adrianphu123

i always thought XD-E-F-G are more or less the same. They're a bit longer and you need to trim to fit anyway.

I got a set of Lucas ones off a member here and the glass has the ford part number on them so they're just as good i think. Get a set of good reflectors, Philips X-Treme vision globes and you'll never turn back. I just recently did a trip from Sydney to Coffs harbour via Tamworth which involved a bit of night driving and never felt like I lacked lighting even at 100km/h on a country road

I got a set of Lucas ones off a member here and the glass has the ford part number on them so they're just as good i think. Get a set of good reflectors, Philips X-Treme vision globes and you'll never turn back. I just recently did a trip from Sydney to Coffs harbour via Tamworth which involved a bit of night driving and never felt like I lacked lighting even at 100km/h on a country road

oh and loctite the bolts, as they will come loose when you least want them to.

if you have the dash out, you've done most of the heavy lifting. From what i remember, you have to go to the engine side and undo the nuts that hold the studs for the heater box/air con/fan assembly to the firewall. The whole box should then slide off the firewall in the cabin.

disconnect the cable from the carby, then you can isolate the problem to either the carby linkage/shaft or the cable itself.

i did a brake upgrade a while back, slotted rotors, rekitted calipers, new hoses, new master cylinder and new fluid for all 4 wheels. Renewed, they're not bad brakes. They're not hard to do yourself, as long as you have access to an air compressor to remove the pistons.

i did that with my 6cyl, took it up the street dumped before the diff and by the time i came back down the street i was committed to putting the rest of the exhaust back on.

is that the one that keeps leaking? you need to helicoil it, replace the bolt and stop doing it up like a wheelnut 

is that the one that keeps leaking? you need to helicoil it, replace the bolt and stop doing it up like a wheelnut 

is that the one that keeps leaking? you need to helicoil it, replace the bolt and stop doing it up like a wheelnut 

For emergency cleaning of greasy hands to touch the missus : laundry detergent

For emergency cleaning of greasy hands to touch the missus : laundry detergent

it should be block - sealant - paper gasket - sealant - plate - paper gasket - water pump. Did you put thread sealer on the bolts?
 
The top drivers bolt also holds the alternator bracket. Could you have loosened the bolt while moving the bracket to put the alternator back on?
 
Did you scrape all the old gasket off the block? did you clean the threads of the bolt and the bolt holes?
 
If you can live without aircon, take it off  and grab the alternator only bracket. Looks a lot cleaner, belt changes are a lot easier 

nah i left the welds unground. Should have really ground them back but last time i tried that, i ground the whole mount out of square hahaha

I'll give a quick rundown of how i tackled this problem.
 
I have an aluminium console fabed up so i could mount a fire extinguisher between the seats. I decided to mount 3 gauges under and just infront of the centre controls on the dash. I wanted them orientated so that i could see them clearly from the drivers seat(next best option because i really wanted them in line of sight). In order to achieve this, i fabricated a wedge shaped mount, angling the gauges upwards as well as turning them towards the driver.
 
Pics will come later tonight for those interested.

wouldnt recommend draining back to sump, mine drains water from condensation when i open the tap

I think the front channel does have a different piece, since its a bit narrower (i think) the kits i bought have two seperate pieces, one piece narrower than the other for the front i assume.

I think the front channel does have a different piece, since its a bit narrower (i think) the kits i bought have two seperate pieces, one piece narrower than the other for the front i assume.

spread the two flaps in the middle and you should be able to pull it out.

I think he meant the actual brake line, i got the part for $2.20

dont forget the ground strap from body to bellhousing too

Shit,...I thought I was on a different website for a minute. 

that looks to be a primer. What are the wires from the solenoid connected to? there might only be one, the other is a ground which grounds on the bracket.

If you have a drift long enough, say 8 ft long... No seriously, it was a general statement about bearing cups. Welding them out is the most successful method i've used, but only do it if they're too tight to pull out.
 
Installing a new one should be as easy as slipping it in by hand. If it's too tight, there's probably a dag of metal or a galled housing, either of which can be fixed with a bit of emery cloth.