Outback Jack

Ok guys, going to do a breakdown of how to tear down an Instrument Cluster and replace the Gears if your Odometer and Trip meter stop working.
This is the base model GL cluster.
 
Most common cause is the gear in the Speedo assembly loses a tooth and gets stuck in one position.
 
Ok, first of all you need to take Surround off of the Instrument cluster/Dash.
 
2 screws on top of dash under small square plastic covers....

2 screws, one each side under the switches for dash light dimmer and under switch for headlights.....

Then there are 2 more, one each side of the steering column that go up into the bottom of the surround.....

Once these screws are out, you can pull the surround forward and disconnect the electrical connectors to the side switches and get it out of the way.
 
Then you will see 2 plastic tabs at the top with screws, remove them.
Then at the bottom there are 2 plastic tabs with screws, remove them.
 
Then carefully roll the Instrument panel forwards as you remove it, so you can disconnect the Smartlock wiring plug, lower left and the 2 black wiring plugs at back of cluster(centre).
After this you can pull the cluster out and set up on a table somewhere.
 
Disassembly.....

 
Ok, to disassemble you need to remove 4 screws on the top that screw the white back to the black front panel....

 
Then remove ALL silver screws from the back panel.....

There are 3 different sizes, so take note of where they are from.
 
Then on the bottom of the cluster, there are 4 black plastic tabs....

These must be pushed down to disengage.
Tip: Start at one side while slightly levering from the centre.
Once all tabs are unlocked very gently lever around the 2 parts and it should come apart....

Put the plastic clear cover to one side.
 
Now you are left with this....

 
Grab the centre section with speedo like so.....

And gently remove.....

 
Remove the two screws in the face plate and invert, being careful not to damage the speedo needle assembly, use the hole it came out to rest it on....

 
Rotate the internals so the circuit board faces towards you.....

 
On the silver round cover there are two screws, remove these and gently remove cover and circuit board and lay down....
 
Then lift gear assembly off....

Flip it over....

 
You will most probably find one broken tooth....

Now the reason this happens is resetting the trip meter while moving.
Reset the Trip meter ONLY when vehicle is stationary.
 
Replace gear, reassemble everything in reverse order of the above breakdown and your done.
 
Please note, this assembly is missing the reset pin that triggers the Trip meter which goes through this hole and attaches via clip to the silver bar....

 
Hope that helps some of you get your Odometer/Trip meters going again.
 
New gears can be sourced on EBay for around $25 a set which is small gear cog and larger black cog, replace both at once.
 
NOS Trip meter reset pins are harder to find and expensive. (Around $50-60).

If you can find an old dead dash with good reset pin, that may be the best option.
 
Cheers.
 
Jack.
 
 
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hi guys
 
my 93 xg has a loud ticking and is very slugish.
when it is started (starts perfectly and new starter) has a very loud ticking in thee top end at the back of the head tick loud for 15-30 secs then u can hear it slowly get quieter till it is a very quiet but still there, after another 30-60 sec gets even fainter. if u try drive before it has stopped this process the ticking is super loud and u can feel the motor like rocking around.
once its done its thing and ur driving u can always hear a ticking.
all so it seams a bit slugish dont get me wrong it can pull a loaded trailer but its a ute when empty i should be able to wiggle the back end a bit. when u put ur foot down it goes but not like it wants to i dont know how t explain it.
new plugs and leads
all oils 
petrol filer 
starter motor
where should i start with ticking sounded like oil wasnt getting ther quick enugh so changed it to  10/30 helped a tiny bit but no
where should i start 
cherz guys

Schematics etc ......
XG Outback ute.
Twin Fuel Tank .



 
Done.
Now I have a better camera on my phone.

