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Looks like a very light tidy up, only taking off sharp edges around the bowl, short turn and guide. Still, an improvement on stock for sure. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

David Vizard has been a prominent author of performance books since the 70s and is a successful race engine builder and performance guru. He's been around since before aftermarket parts were a thing so knows how to squeeze every last bit of performance out of factory parts while at minimal cost. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Vizard did an episode on valve shrouding and it's interesting to see his view on it. He takes the bare minimum to achieve the results and no more. It's all in where you remove metal and not how much Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I am happy to take messages, but I'm on Tapatalk (phone) so dunno if website messages come through. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think the 4V issue is on the inlet, not exhaust side. Plenty have done that though, so maybe even that's not an issue as such, but maybe considered just not worth it? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That cam will be pretty lumpy but with your short gearing and relatively light car, it won't bog down like it would in some thing heavier with highway gearing. Just don't expect the car to be comfortable at highway speeds as you'll be sitting at around 3500rpm or so. There is a calculator on the Wallace Racing site that does dynamic compression, but a ballpark figure for a 351 closed chamber would be 11:1 aiming for a dynamic of 8:1 after cam specs are entered. 8.5:1 can be used if running a fully programmable ignition to stay on top of the pinging issue. http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Good choice in parts thus far. I would at minimum, clean up the ports on the 2Vs as they can be pretty terrible in the casting. I did that on mine and despite only having only about 3 hours in them, I would guess that they're easily 10% better in flow. A properly cleaned up set of iron 2Vs should be good for 400hp. Before getting them skimmed, determine what compression you want to run (thus chamber size) and pistons (stock rebuilders or good zero deck ones). The compression number hinges on what cam you are running by figuring out what dynamic compression you actually will have. I have said for a long time, pick your camshaft and build the engine around it. Upgrade valve springs to suit cam specs, get heads done up and guides machined to suit press-on seals. Up to you if you get the rocker pedestals machined to suit stud mounted rockers, it does allow a bigger selection of rockers but there are decent pedestal mounted ones out there, namely Yella Terra and Scorpion. Stock steel rockers aren't a deal-breaker, they just work the oil harder and can't deal with much above 0.500" lift and/or high spring pressure. Many folks on here have had good results with the Comp 268 and 274 cams, but for any cam aim for around the 220 mark at 0.050" give or take. I would save up for a retro roller cam in that range only because I've wiped 2 flat tappet cams on my clevo in less than 100,000 km. It's getting harder to find good oil to suit flat tappet cams now. Your inlet manifold can be the stock iron 4 barrel, but if you can stretch to an Edelbrock air gap that would be a no-brainer. The other good name manifolds are probably only slightly better than the stock one (which isnt bad) but you'll save a lot of weight up top using them. Don't use cheap Chinese ones. They are poorly made clones and they rob the original designers of their hard work. Their cylinder balance will also be poor. Using the hotrodder's rule for carbys, take target HP and double it to get the CFM you need. So either a 750 vac or pumper will be perfect. These are said to be the sweet spot for size in a square bore carby. 4-into-one headers are obviously ideal but are a tight squeeze in an earlier narrow chassis. Tri-Ys are a good compromise between stock manifolds and proper tuned length 4-1s. 1 horse per cube shouldn't be too hard in this day and age. If you do get it chassis dynoed though, don't be too disappointed by the figures. My 302 gets along ok but didn't even crack 200 hp. I know my cam is drastically holding it back for top-end power but I like the low and midrange it has. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I would go NGK BP4FS, as as I have used 5s in the past and they ended up fouling. Just a heads-up, the MSD will chew through them pretty quickly. I wouldn't expect more than 20k out of a set. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I thought that XC run of pillows was an experimental batch, hence the "XE" prefix. Or was that only for the ones destined for NASCAR use? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Tapatalk is a forum hosting app on your phone or (maybe) computer... Anyway, the pic you emailed: Those are adjustable at the pushrod end, meaning they might not have been adjusted right but if this engine hasn't been run yet, the lifters will be empty of oil so the free play you are witnessing is the light pressure that the lifter preload spring provides. If there is no light pressure and the rocker is freely flopping back and forth, the initial adjustment procedure should be followed. I would do it by backing off the locknut on each one, rotate the engine around to TDC compression on each cylinder you're doing and wind the Allen key adjuster in till it just contacts the pushrod. Then go 3/4 of a turn in to achieve lifter preload. Lock the nut at that setting and move to the next. Repeat process in firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 till all are done. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

You can post pics either through Photobucket or sign up to Tapatalk and access the forum through that, and it also enables pics to be sent along with the message. That's the one I use. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

