Mr Polson

Repco sell it, there's a fair few different sizes.

Normally you get the right size and it's just a nice firm fit over the pipe, no clamps needed.



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Scored this off my old man from his Ford days. Some good info in here. Related to the EEC IV (Electronic Engine Control 4) used in XF Falcon/Fairmont/ZL Fairlane/FE LTD. Its focused on the first (leaded) version but generally applies to the unleaded version too.
 
 
Pages 9 & 10 refer to a manual gear switch - I believe this refers only to the four speeds as the T5 wasn't introduced until unleaded models, and the 4.1 never received the "single rail" 5 speed.
 
 
 
 

TPS adjustment
 
What is needed?
- Phillips head screwdriver
- small straight pin(s)
- Digital multimeter
 
 
 
How to do it
The TPS basically bolts to the throttle body with two screws. The holes that the screws go through on the TPS are elongated so you can twist the TPS in either direction to adjust it. To adjust the TPS all you have to do is loosen (don't take them out) both screws and move the TPS until you see the right voltage.
 
To hook the multimeter up you will have to pierce the green wire with a pin so you can check how much voltage is going through it. The red or positive (+) wire on your multimeter will go to the pin in the green wire. Then you'll have to either pierce the black wire and put the negative wire from the multimeter to it, or just put the black multimeter wire to a good engine ground.
Now to check the voltage turn on your multimeter and make sure all of the wires are hooked up right. Then turn the ignition key to the on position, but don't start the car. You should be getting a reading on your multimeter. It should be .98-.99 volts, but anything above .90 and below 1.0 volts should work.
If its not, then its time to loosen the screws on the TPS and move it around until you get it right. When its at the right voltage tighten the screws and re-check it.
If for some reason you cannot get the voltage reading right you have two options. Either buy a new TPS or take off the old one and elongate the holes a little more with a file or a dremel.
 
Fuel injectors - we mistakenly put the 24lbs ones in this engine when we rebuilt it
Resulted in hard to start and extremely rich running, to the point of becoming undrivable.
Put the original ones back in and all was good.
 
 

Pretty sure the BW40 was introduced in XE when they switched to the EFI 6 instead of the V8.

Use whatever fluid is recommended for the box that it has.
Dex3 is not a GM Product, it may have originally been a GM specification but Ford have definitely recommended it too.

I personally use Penrite ATF FS in my BW40, seems to shift smoother and stay clean longer.

Depends what you mean by "best".

Late model Falcons with the ZF6 had 2.72 diff ratio, unless it was a XR6/XR8 etc.

Tyre size will also contribute - my LandCruiser with the Barra and ZF6 has 4.11 diffs, but that combined with the 33" tyres means it sits at 2k rpm at 100km/h.

Depends what you mean by "best".

Late model Falcons with the ZF6 had 2.72 diff ratio, unless it was a XR6/XR8 etc.

Tyre size will also contribute - my LandCruiser with the Barra and ZF6 has 4.11 diffs, but that combined with the 33" tyres means it sits at 2k rpm at 100km/h.

Try looking for a "IMG" tag when you want to put pictures in your thread. That should allow them to load in rather than needing a link clicked.

No they won't.

As Dean said they'd fit 88 onwards XF ute or van, which bolt in from inside the car.
Anything 87 or earlier, has nuts that go on the sealt bolts, from under the car.

And no, the seats won't bolt directly to the early rails and work - without modification.
From memory (been a long time) you can enlarge the holes in the seat rails and bolt the seats to it, but they'll have a lot less range of back/forward movement because they'll end up slightly angled inwards/outwards.

Better off getting Repco to get them direct from Autotechnica
Less companies adding their price on that way

I have a Barra swapped LandCruiser, it has two fuel tanks. The main tank has an internal pump, but the sub tank just has an external inline pump and it works with no issues. I believe it's a more off the shelf version of a Bosch 044.

Haven't had any issues with it, I think once fuel is sucked into the house and pump as long as you don't let it get dry you'd be fine. Even if it does go dry I'd guess it sucks it back up when refilled, but fuel flow is what lubricates electric pumps.

EFI wagons had a low pressure internal pump which fed the high pressure external pump.

EFI wagons had a low pressure internal pump which fed the high pressure external pump.

Should be same sender for X series and EA-ED.
VDO list the same part number for them.
EF/EL were a different sender.

Hard to see in the pictures, but see the twin shock absorbers in the front?

Apparently that was introduced when Broncos were imported to Australia, because they struggled on our gravel roads of the time without the twin shock setup.

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Well there you go. Ford really didn't like change back then.

XD/XE/XF/XG have a very square trim around the rear window.

XH has a very rounded trim, I reckon that's the difference.

This is the XH trim
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/233767221482

When I swapped all the Ghia stuff onto my (XF) wagon, I had to swap over the AC, as it was built without it.

Did include dash out to swap the heater box to include the AC evaporator core.

The hoses were pretty straight forward.
From memory the alternator bracket is different if you have AC (on XF anyway).

I got one of the last new condensers that Repco had in stock - think that included the receiver drier.
By some miracle, when they gassed it up there was no leaks (didn't use new O rings anywhere ) and 5 or so years later it's still holding gas and cold.

I can't really help with price as I had everything but the condenser, and the condenser was on clearance for $10 when I bought it.

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Repco sell it, there's a fair few different sizes.

Normally you get the right size and it's just a nice firm fit over the pipe, no clamps needed.



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Very philosophical question in a way, made me think of the Ship of Theseus, where a ship is repaired over and over again over time until every part has been replaced, is it still the original or now considered a replacement?

Personally with a car I'd base it on the main middle section, if that's original then you're just doing repairs to the front & back of it.

Same from XF to AU.
I got a grenuine one from Ford within the last 12 months for my wagon, was on the shelf at the local Ford dealer with an AU part number.

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I saw a couple of posts on Facebook recently of people that have gotten verification letters lately so they may be available again

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I've had mine in and working for a few years now. I ended up getting my head unit and amp overhauled by a guy in Melbourne for very reasonable price.

In the end I was under the impression the amp provides power to the head unit, no power goes directly to the head unit from the dash wiring.


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Difference in head gaskets for comparison.

Notes on them say suit alloy head



Or suit cast head

There a few units now that don't actually need the unit anywhere visible - the display and info and buttons are all on the mic. But these tend to be at the higher end of the market.
 
GME is probably the best brand, but Oricom and Uniden are also decent.
 
When it comes to aerials - taller doesn't mean better reception. Go by the db rating. Lower db has circular reception, higher db it becomes more oval. So for hilly mountainous terrain you want around the 4 to 6 db. Long flat open terrain you want 6 or higher.
 
You can get magnetic base aerials, that might be best for you in terms of easy removal/storage? Downside is having to run a cord each time.
 
With the bullbar, I'd be inclined to run a extension cord from the CB to the front. Then have the aerial on a pipe clamp type bracket, which would allow fairly easy removal when not using.
 
 

There a few units now that don't actually need the unit anywhere visible - the display and info and buttons are all on the mic. But these tend to be at the higher end of the market.
 
GME is probably the best brand, but Oricom and Uniden are also decent.
 
When it comes to aerials - taller doesn't mean better reception. Go by the db rating. Lower db has circular reception, higher db it becomes more oval. So for hilly mountainous terrain you want around the 4 to 6 db. Long flat open terrain you want 6 or higher.
 
You can get magnetic base aerials, that might be best for you in terms of easy removal/storage? Downside is having to run a cord each time.
 
With the bullbar, I'd be inclined to run a extension cord from the CB to the front. Then have the aerial on a pipe clamp type bracket, which would allow fairly easy removal when not using.