roKWiz

My Feb 93 XF van wiring is bog stock and I only have one relay at the brake booster and 2 down at the battery. btw that red circled plug doesn't want to come apart at freeway speeds like mine did, fortunate to avoid a large backfire saving the dizzy gear and rear muffler.

There's some bloody big mountains around here, just ask my poor old trucks.

A little bit like my Louisville. I think there are a couple of Ford bits still left on it. English magazine I used to buy was "Classic Yacht" where this subject continually haunts their letters pages. As Mr Polsons above stated...........A well known turn of the last century racing yacht "Rona" had all its planking replaced, ribs and stringers recut, the copper sheathing was all new, the decks had to be replaced and the doghouse was reconstructed out of remaining pieces from the original. The masts, rigging and sails were all new but the keel and mast step were totally saved with all its serial numbers etched into the casting of the lead ballast. So it was classified as an original 1899 yacht with Lloyds of London backing its authenticity.

How things have changed, back in the 70s and 80's we were all trying to update and modernize our cars now we're going the opposite way in looks.

The XF was getting really hard to get the worn down key to work in the ignition so took the key to one of those generic locksmith blokes who did a lot of head scratching and couldn't be bothered to work out the codes giving up. Tried another country guy (sell guns and ammo, safes etc and do locks), took one look and said yes thats a ??? Turned around cut me a new one, walked out the door, stuck it in the ignition and turned straight away. Might need to find a decent locksmith who is willing to put the effort in to duplicating the key.

Using Russian made Bosch.

Now I know why XF headlights are crap, being made by the "Prince of Darkness" himself.

Not knowing your system, Is the 3rd battery the same as the 2nd one ? Always good to match batteries of the same amps etc (and age). If the 2nd one has been in operation for a while it could bring the newly added one down in charge to that level. I would only add another battery into a bank if I could determine that the original aux battery was holding its charge to the capacity of the new one. Sometimes its better to add 2 new ones together in parrallel. You might need to change the cabling size to match the capacity and can the alternator keep up demand. A high amp alternator doesn't alway allow a charge to another battery until it senses a fully float charge, 1st the starting one, then to the 1st aux then the 2nd aux might get some charge. Thats a lot of driving necessary to charge all 3 up. I'm assuming this but do not know how you system has been set up.

Yep, my Louisville chassis number looks similar only they are on the LHS rails top flange. Kenworth's are the same from that era.

No wonder mine runs like crap warming up in the dead of winter. Summers fine. and thanks Mr Polson

Just out of curiosity what does this PVS actually do, or is it just part of the choke setup.

Yes just bought a replacement tap for mine as its showing signs of decay with the occasional drip.

Been thinking I don't ever recall seeing a rear sway bar for the above model panel vans. Did they make them ? Guess they would be the same as a similar year leaf sprung wagons ? Anyone know.

Come on BGDAV lets see a picture of em.

Won't be rear hanger bushes as they are relatively new, both spring packs are in good nick. Would say more likely tyre quality as there doesn't seem to be much choice these days for 14in wheels. I would like to grab some 14 X 7in S pac wheels for the rear if I can get them made or find some.

Just a little oversteer. (NO REAR SWAY BAR FITTED) A rear bar would be a nice add-on IMO. I've owner/driven Holden panel vans for years in a previous life as a courier driver. Always thought they were better handlers, maybe due to double wishbone front suspension, big sway bars front and back and a full chassis underneath which stiffened them up somewhat. I think what its doing is allowing the weight of the load to push its arse around the curves more. It handles fine for most part but the local roads here are fast, off cambered and potholed. Its not really a big problem, just more of a niggle I have with the Ford PV.

Handle nicely most of the time but sometimes when I have the van loaded up I reckon it could do with a little rear sway correction. I remember I had 2 Holden panel vans with rear sway bars fitted. Both made by Lovells 25mm 1 inch from memory. They also had tramp rods, mind. They handled like slot cars. Most of my driving is two lane blacktop, twisty country roads at 100km/h and freeway.

Don't know about cheap parts but lately I have had a bad run of expensive USA made tools breaking.

Love the big comfy bench seat. The only thing I don't like much is having a slushbox but you don't see many 3 speed column shifts around anymore.

Great read this. Nice work you are doing.

After reading the entire auto electrics threads here on this forum and still having no clue as to pin pointing issues with the ignition system on a XF xflow carby only engine. Usual (non carby) problems of hard starting, delayed acceleration, high speed occasional back fire, low spark when hot. I think I'm due a new replacement coil but would like to go back to a simpler electronic ignition system and move the coil to a cooler area of the engine bay. Can anyone help with what I need to do to eliminate the EST module, so I can run a basic TFI dizzy on my stock crossflow engine. I have seen replacement electronic dizzy's on ebay (see link) claiming to eliminate the EST, anyone know what involved ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ELECTRONIC-DISTRIBUTOR-FITS-FORD-FALCON-XF-6-CYL-3-3L-4-1L-84-87-Sedan-Ute-Van/222797938103?hash=item33dfcabdb7:g:7dAAAOSwUg9aXU2V Appreciate the help on this.

Got back where I'm staying, turned engine off. Went to restart and nothing (weak ign lights showing, no real clicking noises from starter or solenoid) Fair enough I'll check the battery. Volts 10.5V must be dead cell or old. So I'm waiting for another battery (battery removed to check, recharged but will not hold charge (back down to 10.5V) ........... but in the meantime I just gave it a little key turn (before I removed the battery) and the speedo needle keeps shooting up to 50km/h when I turn the ignition key to start. Is this normal as I've never seen it happen before. 93' van 4.1 crossy, carby, auto Tried a new starter motor I had so its not that, alternator fine. Appreciate some feedback on the speedo needle jump.

Yep, the Supercheap auto's one I pulled out had, supplied by Century on the side of it. I did notice in their PDF catalogue that some of the later AGM and red top ones are made elsewhere.

Yep it is a 57 MF and knew It would have the posts on the wrong side but it was the only Century that size with 560 CCA available at the time. The old battery had a really short tight negative lead anyway which I wanted to replace so decided to do it this way. I was more concerned about the inside of the bonnet hitting the Neg battery post but bought some rubber post covers as well. (not shown) I like the Aussie made Century's

Yep battery was stuffed. Got the train into Albury on Sunday where Autobarn had a sale on Aussie Century stuff so score $50 off, lunch at the station and train-ed (15kg) it back. Fortunately the alternator is fine and charging within spec. Some wiring terminals replaced as well. Replaced the battery to Alt. earth cable as it was a bit tight. re. the speedo needle, I've learnt something new. Thanks everyone.