Outback Jack

No probs mate. Just check the cable, make sure its mounted properly. And check the bracket for the clutch cable near the box is round the right way or compare bracket to old one difference in brackets could also be something to look at. Best of luck. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey mate, at the firewall there is a nut for adjusting the cable. Loosen for lower pedal, tighten for higher pedal, can do it by fingers. 5 minute fix.Just check where the cable goes onto the arm of the clutch, that that's all seated properly first and it's all good where it joins the pedal arm... Just to be sure, to be sure, to be sure...... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Looking good mate. Got to love the look of fresh bores. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

I:d have a quick word with the machine shop mate. Probably bearing suits another purpose with 2 oil galley holes. No biggy, but I'd check with them first. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Would they be the bolts for the centre cap or front? Just check the castings in the bolt holes of big end caps. ARP new bolts would be cheap insurance on the big ends and mains. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

OK, just thought I would put this up for people who were looking at replacing the head gasket on their 4L SOHC motor. There are a few different head gaskets available for the 4L. From left to right are.... (Left) Endurotec Composite head gasket with silicon embossed seals. (Centre) Permaseal Composite head gasket. (Right) Permaseal AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket with Viton coating. The 4L SOHC motor from EA-EL come from the factory with a Composite style head gasket. This has steel fire rings around the bore holes and a steel inner layer sandwiched between 2 composite layers. This can also have silicon sealing rings to help with sealing water jackets , oil galleys etc as with this Endurotec Composite head gasket.... The 4L SOHC motor in the AU came from the factory with a Multi Layer Steel (MLS) style head gasket. This is an aftermarket Permaseal AU style MLS head gasket..... This is usually 3-5 layers of stainless steel with embossing around all the ports and a rubber/viton layer to help with sealing. Now it is common practice for people to replace the older style factory Composite head gaskets on EA-EL with the AU style Multi Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets. This will increase compression on the EA-EL motors as the gasket is thinner and can increase head gasket life and strength for boosted applications. Now if you are rebuilding an engine and have had the head and block faces machined, it's a no brainer. Switch to the AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket. Just make sure you mention to the machinists you want the faces of the head and block to suit, as the MLS head gaskets require a much smoother surface on both faces for correct sealing. Usually 15Ra-50Ra (up to MAX of 70Ra) Blocking the surfaces may not even be enough to get a smooth enough surface. Also try to avoid any sealants, install dry. The coating on the MLS needs to be able to seal by itself and expand and contract with the steel it is bonded to. But what happens if your not able to machine both surfaces? What happens if the head is machined but not the block? What if you have fire ring marks or corrosion marks/low spots? Chances are you won't be able to get the required finish to run an MLS head gasket and get it to seal properly without machining the head and block to suit. MLS gaskets are less forgiving of surface imperfections. This is a block that needed a head gasket replacing. It has been block sanded already, but as you can see, there are still imperfections in the surface. These include Fire ring marks and Corrosion marks. The block is super smooth but has imperfections. But not to fear..... While machining of the block and head would be the ideal thing to do for a perfect finish, it's not always possible. I suggest at LEAST the head should be machined....... And the block then block sanded with fine wet and dry, a lubricant and alternating between 45 degrees one way, then 45 degrees the opposite way with a Large sanding block. Composite head gaskets are a lot more forgiving than Multi Layered Steel head gaskets when it comes to surface finish. They can better seal imperfections in the mating surfaces. They require 30Ra-110Ra, which is a much rougher and wider range. Composite head gaskets with silicon sealing rings can give help with dodgy water port sealing. This doesn't mean you can just slap them in. Good surface preparation is still required. Composite head gaskets can also hold boost up to about 20psi, so don't worry too much about using them on most N/A applications. Better to have a head gasket that seals properly and works than a fancy one that can't because of imperfect mating surfaces. This is what happens to an MLS head gasket if installed on too rough a finish..... That was a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket, less than 500km old. Installed by a 'mechanic'. Also if installing a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket to an EA-EL motor, check the rivet on the rear of the gasket doesn't foul and get stuck between the head and block..... The permaseal MLS-R has rather large rivets, the one on the rear will foul. The permaseal MLS has smaller rivets but I would still check the clearance. Just a couple of things to keep in mind if deciding to go the MLS route. I could install another MLS head gasket but chances are it would fail again due to surface roughness. My Composite head gasket lasted 300,000km from the factory before it failed, so if installed properly it will last. I will leave the MLS until everything is machined properly to suit it on the next rebuild...... Happy Head Gasketing! Outback Jack.

Ok, its the plug to the back of the coil mate, its the same as an injector plug, clips on , but if the clip that locks it in has come off it can slide off. Check that mate, probably it , the clips fly off sometimes if the wiring is pulled. It's on same bit of harness as starter wiring. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

No probs mate. Others wires to check are connected.... Pink wire that runs across top of throttle body and there's a wire that earths to the block in front of the dizzy. Best of luck, I'm finished busting my arse for the day, so just quote me when you reply, and I shall appear as if by magic.. . Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Never fear.... Outback is here! . Ok mate, get under the ute. The loom that goes to the starter also has the wiring for the coil, one connector goes to a radio suppressor on the coil, the other goes to the starter motor. That's the best place to get to the wiring. Probably as you say, just knocked something off. Let me know how you go. Sorry I was busy ripping out a garden bed and massive bush to get my JBA round the back. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

No probs Mate, of you have too many dramas let me know. Good luck. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Dirty, That running a J pipe and stock manifold? Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Yeah, fuel line on end of pick up. But a filter sock on the end will stop you sucking up crud in the tank, extra protection.The standard fuel pump will be fine mate. With the adjustable resistor, all you can do is say...half fill the tank. Tank is 68L, so 34L. Then just wire up the sender wire to your guage and see where it sits. If its close to 1/2 you may be OK. You don't need to calibrate the guage, the adjustable resistor does it, once you set it up right. On the XG tank there are two wires coming out. One is power for the fuel pump, the other is the + wire to the fuel guage/sender set up. The wire on the right is the sender one. If your wondering where earth is, its the tank bolted to the chassis. If you don't have any luck, maybe try put a wire from the sender set up screw on top to earth. And just see if the guage works if you do. So anywhere on that + wire, just put it in line and adjust as necessary. You probably want to try something less than the total resistance, so under 200ohm. 180ohm is Full tank, so say around 1/2 is 90ohm.....you just adjust the resistor as necessary to get the guage to read 1/2 tank, rest should take care of itself.

I'll make it easy for you. I went got my Ford Workshop Manual... XG fuel tank sender. Empty- 3.5 ohm Half Full- 66 ohm+/- 1.4 Full- 176 ohm +/- 3 Measurements... Empty.... 0mm Half Full..... 78mm Full.....183mm. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hi Grr, it will only be the resistance that differs.So grab a multi meter and find the resistance at empty , 1/2 tank and Full. (Take the fuel sender out to do this.) Then hook up to your guage and see if the positions at Empty, 1/2 , Full match up, if not, you will need to get a variable resistor in the fuel senders range and adjust the resistance until it matches. Variable resistor goes on the 12v wire from sender that goes to your gauge. You will also need to put a fuel line on the fuel pick up, where the old EFI pump was, with a filter on the end, then mount your low pressure fuel pump under the back, lower than the tank if possible. And don't forget to blank off the return line on the sender set up. Fuel out is the left one. Return is the right one. Hope that helps. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

You have an air bypass, so the XF ISC probably has a different level of bypass to the EA and EL series. As the later series only use the ISC to control idle etc. Don't worry Panko, I have had the same problem with the j3 on my ute with EL ecu and XH ecu. No j3......no rev hang.... It's like you say, the deceleration just hangs and takes ages to drop. With the XF ISC, try setting base idle again. You may find it comes good. If not, blanking plate on the ISC and just run the air bypass. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

EB/ED wiring-solenoid is facing motor, the large end towards the fender. So holding solenoid up, holes away from you. Left is the outside of throttle plate (free air but filtered), right is inside the throttle plate.( used as air bypass to manifold at idle). Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

I would go back to the EB one , you seemed to have more success with that. I now run EL/XH ecu with ED/XG ISC no probs. Setting the idle exactly in the order I listed is the only way to get it to play ball. That's for a manual around 700-800rpm at idle. Start car, disconnect ISC while running. RPM should drop to 500-600rpm. If too low and stalls turn idle up 1/2 turn and try again. It can be a bit of a s*** but once you get it in the sweet spot, you should get an 800-900rpm cold idle , 700-750/800rpm warm idle. Hope that helps. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Ok, this should be of help to some of you.... MSD module is being used just as a Spark Multiplier. Set to ECU on MSD as the Trigger. Zero the curve. Old Coil - is the Trigger for MSD white wire. Old Coil + is the 12v for the small red switched 12v wire for MSD Put motor into timing mode or cut SPout wire, then set base timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Reconnect SPout wire to TFI or take out of timing mode. Done. Have come to the conclusion after putting in a few timing curves....I am never going to be able to match the fluid dynamics of the EFI system with a static timing curve. The two were fighting each other. So if you just want better Spark and are keeping the EFI with ECU.... Just buy a normal 6A and a Blaster SS coil and MSD leads. Save the extra money. If you are going carby/ turbo/ charger or NOS, then 6AL2 all the way. I was triggering direct from the PIP wire to the MSD via White/blue wire and a cut SPout wire, running a curve on MSD and timing locked at dizzy at 40 degrees BTDC. I was also alerted to the fact that the EFI also uses the PIP signal and tapping into it can degrade/ lower the voltage/square wave to the injectors, causing problems. Triggering from the ECU is way easier and the performance is pretty good with a mild cam. At least you know the two are matched. I bypassed all the ignition wiring at first trying to isolate my miss. But the ignition wiring is not the culprit. It missed when using completely different wiring. So then I knew It was fine to trigger from the ECU. I'm sure with a MAP sensor on the MSD you could get better results, but the ECU is already doing that, so hooking into it is a no brainer. Few shots of the MSD set up.... I just got mine hooked up and running properly...... https://youtu.be/Cg0vDAUw_KA mwahahaha..... It lives! Sounds OK for a Mild 4.0L sohc.

Ute is running well. Job done. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Try redoing the idle setting.Run the car until warm, unplug the ISC and set the RPM to 550-650rpm. Don't rev it or anything while doing this. Then plug the ISC back in and it should idle around 700-750rpm. It's the T.I. j3 that causes the rev hang. When you back off the accelerator usually in the ecu is a bit of retard that is added as you decelerate. Their advice is always it's the ISC. What a crock. More like sloppy tuning. I found it also using an MSD with a curve and no ecu input, the rev hang was a bit stupid. So now I let the ECU control timing, no more problem. I'm running a stock XH ecu with very little rev hang now. There will be a way to add the retard in deceleration on the j3 but I don't know where. Sorry mate. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

The odometer gear has probably lost a tooth mate. Its an instrument panel out job. There's a tutorial I did on replacing the gearsets on an XG ute. Could be speedo gear on the transmission....just check it's alright. Biggest tip- Only reset your odometer while stationary. Doing it while moving will snap a tooth out of the plastic gear. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Just drove 55km, the ute is running well. TDC base timing and I'm hitting 15's+ regularly in AFRs while cruising. Good result. Edit: 10Btdc was better, so changed it back. Raining Lions and Rottweiler's here......

Hehe. I forgot that I'm running the XH ecu so will set the base timing to '0' or T.D.C. tomorrow before going for a drive. It's at 10btdc at the moment but that's base timing for an XG/ED ECU. That should further improve things. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Mate, ok..... Wiring .... This is from the deck..... Black- Earth Orange/Green- left speaker dash negative. Orange/ Black - left speaker dash positive. Grey/Green- right speaker dash negative. Grey/Black- right speaker dash positive. Brown to Parklamps. ? Blue/ White -12v fused off rad/CIG lighter. Green/Yellow- to Smartlock and instruments via interior light See pics for more details , match the wire numbers to the pins in the plug diagram below.... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Bear , I find it interesting. I make mistakes along the way, but I'm human. So s*** happens. Get there in the end. Gotta remember I'm from a Caveman era where we filed our own points and tuned carbies with an ear and a beer.... He he. Definitely programmable is the way to go with Carby or Boosted projects. Not really needed if just looking for better spark with an EFI / ECU motor. Handy to have though.....for future pursuits in power..... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk