Outback Jack

Cheers Fellas, it's an idea I have but it's a very expensive idea, but requires an IRS to make it work properly. That looks quite doable. Maybe be the cheapest part. I don't need the diff just the shafts,arms, coil overs ,stub axles,hubs/brakes and sub frame. I've been pricing everything else up and it is double what I thought it would cost, just trying to decide if its worth doing when I could buy a fairly new car for the same money. Would be a bitchin project though...... Cheers for all your help on the IRS fellas. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

It's ok Sparky, after a bit of brain crunching I found a way to make it work with a live axle rear.Just needs a bit of engineering but doable. I will reveal all later in the year or early next year....hehehe. I may still need to go IRS but at least I know now to get it from a later model if I do. Thanks for your help. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Cheers Sparky, I don't particularly want IRS , it just makes the mods I want to do easier. I will keep searching for a solution... Always something. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Cheers Dean, I'll check it out. I don't need the diff, just the axles and suspension set up with wheel hubs etc. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

There's a Scat 1600 crank and bearings for sale on Gumtree over here and a lotus 1600 twin can head if your interested Panko. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Guys, Just doing a bit on Water for cooling systems and will look at Corrosion inhibitors and coolant a bit. Let's start with water..... Now there are 3 main areas of Water to look at: 1) Softness and Hardness 2) PH and it's effects on metals. 3) Rain water VS Distilled water VS R.O. water VS Tap water. Softness and Hardness: These are terms used to describe the mineral content or Total Dissolved Solids in a water source. The softer the water the less dissolved solids are in it. The harder the water the more dissolved solids it has. This can be measured in two ways... TDS or E.C. Total dissolved solids or electromagnetic current. P.P.M. Parts Per Million. For this write up I will be using P.P.M. PH OF WATER and effects on metals. PH measures whether the water is Acidic , Neutral or Alkaline. The lower the PH, the more Acidic the water is. (PH.4- very acidic) The higher the PH, the more Alkaline the water is. (PH.10-very alkaline) Neutral PH is around 7. Acidic water will eat into metals and Alkaline water will leave scale and mineral build up if the PPM is high. Tap water is usually around PH.8-9, so it does not eat away metal pipes. Slightly Alkaline. In a motor there are all sorts of metals that interact with each other. Alloys, steel, brass, copper etc, etc. Usually in an Acidic PH state in a motor Aluminum and Alloys will act like a sacrificial anode and be the first to be corroded away. Steel will rust and brass and copper will degrade. In an Alkaline PH state in a motor again Alloys and Aluminum are affected first and calcium and other minerals will fall out of suspension and bond with metals causing white scale build up. Usually see this if you use tap water in your motor. Ok, now you understand about Dissolved Solids measured in P.P.M and PH levels let's look at the different waters. TAP WATER- P.P.M. 200-300+ (World health standard for drinking water is MAX of P.P.M. 500.) PH- 8 to 9. So tap water is high in dissolved solids and mildly Alkaline to prevent pipe corrosion. Considered Mild to Hard water depending on PPM level. The PH will be pretty constant but P.P.M will vary depending on source. RAIN WATER- P.P.M- low and varied dependant on collection method. PH. - can also vary greatly dependant on collection method. Considered Soft water as rainwater is evaporated ocean salt water and most solids are left behind. Acidity/Alkalinity varies. DISTILLED WATER- P.P.M.- between 100-200. PH. - usually around 7-8. Is considered soft water as has low PPM and also is close to PH neutral. R.O. WATER (reverse osmosis).- P.P.M. - between 20-30 PPM. PH. - usually around 7-8. Is considered very soft water and is also very close to PH neutral. CHOOSING WATER FOR USE IN MOTORS. Now, based on all that information you will find you want a water that is low in dissolved solids and pretty PH neutral. TAP water is too high in dissolved solids and PH is also too high. Alkalinity high and pH high will cause scale and mineral build up. If goes acidic, will eat metal. Bad choice. RAIN water is good as it is low in dissolved solids but PH can vary. Soft enough but PH can be unknown. Not consistent enough. DISTILLED water is great as has low amount of dissolved solids and pretty PH neutral. Good choice for use with Corrosion inhibitor concentrate or to mix with coolant concentrate. Can be purchased from Supermarkets. R.O. water (reverse osmosis) is the best with P.P.M. of only 20-30 and a neutral P.H.- to slightly Alkaline. Also strips water of chlorine, impurities. Best choice for use with Corrosion Inhibitor concentrate or Premix Coolant concentrates. Need access to R.O. water filter or buy a set up.(around $80 inc filters). Both Distilled water and R.O. water can be used alone in the cooling system but I would advise using at least a corrosion inhibitor as extra insurance. Type B: Corrosion Inhibitors come in 2 types. Type B - Corrosion inhibitor ONLY. Type A - Corrosion inhibitor and Coolant or Antifreeze/Antiboil. Early Falcons use only Corrosion inhibitor and no coolant or anti freeze/anti boil. Really only needed in extreme heat or extreme cold. The use of coolant on the 4L sohc for example may lead to too lower temp reading and possibly affect the E.C.T. sensor. Causing them to run rich. The gauge may also be affected and read low. Thermostat for these motors should be 91C as they came out with..... Can use anywhere from 87-93C. I recommend Motorad thermostats.... Very similar to Factory except has air bleed or "rattler", and factory thermostat does not. Do Not use thermostats that have been drilled and touted as "performance" thermostats. These will lower the operating temp slightly, but enough for the ecu to read the temp as cooler and richen the Air Fuel Ratio and may even prevent/hamper Lean cruise mode. Motors like Clevos , Crossys , 4L sohc and Windsors only really need Corrosion Inhibitor and distilled or R.O. water. Coolant or AntiFreeze/AntiBoil really only needs to be used in extreme situations or with performance applications. OR if required by motor specs. Coolants are typically glycol mixed with water and dye added. (Glycol is actually clear.) The new generation of coolants are water free but require a special flushing agent be used before using the coolant. As there is no water in the mix, there is little to no corrosion. Evans Waterless coolants. Most cooling system problems can be fixed with proper radiator shrouds, correct thermostat and fan system. Coolant really shouldn't be used to fix an inefficient system. Hope this helps some people and explains why you don't use tap water in your cooling system. FORD ON! Outback Jack. That what you were after@SPArKy_Dave ?

Hey Mick, try just cleaning it with contact cleaner from how far you have it stripped down now. Spray it in, flick it into all positions multiple times, spray again and do same. After a few goes should clean all the dust out. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Gerg, Yeah, if you can just test the PH of the rainwater. Can use a pool test kit or strips, anything that measures PH. Just to make sure the PH is not too far out of whack. Let us know how you go. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

No probs mate. Gotta keep the good ol falcons going. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Haha. Cheers Sparky. I think it maybe affecting the ground circuit in the instrument cluster, they must share a common earth. I think the TFI module shorting or lifting it's earth, as the tacho signal has no Earth in its circuit until the cluster. Don't quote me on this though it's just a theory at the moment. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

And everyone thinks I'm a dumb arse. Glad you got it sorted mate. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

They can be cleaned with carby/throttle body cleaner, take off spray it in the two holes and turn upside down to empty it out. The Idle Speed Controllers are pretty durable. Goss do a decent replacement if you need one. If the clip is broken on the wiring loom side, just use run of the mill connectors until you can source a new plug. If it's broken on the ISC side, get one from the wreckers or buy a new one. If you don't want to spend money, just use spade connectors and fix the s*** connection. If you want new connectors try eBay or PEC. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Idle is too low mate. If manual should idle about 700rpm when at operating temp. When it's cold and warming up, idle speed controller should have it idling around 750-800rpm. The idle speed controller is on top of the throttle body, just make sure you haven't knocked the electrical connector and unplugged it. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

