adrianphu123

Guess it’s time to build that motor I’ve been planning for the last 5 years!

You need to ask to speak to Cam mate. He does the assembly work in his own time but is sounds like your on it.
 
Plus one on checking to see if a shim is needed with the cam.

Hey guys
 
Looking at what other people have used for a 1.84" inlet valve with a single groove for a 250 crossflow.
 
thanks,
 
adrian.

425 is made to be mounted to a Holley 4 barrel baseplate, but you'll need a 4 barrel manifold to go with it. A 200 is easily mounted to a EFI manifold, since the inlet and outlet are at 90 degrees. WIth a 225, the inlets and outlets are inline, so unless you can fit an elbow between the mixer and shock tower, you'll run into packaging issues.
 
I'd say fit the manual gearbox first, then think about diff gears. Check whats in it now, then aim for a 3.23 or 3.27 diff.

425 is made to be mounted to a Holley 4 barrel baseplate, but you'll need a 4 barrel manifold to go with it. A 200 is easily mounted to a EFI manifold, since the inlet and outlet are at 90 degrees. WIth a 225, the inlets and outlets are inline, so unless you can fit an elbow between the mixer and shock tower, you'll run into packaging issues.
 
I'd say fit the manual gearbox first, then think about diff gears. Check whats in it now, then aim for a 3.23 or 3.27 diff.

I have an ASR one, very good build quality and you can specify what features you want to add to it.

I used a pitman arm puller, broke it, sent it back under warranty and got a new. Used it again and it worked second time around

I used a pitman arm puller, broke it, sent it back under warranty and got a new. Used it again and it worked second time around

I used cold gal on my headers, then coated with high temp exhaust paint, all from bunnings and its held up really well for over a year now

iron and alloy head have different bolt patterns

Hey guys,
 
Just asking what people have used for the red bumper mould strips?
 
thanks
adrian.

Go with studs, makes it a whole lot easier to fit your headers.

I would recommend against buying a bend and cutting to make 2 bends. You never the the correct angles and even though mandrel bending maintains the diameter, it deforms the pipe slightly and fitment will become an issue
When fitting the over the diff section of the exhaust, support the car on the rails and let the axle hang to give you more room.Especially good if you've painted diff or exhaust. Useful for fitting the rear swaybar too.
 
When i did my exhaust, i made mounts to suit the stock hangers, flanged it after the headers, before and after the muffler. I wish i had raised the muffler a bit more, as its barely hitting the swaybar but i think i can just get away with it. I would recommend using 3 bolt flanges as they are roughly the same price as 2 bolt ones.
 
Good write up mate, lots of good ideas there

I agree with needing washers on those bolts, and not spring washers either. As you're tightening them, they'll catch onto the slot and rip the washer apart.
 
Are those the original bolts? When i did mine, some of the original bolts bottomed out in the hole before even touching the header flange. Go with studs and brass nuts, header install becomes a lot easier

I agree with needing washers on those bolts, and not spring washers either. As you're tightening them, they'll catch onto the slot and rip the washer apart.
 
Are those the original bolts? When i did mine, some of the original bolts bottomed out in the hole before even touching the header flange. Go with studs and brass nuts, header install becomes a lot easier

Most likely front plenum, just in front of the windscreen. Either that or the windscreen itself

Most likely front plenum, just in front of the windscreen. Either that or the windscreen itself

Hey guys, just looking for feedback on 2 inlet ports I roughly ported this afternoon. First time porting so Im sure there are many improvements to be made.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Im practicing for an early unmarked head to suit cam 234 deg @ 50 and 0.550" valve lift.
 
 
thanks guys,
 
adrian.

Turns out i had one already, I havent cleaned up the welds on the front side (i got impatient and just wanted to get it on) but theres water temp, oil pressure and fuel. I had to get a fuel gauge because the LPG sender wasnt compatible with the factory fuel gauge

haha its simple but getting that damn thing out is the hard part

Any brake fluid leak is a bad leak so i'd say replace it and as said, PBR

Regarding the EFI manifold, what about opening up the holes on the plenum so that the runners have a bigger hole to draw air from? but keeping the runners the same size to maintain airflow velocity? Does it work like that?
 
I seem to remember the ports on the plenum being smaller than the runners and are real rough on the edge.

I went to a conference recently about 1%ers, keep making 1% improvements and you'll end up with a big difference

I went to a conference recently about 1%ers, keep making 1% improvements and you'll end up with a big difference

How even is the flow in the EFI manifold? I moved from carby to EFI manifolds on LPG only and it felt a lot better.
 
I got a few tips:
 
Remove the power steering
Merge collector makes a big difference over standard formed collectors, seems to have quietened it down at idle.
T5 gearbox and 3.23/3.27 differential puts you in a better rev range compared to the standard 2.92