 
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I'm sure your correct on ea 2 being a stand alone loom, it would make sense as during ea/eb they made some pretty big changes so having the loom being separated makes sense, one thing with ea-eb looms is they had a separate trans controller and trans loom like the 5.0l did up until au, and while my memory is a bit foggy on some of this stuff (its probably been 15 years since i played around with any ea/eb's) I'm pretty sure that when smartlock was introduced the tcu was integrated into the ecu, if you use an ecu that is smartlock equipped it doesn't matter if you've used a smartlock loom or not the ecu has to have smartlock turned off for it to work

Wanting to eliminate excess wiring leads me to think of only a couple of ways and both could be more time consuming than pulling the dash out, you could un pick the engine and trans harness from the xg loom and discard the rest, this would let you setup the wiring to the engine as a stand alone and only tie into the existing loom at the ignition switch and alternator, this setup would require a j3 chip (or moates quaterhorse etc) to disable smartlock (you probably will need that anyway unless you put the whole loom from the xg including body control modules and steering column), you could do this with any e series loom, an el one would probably be ideal as they are the neatest factory loom and already have provisions for themo fans and a broad band manifold controller

Another route you could try is getting a barra loom and ecu mofied to run your sohc 4.0 as a stand alone unit, bill hooten and a few others on Facebook do these but they are all backed up for months so I can only guess how long you would have to wait, if you were game you could modify the loom yourself but the ecu would need to be re flashed to suit, and you would still have to get hold of a barra engine/trans loom and ecu

All done,I had to buy a tool to put the oil screen on,and my stand is leaning over,maybe I should take it off ?

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Mmmmmmm.....shiney Big Block......

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Ok I got it soughted and the finish line is not far away.

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460s are getting like the 400 ,very hard to find one,and std bore pfffff ,no one is bringing them in because our dollar is not good and freight has sky-rocketed from USA.

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Not sure mate. Good big blocks are getting harder to find. I just like watching you put them together.


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I still have the other block at 030 and managed to find a set of main caps but wondering if it's even worth paying $700 odd dollars to get it line bored ,if I did ,is a 030 block even worth that much ?

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Thats looking Awesome mate.
Doing great.

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Finally my parts arrived,nice edelbrock covers,water pump and tomorrow put oil pump and sump on,building this 460 from scratch has been a battle.

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Got the balancer on with new key,also timing pointer,man these are a big engine,very similar in size to the 400.

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Further Update: grew up in the States and  have family there so  im all sorted now..got a good deal!
2 barrel sniper master kit is sorted and on way.. I will do a thread on OZfalcon to show it’s fit up.
I could have gone the 4 barrel version, but for what I’m doing there’s no point.. the flow is around 500cfm from a 2 barrel Sniper  and I suspect it may atomise better on a mild 4.0 or 4.1.
 
im keeping the Redline Tourqer manifold for the moment to compare against others at a latter date.

Yeah thanks Jack it's almost done I just put the factory manifold back on it and it fit so good,I tossed the new stamped steel oven tray and put the felpro ones on it with a tad of gasket sealer in the corners and yeah my tiny engine stand is on the limit with this done and it still needs the oil pump and sump on it and its all done I think.

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Lol. That engine stand looks a bit weighted now.
Nice job on the motor, looks real nice.

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Got the heads on ,and rocker gear,preload was fine at 3/4 of a turn,correct oil drive is in the mail.

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Pistons are in ,chain is on,oil slinger and alloy cover also loosely bolted on for a look ,crank sleeve on,also got sent an incorrect oil drive it's about a inch too short, but overall it's going together as planned

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Awesome.....me likey.

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Awesome.....me likey.

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Got the rear painted and back on the stand and crank in with cam in and 95ft on the mains

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Ok block is cleaned and painted and put the core plug set in tomorrow will drop the crank in and maybe a piston or 2

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Well it could be , problem is evrytime I take a pic on that driveway the camera makes it look x5 worse than it actually is,if in the garage they seem to be fine,interesting thing about scratches I once took a 400 clevo crank to the machine shop to get it milled and he said that big scratch won't affect its performance,he could have easy said ahh yeah m8 $350 to mill it but he didn't and just got the crank linished and it was fine I guess maybe what angle the scratch or scouring is.

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I thinks it just run off from the still a bit dirty head bolt holes ,I took that picture about 1 minute after wd40 it and turning it around on the stand.

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