SLO247

Yeah the column is different, the wheel does indeed sit closer in an XD. 

I'd happily use one. Without getting into a technical argument, I'd possibly go straight to the 4 barrel.

well here it is. 13s finally fitted to the car. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Ok so I am pretty wrapped with the way its come up. 
When i first fitted them and lowered the car down off the jack, i immediately wanted to put the 15s back on. i did not like them haha. 
but the more i look at the car, with the ride height, and the dish on the wheels, and the negative camber up front, the more I really like these wheels  
 
It has opened a new can of worms however  
Im going to remove the drums and paint them. it looks shocking now that I can see the rusty drums, and I desperately need to sort out some centre caps for the wheels. 
 
It drives much  much better. the vibration/shudder is 99% gone. its so minor now it feels like the road surface being rough is the only thing causing vibrations. however I am going to loosen all the tapered wheel nuts, and carefully do them up to make sure the wheels are properly seated and central on the hubs. otherwise, I am happy  

Is indeed 1/4 NPT, turns out they are measured differently so very close in size. 

Anyone know what thread the coolant drain plugs are either side of the cleveland block? They are different to the oil gallery plugs, tried that already.  

Either Dove Grey or Medium grey, check your trim code on the build plate. Nice car!

Hahaha. Yep your right. I must be tired thanks mate

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My Nolathane uppers arrived, time to put the shit back in the horse.
 
They've given the outer sleeve a decent step to press down to so you don't have to guess how far to press it in.

 
Trying to show my crush spacer that prevents the two ends from squeezing inwards while pressing from each side. Basically a piece of angle with some bits of flat bar welded on each end to make a "C" shape. This makes a convenient window to see what the pin is doing while you're pressing the end in. Measures 205mm initially, may take a few grinds here and there to shape it right because the insides of the arms aren't exactly square to each other.

 
First bush going in, no dramas

 
OK don't be a dickhead like me and put the other end in with the pivot in place but no inside washers. Had to press it all apart again to get them in. Didn't make that fucken mistake the second time!

 
Nuts on and zapped up, decided that the tiny sachet of moly grease they give you isn't going to cut it long term, so installed some 6mm extended grease nipples. I put them into the outer sleeve on the bush rather than bore down the centre of the pin because those pins are as hard as a dog's forehead. Tested with my work grease gun, goo comes out the end, happy times.

 
One thing to note: the bolts that go through the pivot into the shock tower are specially splined on the shank to be a hammer-fit into their bores, so don't try and undo them from the pivot side. Treat them like you would wheel studs. Take care with them not to damage the thread, and don't go substituting them with a standard 1/2" UNC bolt.
 
 
 
 
 

Assembly sequence:

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I've scoured our forum looking for a thread on the topic and couldn't find any, so I thought I'd start one.
 
I pulled the hat off the one kindly donated to me by Ando76 and found a bit of a surprise inside. After sitting around my yard for a while plus however long before, it's got some terminal corrosion on the gears. This is quite a setback as the thing seemed to turn OK when I received it. I was only counting on a fresh pinion seal and maybe axle bearings/seals and away I go. It's very sludgy inside, carrier bearings were locked up which made it difficult to remove the axle flange bolts: you can't turn the axles so you can't line up the little window to put a socket through with a rattle gun. All this festiness could just be from sitting collecting moisture in the last year or so.
 
After pulling it down further, I split the centre and found some shims behind the cones, not uncommon but these were quite worn and heat-affected. It could have been setup tight for speedway use so I'll be checking the pre-load and spider mesh on it on assembly. The cones seem OK, bit of corrosion inside the taper where they sit but I think are salvageable. Being a 28-spline unit, the axles and centre are worth hanging on to, but i'm fraid the rest is toast. The calipers, discs, gears, bearings are all too far gone.
 
The brakes seem to be an early disc setup (from say an XC) with vented discs/iron calipers. The axle flanges have a different shape to my current arrangement and are possibly incompatible with my non-vented, alloy caliper type from an XF ute.
 
So my plan is to:
 
* Source some early 2.92 gears
* Strip my housing with the 3.27/open/25 splines
* Use that housing with the 2.92/LSD/28 splines
* Install new bearings and seals throughout.
 
Early gears refers to the size of the ring gear bolts: from what I've read, early one had 3/8" LH thread Vs later 7/16" (possibly XD-onwards?). I have the diff in the coupe with 2.92s so I could strip that out. First I might see what a diff shop charges or an old set, might be easier that way.
 
Some pics so far:
 
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So i wasnt happy with the finish on the wheels, so i purchased a cheap wool polishing wheel set from Supercheap Auto that mount in a drill. 
Wheel on the left is hand polished, but on the right is the wheel polished with the wheels in a power drill. 
 


 
I then found out today, that a mob in the UK JBW make reproductions 13" wide steelies  i want 13x6s, they make them wider too. If i decide i dont like the RS wheels, ill be selling them and buying a set of 13x6 steelies 
 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183228350647

I'd happily use one. Without getting into a technical argument, I'd possibly go straight to the 4 barrel.

