FORD_MAN

I run a Quickfuel 600 vac sec on my XF ute with similar specs,

I run a Quickfuel 600 vac sec on my XF ute with similar specs,

I run a Quickfuel 600 vac sec on my XF ute with similar specs,

My brothers XE Wagon has had the seat rails redrilled to mount the seat further back,

@BTS666 Yeah I put some N50R14's(around same size as 295/50) on my XE sedan, only had around 3mm clearance to the lower control arm & rubbed while moving,
If changed to Lower control arm to a tubular or RHS like then would have more clearance, but would fit a 275 quite easily stock,

My brothers XE Wagon has had the seat rails redrilled to mount the seat further back,

Mate, thank you so much for that. It is in and it fired straight up!
 
I really appreciate it. Electronics just does my head in.

Yes use the breather hole to fill with oil on the Aussiespeed rocker cover, I have one on my XF ute, 

Pro-Gram makes Front, Center & rear main caps for cleveland, windsor (5.0, 302 & 351) & BBF,
https://mwengineservices.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Catalogue_V2.pdf
 

Pro-Gram makes Front, Center & rear main caps for cleveland, windsor (5.0, 302 & 351) & BBF,
https://mwengineservices.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Catalogue_V2.pdf
 

Pro-Gram makes Front, Center & rear main caps for cleveland, windsor (5.0, 302 & 351) & BBF,
https://mwengineservices.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Catalogue_V2.pdf
 

looks prime for some 4.9 stickers and registering in an XE lol

its a Hall Effect TFi distributor, I know with MSD its common to remove the module & then 12V+ve(ignition), signal wire to MSD, Earth/12V-ve,
& MSD Hall effect uses points pickup wire (White)

I have 1 7/8'' to 3 1/2'' 4into1 Proflow headers & have decent clearance to starter motor, but did add a heat fabric type heat shield just incase.

I have B&M pan & aeroflow braided flexable dipstick on my C4 (pan fill/C10), I added a male to male fitting into the pan, then a female to female 90° fitting, then B&M dipstick adapter, then aeroflow dipstick. Standard pan & dipstick 'just' cleared my extractors, but also know @clevocortina copied my setup for his XD as he had clearance issues,

It was the Accel pump diaphram, just leaked fuel everywhere,
Filter stud had came lose a few times was a bad fit, I was like where did it go... must of fallen on the ground. bit later, knock knock knock. was alright with a new stud,
Piston had part of the stud stuck in it after I removed the head, (RHS of broken section), block looked good & is standard bore so should clean up alright.

It was the Accel pump diaphram, just leaked fuel everywhere,
Filter stud had came lose a few times was a bad fit, I was like where did it go... must of fallen on the ground. bit later, knock knock knock. was alright with a new stud,
Piston had part of the stud stuck in it after I removed the head, (RHS of broken section), block looked good & is standard bore so should clean up alright.

I used to have a 6210 650DP, was on a XE V8 parts ute, worked alright but acc pump died, it also killed the parts utes 302c when the air filter stud came lose & went into Cyl 8 breaking the piston. later put a kit in it & fitted to my black ute but started leaking from the plug above the rear needle on the bowl that had been patched before, so brought a new HP street 650DP.

engine mostly assembled.
had to cut up some clevo guide plates and run them individually.
sent pushrods back to get some stock length ones because they are a perfect fit (we knew it would be hard to guess after all the changes).
left to do :
install a new bush and cam gear onto dizzy
waiting on pushrods so i can finish top end assembly
install oil filter
install water pump
install rear welsh plugs
install ballancer
install electric fuel pump and wire into car
then when i get a free weekend swap her in !

sorry for the slow progress (had a few issues with machine shop).

We did it years ago     The old RDP ute , Factory clevo block from the wreckers ,  C302B heads , 2 x 88mm Turbos  1273 RWHP . It went on to run 8.50 
That factory block never let us down . And i can verify it was every bit a factory clevo block..  Was grouted to welch plugs . The only thing in the block was some fretting of the main caps @ 8200 rpm  
 
That same day I got to take  that car ontrack for powercruise . It was fast  
 
1273rwhp Ford BA Xr8 Ute by RDP Motorsport USA - YouTube
 
Ford Ba XR8 Twin Turbo Ute at the Drags Testing Built by RDP Motorsport - YouTube
 
Twin Turbo Ford XR8 Ute by RDP Motorsport - YouTube

yikes
 

I remember reading something on here about Thunderbird V6 roller rockers once same as cleveland(& big block ford) but 12 in the kit instead of 16, might of been Scorpion 5/16" bolt on...
Crane kit is CR52745-12, I tried this kit on my xflow but had a few guide plates that didn't line up well. Ended up going Yella Terra/Street Terra kit bolted up easy as.

Hey check this out,i found this by accident,an interview with steve masterton about how by the end of 84 they had there 7500rpm clevo front running the pack,and next year the rules are changing so he is back to square 1,even at amaroo park which was a tiny circuit the xe looks sleek and very fast,listen to dick jonsons clevo when they talk to him live,and check the masterton engine at the begining of the video.
 

Gerg has already posted a good guide. & yes they get can expensive once your looking at over 250hp flywheel, they are only 140hp stock with carb,
Crow roller rockers will need 7/16" studs & guide plates, I'd go with Yella terra. I run the flat top polished version of Aussiespeed rocker cover, brought from Ron/Kustom bitz as well.
Key to power on Crossflow is head work, there is also a thread on xflow head porting in the Crossflow section, standard flow around 175cfm@.550", ported street head tend to be around the 205-215CFM@.550" quite a few ported heads tend to flow upto .550" then become harder to get higher lift flow. my CNC head flowed 236cfm at .550" & upto 250cfm @.650". A lower flowing head will need more camshaft duration to make similar power. Auto would be nicer for the strip,
 
My XF ute made 252rwhp rebuilt myself, balanced, 250 crossflow with hypertec pistons, resized rods with ARP bolts, C2 CNC ported head, 237@50 550" hyd cam, street terra rockers, crow moly pushrods, aussiespeed 4 barrel, QFT600 Vac sec, stock BW51 & regraphed XE/XF dissy (for now), 3.45LSD, figures say 10.1:1 Comp, still yet to race it after being tuned.
build thread below
 

New extractors
 

 

Watching The Skid Factory (youtube) I've seen them use heat gun to winkle up the winkle paint,
*after a bit of looking back through your thread, as a temp exhaust, cut through the expanded part on the collector & rotate to the left (guessing 4-7mm) then reweld, should work
Those extractors also look to tapper down to fit in that small "collector" that looks to just be a flared bit of pipe from when they were made,
if so, I'd cut them back where they are still round (maybe extend the secondary's a bit & put a pair of mandrel bends from where you cut) then put a twin 1 ?/?" in to 2" out collector, also with the extractors does the 4th cyl pipe go into the side of the 1st cyl, or is the collector just hidden by 2&3 (hard to tell from photos).
 
As to pipe size Vs engine as a EG. VE SV6 3.6lt has 2 1/4" twin from factory, 1800cc per bank, so 2" will be fine for a 1660cc.
also to 2" single on 4.1, from memory BF E-gas utes have 2 3/4" exhaust, & EA onwards were always 2 1/4".