Outback Jack

Want to check a couple of fuses but yes the interior light fuse is one to check and Wiper fuse is also part of Smartlock. Does Smartlock light go out after you switch ignition ON or just stay blinking? Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hi guys just wondering if anyone knew if the IRS set up out of an AU could be made to work on an XG ute. I'm after IRS as I have a project in mind that runs IRS shafts. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Where? Hehehe... Cheers for posting up mate. I was pretty sure it would go in, just wondered how it mounted, now I know. Thanks for the ideas..... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Are you keeping that nice high nickel 400 block for your project or selling it off Chestnut? Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Welcome Crebe, I'm old skool too and like my carbies. I know for a six a manifold is $550 and good carb around $6-700. That's top gear, Aussiespeed 4 barrel manifold and Black Diamond 600 Quick Fuel carby. Then an MSD 6AL-2 and coil $650. Then MSD leads $150. There's a bit over 2K there and you still need a low volume fuel reg to feed carby at 3-5psi. And a Wideband O2 sensor set up to keep an eye on AFR's would be a good idea. Stand alone modules are available for auto boxes. So at about 2.5-3K and some new wiring ...you can pull the ecu out and drop kick it across the yard. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

It's a nub. Lol. Hey Chestnut, if your doing a few motors on the cheap, try flex hone to hone the bores. Much easier on the bores than stones etc. I used one on my 4L rebuild. Good bit of kit. Line boring/honing will always be better but if the bores aren't bad and just need a hone, the Flex hone is more expensive than stone hones but does a better more even job. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

I run 7" rims all the way round. I could see the rear taking 9" fairly easy, limited by the leafspring and the inner guard lip. That offset is the key, I'm sure one of the guys here will be able to help you further with Wheels and Tyres. Biggest I've heard of on an untubbed XF/XG with leafsprings was around 275-85? I know 265 will fit. It's that offset that's important with fatties. I got 7" rims with All Terrain 4x4 tyres on it, but I live out in the country. Post up some pics of your XG and if the 12 slotters are in good nick, hold onto them. Old blokes like me love them. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey mate, 225 in 14 on front, no worries. Rears should take a 265, but just depends what offset the rims are. I run 15" on my XG with 215 all the way round. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Ash, I use penrite full synthetic diff oil. Been real good, no noise at all. Go for a drive before you dump the diff oil, get it all thin. Then just bung in the Penrite and never look back. Best diff oil ever. I run an LSD and this stuff really lasts and has good colour even after a year. Full Synthetic rules in diffs. I use Penrite Semi Synth in the Gearbox and that's great as well. Gary Neumann at Autopro should have some in Donny. Ask him to sing "Cars'. Always funny....

Not all XG have the flat gasket. Mine has the cast in half moons and skinny gasket set up. I have a stack of flat rocker cover gaskets here from gasket sets that have the wrong gasket. Must be early XG have the flat and late model the skinny moulded one. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Mate it depends on what the EA gasket is like, if it's the same as AU and the bolt holes line up, then the rocker cover should work. But if your head is like mine on my ED/XG and has a half moon seal front and back, the rocker cover will only fit that type of head. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Maybe I stand corrected..... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Different rocker ratios mate, they will fit, but your valves won't work too well...or do you mean rocker cover? Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

That shouldn't make any difference, there's a rubber sealing strip across the front and the canopy sits on top not butts up to the rear of trim. Should be fine. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Should fit no worries Wok. XG and XH have the same rear section. Its pretty much E series from the front of the doors forward on an XH. XF, XG and XH all share a common design in the rear section.p Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

I agree with Gerg with above info. For a crossy, 10 degrees at 0-500rpm means an idle at 12 degrees. Then try a curve with more points, I think from memory a rough guide is 2 degrees for every 500rpm. So at 0-500rpm 10degrees 500-1000rpm 12 degrees 1000-1500rpm 14 degrees 1500-2000rpm 16 degrees 2000-2500rpm 18 degrees 2500-3000rpm 20 degrees 3000-3500rpm 22 degrees 3500-4000rpm 24 degrees 4000-4500rpm 26 degrees 4500-5000rpm 28 degrees 5000-5500rpm 30 degrees 5500-6000rpm 32 degrees. This will give you a great base curve to tune from. The MSD 6AL series like to have multiple reference points. That timing will be pretty good, I set up a crossy with 600 holley and that curve. It's a good starting point for all timing set ups. Just add in an extra 2 degrees per 500rpm to whole table if you want to peak at 34degrees @ 5500-6000rpm. That would mean you have a 0-500 of 12 degrees. Around 14 degrees at idle. You can thank@ando76 for that, he's the one that gave me the info on how to set up a good base curve.

It's a Boy! ..... Nice blue mate. Good to see you progressing along nicely. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Ali always oxidizes mate, hence the dull finish. Now you have all the crap off it, hit it with that phosphorous acid based cleaner, give it a few sprays and scrubs and watch it shine. Just don't let the acid dry out on the manifold will make run marks etc. Spray bottle, wait 10 minutes, scrub with clean brush, hose off. Do that 3-4 times and it will be sweet. Brass wheel will work but it beats the texture down. Go the acid mate and never look back. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Looking good Chestnut. Got to love a Big bore Ford V8. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Chestnut, try this Ali cleaner, it's a phosphoric acid. Brings up cast Ali like brand new. Use a spray bottle, and spray it on neat or 50/50 with water. But remember to add the acid to the water if you mix it, not the other way around or it will splatter and burn you. Ali gearbox from this...... To this..... Notice it worked best on the cast extension housing. I spray it on, let it sit for 10-15 minutes then spray again and scrub with a brush. Wash off with water. Will come up like new. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Try 1234, its usually the default pin. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Good thinking Hendrix, I reakon that's it too. ^^^ Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Start looking at wrecked older Ford trucks Chestnut. Quite a few rocked 460 big blocks. The first thing you do with a 460 is throw the heads in the bin, cause they are s*** and need so much work to get them to flow properly it's cheaper to buy Ali heads that flow heaps better. So you only need a short motor, then whack on a set of after market heads. I saw a completely rebuilt 460 on eBay a couple weeks ago for 8 grand, that's a drop in complete motor. 400 is a waste of time. Stroker 51 or 460 if you want cubes. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Ok guys, going to do a breakdown of how to tear down an Instrument Cluster and replace the Gears if your Odometer and Trip meter stop working. This is the base model GL cluster. Most common cause is the gear in the Speedo assembly loses a tooth and gets stuck in one position. Ok, first of all you need to take Surround off of the Instrument cluster/Dash. 2 screws on top of dash under small square plastic covers.... 2 screws, one each side under the switches for dash light dimmer and under switch for headlights..... Then there are 2 more, one each side of the steering column that go up into the bottom of the surround..... Once these screws are out, you can pull the surround forward and disconnect the electrical connectors to the side switches and get it out of the way. Then you will see 2 plastic tabs at the top with screws, remove them. Then at the bottom there are 2 plastic tabs with screws, remove them. Then carefully roll the Instrument panel forwards as you remove it, so you can disconnect the Smartlock wiring plug, lower left and the 2 black wiring plugs at back of cluster(centre). After this you can pull the cluster out and set up on a table somewhere. Disassembly..... Ok, to disassemble you need to remove 4 screws on the top that screw the white back to the black front panel.... Then remove ALL silver screws from the back panel..... There are 3 different sizes, so take note of where they are from. Then on the bottom of the cluster, there are 4 black plastic tabs.... These must be pushed down to disengage. Tip: Start at one side while slightly levering from the centre. Once all tabs are unlocked very gently lever around the 2 parts and it should come apart.... Put the plastic clear cover to one side. Now you are left with this.... Grab the centre section with speedo like so..... And gently remove..... Remove the two screws in the face plate and invert, being careful not to damage the speedo needle assembly, use the hole it came out to rest it on.... Rotate the internals so the circuit board faces towards you..... On the silver round cover there are two screws, remove these and gently remove cover and circuit board and lay down.... Then lift gear assembly off.... Flip it over.... You will most probably find one broken tooth.... Now the reason this happens is resetting the trip meter while moving. Reset the Trip meter ONLY when vehicle is stationary. Replace gear, reassemble everything in reverse order of the above breakdown and your done. Please note, this assembly is missing the reset pin that triggers the Trip meter which goes through this hole and attaches via clip to the silver bar.... Hope that helps some of you get your Odometer/Trip meters going again. New gears can be sourced on EBay for around $25 a set which is small gear cog and larger black cog, replace both at once. NOS Trip meter reset pins are harder to find and expensive. (Around $50-60). If you can find an old dead dash with good reset pin, that may be the best option. Cheers. Jack. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

I use Lovell springs, they do decent sets. Better than cheaper makes. My ute has Mustang spring saddles from the states with Roller bearings instead of the rubber bushes. Very smooth and always keeps good spring alignment through bumpy corners. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk