Nath

Guess it depends what you're after, unless it's a track car I figured it wasn't worth the potential defects/roadworthy issues - it's a 40 year old Falcon and will always handle like a boat, it'll just be a boat with expensive coilovers Not sure it's worth the extra drama and money over just getting a good set of standard kit.

I got the XYZ kit for an XD (only the fronts though), cost just shy of a grand at the time I think. They seemed good when I had them in but didn't want the hassle with getting engineering etc, took them out for RWC.

My brother's bike has a connector hard-wired onto the battery to fit a trickle charger so you don't have to take it apart every time you want to charge it. Could you maybe do something similar to that and just leave the plug in a convenient place to hook up when you want to jump it?

Ah didn't realise yours was EFI, not sure if the pump is different in that case or if you can even do that At any rate if you do that and it works then you can at least know the fuel pump is alright and the problem is further back. Edit: Looks like the EFI ones are completely different so that probably doesn't apply. Sent from my moto g(50) 5G using Tapatalk

I had some good luck with a cheap eBay special radiator, daily drove with it for a couple of years and it's still fine now even after sitting for a few more. For the fuel issue - mine always had a problem pulling fuel from a dry line, I guess it can't suck air through. The times I've had to start it after sitting for ages I've always had to pour some fuel into the soft line between the rail and pump to prime it first.

Hey guys, Going to rebuild my strommy soon and have to figure out a couple of things - the first pic is the original from my 81 XD. The second is a mystery one I ordered for parts. They are stamped differently (E and I, different numbers too). Is anyone able to identify it? My one is the emissions model with the idle mixture screw being not adjustable (was blocked with a plastic bushing under the screw). I heard XC and before were adjustable so hoping this new one is an earlier one. If so, I'll swap the bases out. Years ago I tried replacing the non adjustable screw with this bush and screw setup (third pic) but I remember it always had issues seating properly in the hole as it wasn't threaded. Not sure if these are supposed to be press-fit or what. I've messaged the supplier but they're yet to reply. Also, from memory that appears to be the top half of the idle solonoid missing there right (first pic)? Sent from my moto g(50) 5G using Tapatalk

Yeah that's why I want to switch back to the original strommy, it's a 3.3 so a Weber isn't going to make it fast, just more shit to go wrong. I tried loctiting it in and I think I still had issues with the bushing falling out. The place selling them just confirmed its a press fit. From memory the hole might have been tapered and the bushing wasn't (also brass doesn't mould itself to the shape of the well to seal it as far as I know) so not sure how that's supposed to work in real life. Maybe I did something wrong before and I'll see when I take it apart. Edit: They sent me these instructions so I guess it's a press fit, we'll see later. My XD has aircon although not working at the moment, hopefully I can find the other half of the assembly.

Update on this: The place in the UK emailed me back, DGV manual choke setup won't work as the locking ring is a different shape so the holes won't line up, their locking ring what the choke cable connects to so it's necessary. The element connection is also different, Weber has a tongue while DGV has a pin that attaches to the mechanism. So as far as I can tell there's no manual choke setup for the 34ADM available.

I know these are a 4WD accessory but anyone know if something like this is available for X series? I have a set of these munji ones in my Rodeo and it really made the rear suspension less jarring, the shackles move a bit to absorb the bumps instead of being fixed. Maybe it could work okay in a sedan? I just compared the stock rodeo and XD shackle and they're pretty much the same size, the bolts are just facing different directions and a bit smaller on the XD. Messaged munji to see if they might be able to source some. Sent from my moto g(50) 5G using Tapatalk

If there's a way to get behind it, there's rod tools you can use to pop it back out as well. Also a lot of the paintless dent removal kits include knock down punches and puller tools - when you pop it out sometimes you get high spots and the metal is under tension so that might be what's causing it to cave back in. It's not as easy as just pulling it out, I think you need to spend some time with a light next to it getting it perfect so there's no high/low spots. Also heat helps apparently if you have a heat gun. I'd try and avoid using filler if at all possible but I guess sometimes you can't avoid it unless you can weld.

Could try one of those suction cup tools, apparently they work great on flatter surfaces like that. Otherwise you can get a kit, you glue a plastic tab onto the dent and use a slide hammer or puller (check it out on YouTube). They're usually less than a hundie for the whole kit.

Yeah tried them, no clue

They've responded to my email, they don't have one to check but I've compared the measurements they've given for the kit below and it looks like it will bolt up at least. Diameter of the choke assembly thing is the same and the holes for the plate are the same. The inside of it looks similar as well with the fork part there. https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/weber-dgav-dgev-dgv-dgas-dges-dgms-dfav-dft-manual-choke-conversion-kit It really seems to me like it should fit but nothing is ever that easy.

Hey guys, Maybe someone can weigh in here. Trying to get a manual choke setup for a 34ADM, I found nothing in Aus but a shop in the UK has this which will fit a Weber 34ADF. My google fu says they're very similar and it looks to me like it would fit. Anyone happen to know if they might be the same? I'd imagine there's a good chance it would fit. https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/weber-3236-dgav-38-dgas-carburettor-manual-choke-conversion-kit

Hey guys, Can anyone recommend an auto upholsterer in Sydney or know how much it would be to get my seats recovered in cloth (my vinyl is ripped at the seams plus it's just shit material.) Looks like there's some companies doing decent looking leather bucket seats for around 700 (eBay) that just bolt into your rails. Was hoping to keep original parts if I can but I know upholstery costs a kidney so it may not make sense.

Ah okay, thanks Chris. I'll give that a miss then. Just have to find something suitable so I don't have to butcher anything.

Ah okay, those are Fairmont ones apparently. Not really fussed what I put in there as long as it passes blueslip. People are taking the piss with seat prices though, 1200+ bucks for a reasonable set of XD ones.

EB seats will bolt straight in apparently, these are you for 250 near me. Won't look out of place either.

I think they need an adaptor bracket to go onto the original rails which is where I think the issue is. Looking on the site it seems they're ADR approved but that doesn't mean it won't need a cert I think. Suppose I can just put a seat cover on the originals for the inspection

Haha that's the best, wish I still had a mate who worked there. Yeah there's heaps of options, some look stockish too. As long as it doesn't require an engineer cert to pass inspection or something stupid like that I'll get a set.

Anyone happen to have a pic of how the spring is meant to sit at the back of the pedal? Looks like it's meant to be hooked onto the pin and the stalk somehow but I can't figure it out for the life of me.

Cheers, ordered one from eBay, not a lot of options anywhere - 44 bucks!

Looks like there's a good selection of autotecnica seats on rarespares, even leather ones the same colour as my vinyl. They need an adaptor bracket to fit though. Seems like a good idea for 700 bucks, anyone know if that will pass a blue slip okay?

Still a ton of slop in the pedal, could someone confirm if there's a grommet or something missing from there the linkage goes through the plate there? Hole seems to be a lot bigger than the linkage.

Cheers lads, someone on an FB group helped out with these.