I'd happily use one. Without getting into a technical argument, I'd possibly go straight to the 4 barrel.

Got a second hand starter from rusty fords earlier..........and shes alive again woohoo👍

They never had cats so you wont need one. To be legal and "correct" you would need to just run all the emissions gear as factory. EGR, charcoal canister plumbed up etc.

I do have a known good ignition switch you can have for the price of postage if I can get it out in one piece, I'll have a look at it tommorow if you like.
The inhibitor switches on C4s do fail, you can get new genuine from the states, same on all C4s I reckon.
Get a helper to crank the car while you check the voltage on the trigger wire at the starter. If thats good I reckon solenoid or cable issue.
If you dont have a good 12V at the trigger wire, go back to the plug for the inhibitor switch. The plug sits just behind the engine, has four wires. The two fat ones are for the starter trigger, one comes from the barrel and goes through the switch, the other one comes back from the switch. Bridge the terminals on the plug and see if that makes a difference, or just check whats there with the ignition switch in the start position. If that doesnt help, id go right back to the barrel and see if you're getting that 12V feed with the key turned.
Just a process of finding where the signal is lost in the loom, if thats the issue.
Good luck, pretty frustrating issue. Out of interest what sort of starter do you have on it?

Before..

After!

Ok a little more progress on the wheel(s) 
i wasnt getting quite the result i wanted, so playing with different methods, i decided to go with 1200 dry then 1200 wet before the polish to finish it off. 
The polish, im using autosol as suggested, then buff that, and go over it with the RED (pink) Bowen's metal polish. 
I also discovered working under the fluro lights in the garage is deceiving. They look a lot worse in the garage under the fluros, but in the sun they look much better. 
So they were still looking a little cloudy, which was annoying the crap out of me  



 
This is where I got it to yesterday 👌 Nearly perfect. Just going to do a final light sand then polish again, and then paint


 
this is from PenLink last weekend. I sure will miss the 15s, but ill get them repaired one day. But ill strip and sell the tyres to cover the cost of the new 13" tyres

from Small Ford Sunday a few weeks ago 
 

Yeah the column is different, the wheel does indeed sit closer in an XD. 

Genuine Bosch if you can get it, I don't believe there is any other quality replacement. Aftermarket ones also chew the aux shaft because the gear is machined wrong.
If you're worried about reliability I'd get the Bosch one reconditioned. Now I sound like Sparky Dave!
All I'd do is fit new cap rotor and TFI while its out and throw it in. They generally work forever. New coil too while its accessible.

Genuine Bosch if you can get it, I don't believe there is any other quality replacement. Aftermarket ones also chew the aux shaft because the gear is machined wrong.
If you're worried about reliability I'd get the Bosch one reconditioned. Now I sound like Sparky Dave!
All I'd do is fit new cap rotor and TFI while its out and throw it in. They generally work forever. New coil too while its accessible.

Genuine Bosch if you can get it, I don't believe there is any other quality replacement. Aftermarket ones also chew the aux shaft because the gear is machined wrong.
If you're worried about reliability I'd get the Bosch one reconditioned. Now I sound like Sparky Dave!
All I'd do is fit new cap rotor and TFI while its out and throw it in. They generally work forever. New coil too while its accessible.

I'd like to see anyone get 22.5 Nm on a torque wrench.......

The specs are supplied simply to cover the manufacturer's arse when providing a maintenance/repair procedure. In my experience as a mechanic, there are very few things that actually need to be precisely torqued on a vehicle. They are:

Engine internals (including flywheel)
Diff internals (including pinion preload)
Automatic valve bodies and other internals
Wheel bearings

And rear caliper pin bolts on an older Ford (pre-EF) where the alloy is soft as shit and chews out when dickheads hammer the crap out of them with an impact gun turned up to 11.

So for most things, common sense is your friend. The length of the spanner is generally the right leverage to comfortably reach the correct tension on the bolt size it's designed for.

Don't grab a 3-foot breaker bar and reef on the 6mm bolts holding your radio in. Conversely, don't go tightening a suspension arm bolt with multigrips. That would be bad, m'kay?

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Torque is a twisting force applied to a shaft.
 
A Newton-metre is one kind of torque measurement when a linear force (N) is applied to the end of a one-metre lever. Sometimes quoted as kg-m (9.8N=1kg).
 
Foot-pounds is the same thing but instead measured in pounds acting on the end of a one foot lever.
 
Inch-pounds is a smaller measurement scale used on delicate things like valve bodies.
 
Torquing bolts is done using a torque wrench. It has an adjustable point at which it clicks to let you know when the right torque is reached.
 
Torque (or bolt tension) is specified so that the fastener is not under-or over-tightened. Some things are critical, other things really only need to be spanner-tight.
 
What exactly are you tightening?
 
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