadbore pumper for economy. It's an outstanding street carby, it's the 4th one I've had on it and is the best. I'm now getting 15L/100 fairly consistently, with lovely low speed smoothness yet no need for a choke in winter. I can't say I'm a huge fan of the T5, it's nowhere near as nice to shift as a tight single rail, and the 2-3 shift under power is always baulky and leaves you fumbling. I have a write-up on my install somewhere on here, starting from about 8 years ago. Anyway nice work mate, hope it makes a difference for you. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  16. gerg

    Fuel Consumpiton High

    Could be a sooted O2 sensor, you can sometimes revive them by removing and dunking the tip in lemon juice overnight. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  17. gerg

    Fuel pump - mechanical vs electric?

    I was sus about the mechanical one for a while, it seemed a bit flimsy and had trouble sealing on the flares. When I did my power steer pump install, I custom-mounted it with my own brackets and the tensioner bolt runs off a blanking plate where the fuel pump was. So I was kinda forced to go to an electric one anyway. I like the one in it now, going strong thus far. I can disable it by pulling a fuse or connector as an extra thief-deterrent. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  18. gerg

    Fuel pump - mechanical vs electric?

    I can vouch 100% for the facet pump thing. I initially mounted mine in the engine bay, but with it having to suck fuel up from the back, plus through a couple of feet of head, it was noisy as fck. It was basically cavitating and not pumping sufficiently to feed enough fuel. It needed a boat fuel primer bulb inline to initially prime it too. I then moved it into the spare tyre well just above the tank, and that worked and was much quieter, but it was a pain if I had to get access to it (it started screwing up by then). It would get going again with a smack, but it was getting quite hot. I finally mounted it below the passenger floor, just where there's a hose junction between the steel pipes. It's audible with engine off, but being low-mounted, it's always being gravity-fed. The genuine Facet pump finally shit itself spectacularly on the way to the beach, and I gave up trying to pull it down and keep it alive after 3 times it had stopped. I Uber-ed it (with my kids) to an Auto One where I got a chinese-made Goss unit for 50 bucks.l, fitted it on the side of the road, and continued to the beach. I then read up about these Facet pumps and there seems to have been a bad batch 5-10 years ago, which sucks because I deliberately went with a more expensive US made unit and dodged the Chinese versions, just for the reliability. The Goss has been going fine for a couple of years now, much better than the "US-made" Facet. It's still mounted under the passenger footwell. At 50 bucks (probably more now though), I might just buy a spare to keep in the car. Re: the steel tubing for fuel line... I suspect that not only is it more durable, but probably cheaper to make and less clamping is needed to mount it under the chassis. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  19. gerg

    Crossflow street build

    Ok at least the diff centre can be swapped for 28s if need be. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  20. gerg

    Crossflow street build

    Gcday mate, that all sounds pretty stout, cam is quite wild at 238/244 (0.050"), 109 lobe but lift is sensible at 0.560/0.570. You will need some serious valvesprings (say 140 on the seat) and retainers to go with that, I would look into what beehive springs you could use (LS type perhaps), single groove valves and collets would be a good idea too. I would get the crank, rods, pistons, balancer and flywheel all balanced as that combo will be a high rpm one that will show up any wonky bits on a long-stroker like that. Run those cam specs through a dynamic comp calculator and aim to reach low-to-mid 8s, my guess is that you'll likely need to be at around 11:1 static. If/how much you need to shave it will depend on what head you're running and what size chamber. I would expect the HP to be around the mid-200s, which is double what the factory motor had. One last thing... 25 spline axles aren't very strong. My mild 302/T5 XE wagon has started twisting the axles, and they're 25s. I have a 28 centre and axles ready to go in when time permits. I remember my TF Corty originally having the tiny Sigma BW type diff (6.5" crown I believe) and while I didn't blow it, it was badly worn and I replaced it with an earlier TE one that had the Falcon 7.8" gears. That would have been a 25 spline but it wasn't a built engine though, fairly mild. I would recommend a 28 centre with cut-down Pintara axles re-drilled for Corty stud pattern. 3.45 gears are easy to find, I even have a spare set myself. You didn't specify what model your Corty is, but I gave a heads-up anyway. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  21. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Big blocks are cheap horsepower but heavy. Strokers get it done with much less weight but the bits are expensive, only the block basically remains, everything else is turfed for new bits Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  22. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    You could get some aftermarket 4-bolt caps but they only do the middle 3 on Clevos and big blocks from memory. You still have to line bore them to get them true to the mains tunnel Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  23. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    I haven't read much about the Lima motor, do they have the same rods between 429 and 460, or do they change piston pin heights? Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  24. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    There are still a lot of used but rebuildable 302 heads kicking around, can be had for not much. Still, in the States their aftermarket alloys are a lot cheaper than ours, and rebuilding factory iron 2Vs would be less and less feasible for HP per dollar. If he insists on getting hold of some, maybe you could strike a deal with him? Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  25. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Yeah mate I think you're right about the different gasket set, the big one with two holes looks like a throttle body gasket (they had twins from memory). Dunno what the cork one is, never seen or worked on one to know. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
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