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Everything posted by adrianphu123
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i usually run HPR30 20W-60 so 2.5 and 3 sounds the goods. Thanks guys
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Have you undone the wiring plug on the bottom left? i think theres a small button/area in the middle of the plug you have to press to remove
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Hey guys, whats the best way to remove conrod bolts? thanks, adrian
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yep, got a set of ARP bolts here and will be closed and honed.
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Hey guys, just a quick question about polishing connecting rods, I've polished the sides of the rods to get the ridge down, as well as most of the casting surface pattern off the entire width. Just wondering if it thats time to stop? I dont want to take too much material off. I've also polished the tops of the beams as shown in the photo. Is that okay or have i cocked it up? All grinding and sanding was done parallel to the beam, not across it. Thanks, adrian
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Hey guys, Got 2 lifters stuck in their bores in my spare motor, wont come up, wont drop down but has a small window where they move and spin freely. Currently soaking in inox, any ideas? thanks adrian
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Yep, already have a set here. Scorpion SCP1069BL non adjustable pedestal mount And that was my concern too, regarding the cam being too big and even asked the guy at camtech if i should go a step down but i think it'll be okay.
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socket, extension and rubber mallet solved that issue pretty quick. Regarding the oil pump, im pretty set on a standard.
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Yeah thats what i told the machine shop/engine builder but he recommended it that way. It was explained that a high volume pump with standard clearances will chew out the gear due to the extra load but with extra bearing clearance, the oil has somewhere to go thus relieving the pressure on the pump. Im putting it together myself slowly so ultimately i'll get the final say.
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I'll give it a go later today. Im building this one up gerg, the one in the XF is going great but without a cam change/increased compression etc i feel it wont get any better. The plan is Bore + hone 0.030 over, zero decked Flat top pistons Camtech CT142 528 cam 10:1 comp LPG only High volume oil pump with extra bearing clearance ARP rod bolts Still working in the finding other components but hopefully will be a good combination and will be a daily driven street car The head may or may not get bigger inlet valves but will have roller rockers and springs to suit
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cams been removed and all other lifters were removed with hand force only on the cam side to prevent any damage to the bore and yeah all the lifters were worn in a concave fashion
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How do you balance the EFI manifold? one idea i had was to enlarge the ports on the plenum on 1&6 cylinders a tad more than 2&5 with 3&4 being the smallest
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wouldnt it be cheaper to just rebuild the set you've got already? but if you're really determined, with the backing plate, rotors and handbrake cable, it should fit. Disc size should be the same, both look pretty similar inside my wheel when i changed diff from XF to ED, but the backing plate should account for any variations anyway.
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Turns out i had one already, I havent cleaned up the welds on the front side (i got impatient and just wanted to get it on) but theres water temp, oil pressure and fuel. I had to get a fuel gauge because the LPG sender wasnt compatible with the factory fuel gauge
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took the factory console out and made my own. One thing you do have to consider mounting it there is angling the gauges up so that you can see them from your driving position. They're hard to see down there as it is, anything to make it easier. I'll try and get some photos when i have time
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I think you mean 225 gaz, not B2, but i tend to agree. When i got mine tuned, we richened up the mixtures quite a bit so the 200 might be a bit too small
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I've had more success with a 200 mixer and the EFI manifold but my biggest improvement by far has been getting a new converter. My old one sat vertical and had oil and gunk about an inch high from the bottom since it hadnt been touched in about 10 years.
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haha its simple but getting that damn thing out is the hard part
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Any brake fluid leak is a bad leak so i'd say replace it and as said, PBR
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Hey guys, Occasionally on a cold night, my autometer gauges would fog up but the main clusters unaffected. Has anyone has this problem? They're inside the car, sit on the centre console under the HVAC/radio and have never been exposed to water thanks adrian
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I dont have aircon and I replaced the heater core probably a year ago but i'll double check. I dont think it was raining that day.
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regarding the manifold, XF.0747 was running a turbo through the standard manifold, no idea what work was done to it inside though
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yep, from the workshop manual, XF TPS: At closed throttle ------ 0.5v - 1.2v open throttle-------- 4v - 5v
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Regarding the EFI manifold, what about opening up the holes on the plenum so that the runners have a bigger hole to draw air from? but keeping the runners the same size to maintain airflow velocity? Does it work like that? I seem to remember the ports on the plenum being smaller than the runners and are real rough on the edge.
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I went to a conference recently about 1%ers, keep making 1% improvements and you'll end up with a big difference