PapouGhia

All sunroof's were supplied by Hollandia.
Some factory fitted, others dealer fitted, and occasionally aftermarket fitted also.
 
 
 
 

Yeah, use them on my Clevo's, never had an issue.

i use the rollmaster on my crossy,good quality.

The roll master time chain is that the 3 key way one
On the way in there today!




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I think they're just a single spring, with a damper inside them.
(for higher rev applications)

Don't use the crow timing gear set, use ROLLMASTER. Trust me.  
 
Jump onto precisions website and just get stock replacement springs, that way you won't need retainers and locks - unnecessary expense.  Same with pushrods, stock will be fine and if you can find some xc units you'll have an even stronger pushrods. 
 
Forget the unmbrella seals, they are junk. You will got the proper efi valve stem seals in the full gasket set. 
 
Yes if you got with a crow stock replacement cam then you will need the dg2 dizzy gear. It's got to do with the hardness of the aftermarket blanks.  Standard blanks are junk soft (why the drop lobes at will) hence they can run the junk soft dizzy gear. 

It's just that it says they're for E-series (OHC) engines. I don't know enough about E-series engines to know what springs they use, but crossy engines use clevo valvesprings. Might want to clarify before buying.

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Don't sell yourself short mate, your info was great. Thanks for posting.
It's stuff like this that helps anyone doing up the old Fords. 
Excellent thread. 

@ando76 may be the one to know,  about standard EFI system running a different cam
i'm not "everyone else" when it comes to the EFi, i've seen how even a standard cam with a worn lobe caused the XF Efi to be a royal pain to run right.

1985 xf ghia mate


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Are they the right valve springs?

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Is it a leaded or unleaded engine? (pre or post 86')
Those valve stem seals, are for leaded engines.
 
 

Email Camtech.

Plus 1 for precision. They are doing a lot more direct selling now and they have good stuff at close to trade prices. 
 
Shop around and buy the components individually and you will save plenty. That camtech cam will work nice. Make sure you order the efi gasket set.  Even tho it's a stock rebuild, id put a rollmaster double row chain in it.  Precision sell JP gear sets and I'm not a fan. Ebay has rollmaster units at good pricing. 
 

The standard efi brain box can't cope with much at all. Unless it's a stock rebuild for authenticity, I'd go with an aftermarket computer and loom if your chasing any sort of performance or even just reliability out of the car. Everything on them is just so old and antiquated it's very hard to keep them running nicely in standard form, let alone with a bump stick. 
 
A good aftermarket computer like a haltec haltec can be had for very little dollars in reality. It will give you endless tuning options, the after sales support is tremendous and with all modern sensors the old girl will purr. 
 
The next best compromise would be an e series computer graft in and chip. 
 
The reality is the cam they list for efi compatability would give very little  improvement over a FRESH stock engine. 

Just hold off, until @ando76 replies...
he's forgotten more about crossflows, than most of us will ever know.
 

probably isn't one.. i haven't seen anyone keep the factory ecu etc if they did. otherwise you'd be going back in time so far you might need to search on xfalcon.com that site is still going, but not much happens there anymore.
 
if you aren't doing head work, then a cam and valve springs and raising the compression would be the MILD? build.. (with extractors and 2.5" exhaust)
 
 
 

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crow cams had a listing for the efi cam that was slightly improved, they go plenty good as is when running right. 
in My experience you won't get change from $4000 if reconditioning any engine(doing belts and hoses, and changing engine mounts and cables and everything else in between) 
if the engine is running right, leave it.. if not, i'd be diagnosing that first.. the Efi was common to wipe cam lobes, and if so, just get a new timing chain, cam and lifters fitted and see what it's like.. 
you'll struggle to find people willing to work on old cars these days, the issues are usually not able to source parts, or rusted bolts blowing the time budget out far and beyond. also the quote argument where people say WHOA! i could buy another car for that.. 
 
these cars are one of the easiest to work on, you would have to consider doing a lot of the work yourself(saves a mechanic breaking something also, which i've had PLENTY of times)

I may have gone abit overboard today...


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i'd just email crow cams, here's the cam list.  https://www.crowcams.com.au/Portals/0/Catalogue/Index%20PDF's/Ford%206%20Cylinder%20Crossflow%20and%20Pre%20Crossflow.pdf
i haven't rebuilt one in over 10yrs, and i farmed a lot of the work out .  and chose the wrong combo of parts, but mine was straight gas anyway so got away with a mild cam(i should have gone bigger)

if i had an EFi car keeping all the stock gear, i'd use a standard cam, because they are very fussy these engines using the stock air flow meter etc.
i drove one once that only had a 2.5" exhaust, cold air intake and extractors and it made 107rwkw on the dyno mine made 99rwkw on LPG, might not sound much but they make bucket loads of torque and the 2.77 diff and long gears suit this combo. 
 
if you don't want the thing owing too much when finished, keep the engine relatively stock, you'll have headaches if you modify it much.
 
 

My advice, is to use repro parts sparingly.
Refurb and re-use as much of your original parts as possible, as they have a superior fit.
 
You can't polish up the chrome mouldings, as they're actually clear anodised polished aluminium.
To fix it, you have to chemically strip off the anodising, then re-polish, then re-anodise, and then mask/paint the blackouts.
 
Rare Spares are the only ones doing repro window belt moulding seals to my knowledge.
Definitely replace those seals if your original's are old and hard,
as they will start scratching the glass, when you wind the windows up/down.

clarke rubber may have a door seal rubber that matches or will work, but you'd to glue it to the pinch weld. compared to buying one already complete as is.