A bloke is selling a clevo on FB for 12.5k, sounds like not a bad deal (CHI 4V heads) except the block is punched out 30 and the parts are used. It still looks new but may have a bit of run time. In the pics it shows (as he claims) it's a pillow block, but a D2. I didn't know they made them that early. Can anyone confirm when the pillow block became a thing? I thought it was a late 70s NASCAR thing https://m.facebook.com/groups/1533658606896488/permalink/3010996045829396/ Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Is it a case of the rockers coming loose, or your lifters collapsing/wearing out? Are your lifters bolt-on pedestal or adjustable stud-mounted? Are the rockers also adjustable at the pushrod end? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I was going to suggest silicone spray, as it's fairly inert once the solvent evaporates and is invisible. I have successfully freed up BA Falcon belts where they gum up with skin oil (especially with smokers) in the top eye and don't retract. I'm not 100% sure about the older mechanisms, but the newer ones have a little ball bearing on a cam that wedge together when the belt is pulled quickly. If there's gummy crap or dried/dusty residue in there, it could be why it has no locking action. My suggestion is the same as yours, wash in warm, soapy water but lightly lube the mechanism with said silicone. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That will be a sweet engine, but I think your machine shop guy is going to have a little chat to you about giving it some extra berries seeing as you say the block is something special, it can defs handle it. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think this will have the kahoonas to pull from idle even with a cam. Stock, nice and tight converter is the go I reckon Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Depending on your level of fab skills, you can cut and shut your own out of an EA CFI manifold, which was what some clued-up speedway racers used to use when there was nothing else around. Still only 2 barrel though, and maybe Weber pattern (not 100% on that) or close at least. I can only imagine how hard it is over there, it seems hard enough here with all the old models being much harder to find bits for now. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think your combo will get pretty close to that, going by that cam spec. They're just an engine, they respond like any other engine does if not doing a full-tilt build. Only then would you need specific knowledge on how to squeeze the absolute most out of it. They're nice and simple with not many traps to fall into. On a mid-level build such as this, you have good enough bits to have a very sweet engine. I'd say that the biggest thing holding them back is induction, particularly fuel distribution to cylinders 1 and 6. They are much further away from the carby so at higher rpm, such as above 4500, you start to feel a harshness in it that is basically those cylinders starving for mixture every time it's their turn with the middle ones getting all they want. I noticed this on my Corty when it had a Redline 2 barrel manifold. The end runners each had a nasty sharp turn into the port, which I don't think was a great thing. The AussieSpeed has oversized end runners that are also more gently curved to try and compensate for this, the result being a much smoother top-end. My old man's EFI XF did not have such harshness up top, owing to the EFI manifold having much better distribution. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

465 is pretty spot-on for a healthy crossy, good thing too about vac sec is that they only open when the primaries are maxed out and only as far as they need to, so you'd call it a variable, on-demand system. Another thing to remember is that 2 barrel carbies are rated at double the pressure drop of 4 barrels, (3" vs 1.5") as the SAE doesn't consider a 2bbl to be a performance carby. So for a 350 to get that CFM rating, they suck twice as hard while on the test bench as they would a 4-barrel to achieve it. When flowed at the same pressure drop as 4-barrels, 350s flow more like 280cfm. Going by the accepted rule-of-thumb, you take CFM and halve it to get target horsepower.... dunno about you but I think a crossy is good for much more than 140hp. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

It definitely matters mate, spinning it backwards pumps backwards. Spin it the same direction as the dizzy, as that is what turns it normally. 70 down the hole on open chambers means shit compression. They did this when unleaded fuel came along in 1975, and they didn't have anything to replace lead at the time, so octane rating was horrible. That created more problems with the poor quench of that combustion chamber design and pinging that went with it, more retarded cam and ignition timing, and crap performance to go with it. 70 down the hole plus 40 gasket is 110 piston to head clearance, which is way too much to be considered a quench chamber. You need to aim for 50 or less if you want a proper quench action. So with those pistons it behaves like an open head. No huge deal, you just might not be able to run as much timing before you get pinging. My little 302 with closed heads takes nearly 40 degrees total and more under cruise. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Oh I love looking at carnage... Must be a mechanical sadist [emoji848] thanks for sharing Accel pump diaphragms are great on Holleys, so damn easy to change. I wish my street demon had that setup but they have the piston type like a Thermoquad and it sucks. Probably the worst thing about the carby. Very hit-and-miss for pumping ability. Sometimes you could move the throttle and nothing would come out. I had to stuff with the cup seal lots to get it to work ok. Both my previous Holleys were nice and crisp and instant for pump action. If yours was the secondary pump that died, it could have been the wrong one. They take the 50cc diaphragm along with the bigger pump cam, and if you try and put the 30cc one in, it will punch through because it can't deal with the extra stroke of the big cam. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

@Thom might be able to chime in here, he has a vast knowledge of the OHCs and crossys, my guess is a tentative yes for compatibility of balancers, as some folks in the past have fitted EF cranks to Crossy blocks but check timing case clearance and timing pointers, etc. Yes inline 6s are neutral balance, you can actually use a Windsor 157 tooth flywheel on them if they are neutral type. I don't think you run thermostats with electric water pumps as they'd need to sense the water temp accurately without any hindrance to flow, etc and they actually take care of the temp via said sensor and the controller that comes with it. Sounds like a stout little motor there, should be nice and streetable with good midrange punch. What carby are you running? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That's not too bad, much better than the lawnmower-spec 7.8 that some came with Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

What kind of comp will you get if you use the stock rebuilders 70 down the hole but with 58cc closed heads? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

But you have the gun block that will handle some herbs so why not build some into it? If I had my time over, I would have waited a few more paychecks and got a roller cam and zero deck pistons, and it would have been the engine I now wish I had. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk