DemonHunter

Yeah will get those bolts next time. Got brand new ones an funny part is 1/2 the bloody gaskets are useless as hell rocket gasket doesn’t fit at all exhaust gasket one hole doesn’t line up the one for the peice in top of throtal haha holes are totally wrong an then l find out the gasket they sent me wasn’t the one l orderd as l ordered the au msl one an they sent me a graphite shit one. Just let them know they f#**{| up an they meant to be a highly rep company an shit but nope useless as dog piss on a fire Really not happy with what l paid

Ok lm at a real loss here big time as lve never done these heads. Just got new head gasket a graphite one as l couldn’t find the au one everyone says is better Now on the gasket kit l got with paper saying what to do blah blah blah for head an block it says 1 . 30 nm 2 . + 120 deg. But both my Manuel’s say. 1 .40 nm an then 90 deg?? But then l had someone say this to me and l have no bloody idea which is rite to do but this is what l got told you go 40Nm then a 90Dec turn, it actually is 120Nm. So in reality if you go 40Nm 80Nm 120Nm, you end up with the same torque head but in a little bit smaller steps

He left the town an is gone they will be speaking to all who’s cars he worked on They are re mbursing me for his shit which is good for me an even stated that when l take another car in for a roady they will only charge me 3/4 of what it costs

Turned out that the ass-ole who did my car was a real prick and was fired in the end because he was ripping ppl off with bullshit things that weren’t wrong or was doing shit to have em come back an the boss wasn’t very happy my neighbour took their car in just for a head light globe an check belts billed em for a brand new gasket for the rocker cover Haha car never had any leaks at all as car was just on a year old an l saw the engine bay an heard it running day before it went in an it was like it just rolled off the factory line clean as hell and very quiteexcept for a squeaky belt an they had done about 30 thousand ks in it

Master cylinder brand new was told that my brakes were spongy due to abs being faulty when l changed my rotars to slotted l changed the abs as well did gravity bleed an when the drivers front was full of air l noticed that the nipple was a lil strange after l actually took it off to see if there was a crack near it an noticed that the nipple was different pulled one out of spare good set an compared them. The one that was in mine was bloody smaller in length an a lil but the thread was less an where the hole was was longer. Fitted spare one in an did gravity bleed again no air bubbles like mad this time in the line. Can even move the brake pedal now Funny part is the nipple isn’t even out of a rear or even a e series brake caliper so lm wondering wtf it came out of because there wasn’t any need to change anything at the rw joint at all an every brake place l went to l spoke to said it was my abs was either faulty or air in the lines an l bled them few weeks ago before l changed to slotted rotors the other day an never noticed Bastards doing that not rite so l wasted time an money on getting a donor in some way an taking the original abs off to fit this one only to find out that it wasn’t the abs but the fact air was being sucked in via a bleeder that wasn’t the correct one in my car All l gotta do now is do the old fashioned assistant to press pedal so l can bleed brakes all over again. Some one even went as far as telling me my booster was shot or l has a warped rotor which l thought was funny as rotors calipers booster an master were all new an calipers were rekiitted with new seals an stuff before the original car was killed last year by a tree

Found that the bloody bleeder nipple was t the correct one at all in the front drivers no cracks in line or anything with the abs as it was working sweet from the donor car the only fluid that’s at the ends is when l fitted the new one to the car Don’t know how it could be master cylinder as it’s a brand new one an it was fine before l did the abs the rotors. Least now l know why the bastard was spongy on brakes after bleeding them earlier before l changed abs module was because some prick at the rwc place fitted a smaller one an l didn’t even know till l took the thing out an compared it to the other brake set l have as a spare. Just don’t know what to do l don’t have vacuume hose hooked to the booster as the head is off waiting for new gasket kit

Ok as the title says l have a rock hard brake pedal that can’t be pumped or anything. I just fitted new slotted rotors all around new pads even new abs as someone told me mine was rooted. I have tried to do gravity bleed going left rear right rear left front rite front but when it comes to the right front doing gravity bleed it seems to be the main one with a lot of air in it like there is no bloody end. I’ve even tried to bleed the system the normal way after lve gravity bled them bakes an stuff to rid air out of the lines abs an what not but pedal is like a bloody rock an wont move an an the calipers ain’t doing their job of braking. Master cylinder booster an calipers all worked before l changed the rotars the abs pump because some idiot said mine was rooted in the abs cause l still had spongy pedal after bleeding ( an l only found out today the abs needs to be bleed a certain way with a special set up. ???). What l don’t get is all the stuff l fitted to the car came from my el xr that was wrecked an this is a ef body an all were fine an the new abs l just fitted came from a complete tuning driving el so the abs is the same so why is there still a ton of air mainly in drivers from brake when l gravity bleed an why the hell cant l even move the damn pedal. I thought l would kill 2 birds with the one stone by changing rotars pads even the bloody abs while l have the engine head off doing new gasket an head Guess l bit off more than l can chew but since this crap virus is around decided be a perfect time to get things done new instead of way later down the road when l get ready to paint the heap

Ok this has probably been done heaps of times but me lm still learning about these mental heads lol ok l have 4 e series heads 91 AB had been done for turbo lpg hadn’t been used yet 2x 94 AB one is on my xg tiki motor as head on it was screwed big time other is so so an being used on my car as lm doing new head gasket an original head is wrecked on water jackets last but least is a fully recoed head new valves lifters etc 95 DA 6090AB Have no idea what any of these mean at all except for the tiki heads an my mrs one has what ever head on her 97 fairmont lol. now the 91 AB I was told is eb-d style xr head that l want to use but sadly l have to have a new rocker arm bolt done as a hole stripped an lm using ef xr6 cam an rocket assembly is that gonna be ok on it an the other head 95 DA head that’s all recoed an stuff complete l may run on my ef xr since it’s brand new 1000 ks only done if lucky lol. I’m more old skool than these ohc things

Ok this has probably been done heaps of times but me lm still learning about these mental heads lol ok l have 4 e series heads 91 AB had been done for turbo lpg hadn’t been used yet 2x 94 AB one is on my xg tiki motor as head on it was screwed big time other is so so an being used on my car as lm doing new head gasket an original head is wrecked on water jackets last but least is a fully recoed head new valves lifters etc 95 DA 6090AB Have no idea what any of these mean at all except for the tiki heads an my mrs one has what ever head on her 97 fairmont lol. now the 91 AB I was told is eb-d style xr head that l want to use but sadly l have to have a new rocker arm bolt done as a hole stripped an lm using ef xr6 cam an rocket assembly is that gonna be ok on it an the other head 95 DA head that’s all recoed an stuff complete l may run on my ef xr since it’s brand new 1000 ks only done if lucky lol. I’m more old skool than these ohc things

Yeah just tried that as l never done a e head before all new to me and just snapped one bolt an one stripped the thread somehow an yet l do slowly tighten em down but by bit now l just wrecked. New head an no way of fixing it as nobody around to do it so now lm getting rid of the shit heap. Hmmm older fords are easier to work on Got the snapped bolt out but don’t know how to fix the stripped thread on the hole at all 24 nm is 17.7 foot pounds an 34 nm is almost 25 foot pound an because it’s hard to set a17.7 nm it’s easier to set it at 18

Ok is it only one or 2 tension settings as l can’t figure it out in nm but if l set it 1st in almost 18 pound then 25 pound it should be ok??

Ok lve just had to replace my head as it roached big time l can’t find anywhere the bolt pattern to do the rocker assembly up at all except for the tension settings and that’s all not even a damn image in my workshop Manuel or web all l see is for other motors they try say is a e series 6. I’ve just sat there an put the gear on but don’t know what the pattern is or anything at all also would there be any difference to the cams as l just put my old tikki head cam on the head as this head is built for turbo lpg an l also just put new lifters in that l had sitting in oil for months tucked away.

Turns out that the rack in it is a original but l got it all done in the end a mate gave me a intermediate shaft from what ever it was an the end fitted the rack no problems so l took it off an fitted it to the ef intermediate shaft and bingo wheel straight when wheels are straight ahead which is awsome but only issue now is that it’s tight when turning the steering wheel none of that sorta spring bounce back when u rock the steering wheel like it did before l changed the rack. Could it be because the new el rack had sat for some time wrapped an covered up ?? I purged it of air and every thing but it sorta feels like bloody Manuel steering to a point when stationary to turn but not as tight even with front of the ground it’s tight an that was before l even fitted the new intermediate shaft so l could see if it leaked or not from the lines Or could l of possibly put lines on the wrong way??

Ok 1st issue is my ef-l rear left door has issues opening from inside an out. Door shuts easy enough but the issue is when l open it from the out or inside l have to either shove on it from I or pull hard to open it. I’ve adjusted the striker plate an watched as l shit it an it was dead even with the door and everything but soon as it starts to engage it’s a lil snugging but then open I get the push hard yank hard to open l even tried a different striker that l ground down a lil an changed the lock mec in the door same issue even changed doors same bloody issue. What would be causing that. ?? 2 nd issue is wipers where does one get new bushes to fit the arms under the cowl as my left wiper has some serious free play. When l use them an turn off the passengers is still 1/4 in the up position an l just push it down. I’ve noticed that the bushing or what ever it’s called is pretty much fragged. Need help as lm getting ready to paint the car soon an wanna have no issues with rwc as they will pick the hell outa those two issues

Well did the rack from ef to el an found that there is a difference in the racks. The difference l found with the 2 racks sitting one infront of the other is that the el an ef have different lengths in the rods that the tie rods connect to on the racks. Ef is longer so it seems to the el and when l had the ef one in my alignment was screwed up with all my el front suspension. I could have wheels straight but if l did a full lock to the right wheel would hit the radius rod Had a mate try an do the alignment an didn’t matter either way a wheel would hit the radius rod on either side when adjusted an l didn’t mess with the rods at all. Fitted the el one in wheels were spot on except for drivers being a fraction out as l knocked the nut when fitting it Just needs a minor adjustment and wheels are spot on an everything. Who would of guessed they’re different in the lengths of the rods lol. But now l need the piece that goes between the rack an the column to connect it all up an then it will be mobile again. Thing is what’s the difference with the color of the rubbers on the tops of the racks as the el is green an the ef is black.