It would cause the tacho to be erratic. Not sure about the speedo. Bad earths usually cause instruments jumping around. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Have you tried testing or replacing the TFI module on the side of the dizzy? It may even be the heatsink paste is old and buggered and just needs old stuff scrapped off and new coating put on. Just be careful with the module, it doesn't pull off, after you undo the 2 screws, slide it downwards to disengage the connectors, if you pull it straight from the side you will break the connectors internally. Heatsink paste is Dow Corning 340 Try that, sounds like it's ok until it heats up. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Cheers Sparky, Just thought while I was doing mine it might come in handy for others. Ford On! Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Ford man runs pretty much same exhaust as me on my 4L SOHC.Pacemaker extractors, high flow cat, 2 1/2" pipe work, Hooker Aerochamber muffler, 2 1/2" into side pipe. Don't dump it at the diff, drone at 110km/hr will shit you after an hour or so. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Yeah mate, its the Ford workshop manual for XF. My pleasure.But actually it's a Nissan workshop manual for the XFN Nissan ute which was a rebadged Ford XF. But it's the only available way to get a proper XF workshop manual for Ute's. Most of the stuff for sedans is the same.

Ground is Black/Orange. Pin 1 on Dizzy. Hall effects ground. Supply is Brown. Pin 3 on Dizzy. Hall effects Power Signal is Yellow/Green. Pin 5 on Dizzy. PIP signal from dizzy to ecu. Here's a pic of connector set up..... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

I will never change your mind about putting a 1600 in Panko, it's your car and your money, so go for it. I don't know who your 'expert' is but I have pulled a 1300 out of a Mark 1 72 escort 2 door and bolted a 2L Pinto and Cortina gearbox straight in. No mods. I did have to move the radiator forwards but it was minor work. Stock diff, stock brakes, stock shocks. Later when I upgraded the power we decided to move the motor and box back 2 inches to pull the motor more behind the front wheels to improve handling/ weight distribution. Cleared the bubble easy. Guards were rolled and fibreglassed by me and 13's and 235 Eagers went on. That was a budget build. TP-1 pinto cam, polished and ported head running a 350 holley. Stock bottom. Made over 250RWHP on first dyno run. Was like a big go-cart. I did all the work myself except tailshaft and got help from a REAL escort expert when we moved the motor and box back 2". That car ran extractors (2L Capri ones, heated and bent to fit) no problem , cut at the collector and 3" pipe and super turbo muffler. The guy who helped me had a Twin Cam lotus 1600 MK1 and Rallye wide body, and was the go to guy for rally and track racing escorts. He built some beasts. Was a pleasure to know him and he helped me source my 2L head from an ex Wanneroo raceway track car. (Now Barbagellos). My Escort would chase down my mates Rotarys 12A extended port RX3 and 13B bridge ported R100. In the corners I was all over them. It went to Ravenswood drags back in the day and would wind the needle off the speedo. I also owned a 79 2L Escort Panelvan that was no slouch and ran truck valves in the head. So I think I know a lil about Eskies.

Let us know how you go mate. Might be helpful for others here. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

You do what you want Panko. I was doing up Escorts 20-25 years ago. The only Ford escort 1600 that revs harder than a Pinto 2L is the 1600 twin cam, because it's overhead cam. To get around radiator mods, you just move the engine mounts back 2". 2L Pinto is a beautiful motor, very easy to wake up with just a cam and nice carbs. I've been there done that with Eskies. I suggest you read Steve Vizards books on 2L Pintos, will change your life. I understand your not wanting to mod the escort too much, mods for 2L are minimal. Was just trying to save you a lot of time and money. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

2L pinto conversion would of been heaps cheaper even with 4speed they are great fun. Can even get twin cam heads for them. As the old saying goes. "No substitute for Cubic Inches". Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

That bit on Resistance above is spot on. ∆∆∆∆ Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Do you have the Ford XG Workshop manual Hendrix?, I have one here if you don't, pretty sure I've seen a section on sender resistance.I'll go back out to Shed and grab it..... There you go mate. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk