Crazy2287

What it says on the box.
The stock EFI temp sensor on a crossy.

0.5ºC - 86650 Ω
19.0ºC - 26000 Ω
99.8ºC - 2130 Ω

For use in aftermarket ECU if retaining the factory sensor.
I'm doing a huckout and I Just found the bit of paper i wrote this on circa 2006.

Also, stock injectors 0280150-726 # 86DA-AA 18.66lb/H (196cc/m) 14.0ohm Est max hp 39.

Hey man, I've done about 300 ks so far, all over the beautiful roads we have out here at Bathurst 😜
Lots of twisty, windy and potholed roads on my way to work. I duck across past Tarana to get to work at Oberon.
 
So much better with the new shocks in it. Handles a lot better and I'm not slamming into the chassis/bumpstops everytime I run over a pebble.
 
So all in all pretty happy with them, especially for the price.

You said...
 
Take the gear oil out of the T5
Open the bottle of DexIII
And put it in the T5.

Rawdeal.  If you intend on putting transmax z in your tremec t5, then i will be forced to extend my dog kicking clause to inc any dogs in your possession for a maximum penalty of 10 kicks per year for 20 years.  

First,
Just use a good quality DEXIII.
I say again. IF YOU HAVE A NON-World-Class series T5 TRANSMISSION, USE DEXIII OIL!
Tremec stipulate this in their service manual and info packs on the transmission and this info is available online, on the tremec website.
Whats that, you just arrived in this thread and you've got gear oil in your world class T5???? TAKE IT OUT AND FILL WITH DEXIII, OR I WILL COME TO YOUR HOUSE AND KICK YOUR DOG, AND IF YOU DON'T HAVE A DOG, I WILL BUY YOU ONE ON YOUR BIRTHDAY, WAIT TILL IT GROWS UP, THEN COME TO YOUR HOUSE AND KICK IT.
If you mechanic friend tells you to put gear oil in. They are WRONG.
If your local transmission "specialist" fills it with gear oil, You have my permission to leave them a scathing review on Google(tm)

Here:
http://www.tremec.com/anexos/TRSM-T5-0510-R1_173.pdf
Section 2, Para 2-4
2-4. APPROVED LUBRICANT. Most T5 transmission models use DexronÒ II automatic transmission fluid. Refer the vehicle owner’s manual or service manual for lubricant specifications. CAUTION Do not mix different bands or types of transmission lubricant. DO NOT USE GEAR OIL IN THE T5 TRANSMISSION SINCE THIS MAY DAMAGE THE BLOCKING RING MATERIAL.
Step 1, Pick up a bottle of DexIII
Step 2, Turn it over and read "suitable where DEX1,2,3 is specified"
Step 3, TAKE THE GEAR OIL OUT, AND PUT THIS IN YOUR T5 (Disclaimer: as long as its WC spec)


Okay, sorry, Tangent. Moving on.

I post the information below not as a statement of fact, but simply as information. It should be cross referenced and you should draw your own conclusion as to the effectiveness of oil additives.
Here i refer to Nulon g70 and it's PTFE additive claims.
Disclaimer: I have used Nulon g70 in my own T5 with DexIII, And was once an advocate for it. I have never been able to fully make up my mind about this as i "felt" i experienced smoother shifting with the g70. But was never able to actually substantiate this claim.
My biggest "Don't do it" for this topic has always been "If this stuff is as good as it says, then the engineers that spend their careers designing and mixing oils, would be putting it in there themselves. Who am i to decide that these engineers don't know what they are doing, and take it upon myself to tamper with their product?"

The TL:DR for the below is: PTFE has no place as an additative, the company that created the compound said so. No independent study has ever proven benefits to it's use"
Where it says "Slick 50" it's pretty much an american version of a PTFE additive
and with that i give you this:
 
 

Slick 50 was subject to a class action lawsuit and at least another independent one.
DuPont refused to sell them PTFE so they used cheap clone PTFE that was rubbish. Not that PTFE particles have any place in an engine





Out of the frying pan …

One friction modifier whose efficacy is the center of much attention is polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE or TFE, for short, the generic name for DuPont Chemical's Teflon), of which there is a family of similar yet distinct formulations. PTFEs boast the lowest coefficient of friction of any known material. Back in 1980, DuPont told everybody that their studies showed PTFE offered "no significant benefits as an engine additive." This statement set off a storm of controversy that still has DuPont spokespeople walking on eggs. However, you will notice that none of the PTFE additive suppliers are allowed to use the word "Teflon" in their advertisements or product information.

For most people "Teflon" calls up the mental image of a no-stick frying pan. PTFE engine oil treatments work quite a bit differently than the PTFE in a cooking utensil, however. When coating a frying pan the metal is spotlessly cleaned in prepara tion for the application of PTFE. This situation is never going to happen spontaneously in a motor, no matter what you use as a pour-in cleaning agent.

As a motor oil additive, PTFE powder is held in suspension in a liquid carrier. Because most (if not all) PTFE resins are more or less tailored for their end use, and because few (if any) of the available powders have been tailored for use as an oil additive, PTFE oil additive marketers must select a PTFE that was compounded for some other purpose (such as frying pans, wire insulation, etc.).

Powders come in different particle sizes, with the smaller sizes typically costing a bit more than the larger sizes. For those who can not afford (or find a source for) the size they want, custom grinding houses can take a less expensive 400 to 500 micron powder, freeze it with liquid nitrogen, and grind it to whatever size is needed. Most of the PTFE oil additives use a particle anywhere from 20 microns down to the sub-micron size.

The very characteristic of PTFE that makes it so slippery also makes it tough to get it where the action is in the motor. For this reason, the carrier liquid is often an affinity agent that bonds the PTFE to the friction areas. These take the form of chemicals such as tricresyl phosphate (TCP) and triaryo phosphate (TAP). The use of the right affinity agent has the positive side effect of boosting lubrication performance whether or not there is any PTFE involved. Some of the affinity agents are so tenacious that it is jokingly said you could lubricate your engine with water if it had enough affinity agent in it. Because of this, some high-performance oils (such as Synthoil) are blended to include affinity agents from the start.

Listening to some of the claims made for PTFE you might get the impression that it is the solution to almost any problem you might have, real or imagined. So why aren't the Big Oil companies putting it in their products?

Most of the oil companies are reluctant to discuss what is or is not in their oil. Off the record, however, many oil company spokespeople express concern that as a solid, PTFE does not stay in suspension forever. If the oil sits for too long the PTFE will settle out; an unacceptable situation for the oil companies we talked to. And as difficult as it is to get the PTFE in suspension in ideal situations, once combustion by-products and oxidation begin to change the chemical composition of the oil, keeping the PTFE in suspension poses a whole new set of problems.

Most oil company engineers also cited additive package balance as a major consideration. Whether talking about pour point depressants or oxidation inhibitors, each felt that whatever the gain in friction reduction the price was too high in other areas of lubricant performance.

If a PTFE additive sounds good to you, the best bet is to contact the manufacturer for test data that can be correlated against other known good lubricants. The Sequence IIID, Sequence VD, and L-38 tests previously mentioned, for example, are industry-wide standards that readily allow comparison against traditional lubricants. The manufacturer that can back up its claims with test results is a lot more convincing than the one with beautiful sales brochures filled with unsubstantiated claims.




Slick 50 and other engine oil additives supposedly reduce engine wear and increase fuel efficiency.

You may have heard the commercial or seen the ad:

Multiple tests by independent laboratories have shown that when properly applied to an automotive engine, Slick 50 Engine Formula reduces wear on engine parts. Test results have shown that Slick 50 treated engines sustained 50 percent less wear than test engines run with premium motor oil alone.

There are about 50 other products on the market which make similar claims, many of them being just duplicate products under different names from the same company. The price for a pint or quart of these engine oil additives runs from a few dollars to more than $20. Do these products do any good? Not much. Do they do any harm. Sometimes.

What's in these miracle lubricants, anyway? If they're so wonderful, why don't car manufacturers recommend their usage? Why don't oil companies get into the additive business? Where are these studies mentioned by Petrolon (Slick 50)? Probably in the same file cabinet as the tobacco company studies proving the health benefits of smoking.

The basic ingredient is the same in most of these additives: 50 weight engine oil with standard additives. The magic ingredient in Slick 50, Liquid Ring, Matrix, QM1 and T-Plus from K-Mart is Polytetrafluoroethylene. Don't try to pronounce it: call it PTFE. But don't call it Teflon, which is what it is, because that is a registered trademark. Dupont, who invented Teflon, claims that "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines." But what do they know? They haven't seen the secret studies done by Petrolon (Slick 50).

PTFE is a solid which is added to engine oil and coats the moving parts of the engine.

However, such solids seem even more inclined to coat non-moving parts, like oil passages and filters. After all, if it can build up under the pressures and friction exerted on a cylinder wall, then it stands to reason it should build up even better in places with low pressures and virtually no friction.

This conclusion seems to be borne out by tests on oil additives containing PTFE conducted by the NASA Lewis Research Center, which said in their report, "In the types of bearing surface contact we have looked at, we have seen no benefit. In some cases we have seen detrimental effect. The solids in the oil tend to accumulate at inlets and act as a dam, which simply blocks the oil from entering. Instead of helping, it is actually depriving parts of lubricant" (Rau).

In defense of Slick 50, tests done on a Chevy 6 cylinder engine by the University of Utah Engineering Experiment Station found that after treatment with the PTFE additive the test engine's friction was reduced by 13.1 percent, the output horsepower increased from 5.3 percent to 8.1 percent, and fuel economy improved as well. Unfortunately, the same tests concluded that "There was a pressure drop across the oil filter resulting from possible clogging of small passageways." Oil analysis showed that iron contamination doubled after the treatment, indicating that engine wear increased (Rau).

the FTC and Slick 50

In 1997, three subsidiaries of Quaker State Corp. (the makers of Slick 50) settled Federal Trade Commission charges that ads for Quaker State's Slick 50 Engine Treatment were false and unsubstantiated. According to the FTC complaint, claims such as the following made in Slick 50 ads falsely represented that without Slick 50, auto engines generally have little or no protection from wear at start-up and commonly experience premature failure caused by wear:

"Every time you cold start your car without Slick 50 protection, metal grinds against metal in your engine."

"With each turn of the ignition you do unseen damage, because at cold start-up most of the oil is down in the pan. But Slick 50's unique chemistry bonds to engine parts. It reduces wear up to 50% for 50,000 miles."

"What makes Slick 50 Automotive Engine Formula different is an advanced chemical support package designed to bond a specially activated PTFE to the metal in your engine."

In fact, the FTC said, "most automobile engines are adequately protected from wear at start-up when they use motor oil as recommended in the owner's manual. Moreover, it is uncommon for engines to experience premature failure caused by wear, whether they have been treated with Slick 50 or not.

If you can fit an elec water pump in the lower rad hose area of the bay, then you could cut the whole front off the pump and cap it up.

You CANNOT be fucking serious. Is this real life? Who ever manufactured these needs to be fucking castrated. That's borderline fucking INTENT to cause harm right there. OMFG WTF am i even looking at?

Dx3 is what most of us use in the astra pumps as this suits our power steering pump, and I've heard of no reported failures yet. 

The MSD 6530 sounds like a fkn winner! If your running carby and want performance on a dizzy it sounds like it's the best option.
 
I'm running an inductive system. TFI dizzy and high energy single coil pack controlled by Megasquirt ECU. Gets good spark energy and superior duration compared to an capacitive (ie MSD) system but it's a no go zone above 6000rpm if you use a dizzy as it will exceed the duty cycle of the coil.
If you want to rev over 6000rpm on a dizzy you pretty much have to go capacitive system or you'll be sacrificing your dwell times = less spark.
Make no mistake however, MSD is a very good system. It's proven. Throwing out an MSD to switch to inductive on a dizzy would be silly. However, if you are YET to upgrade your ignition system, and are not planning on exceeding 6000rpm. Inductive should be considered.
 
I mentioned COP and CPP before and there were a few questions.
COP and CPP stands for Coil on Plug and Coil Per Plug Respectively. The difference is COP the coil connects directly to the plug, there is no spark lead. With CPP the coils are mounted remotely and a lead run to the plug.
COP and CPP systems take out the dizzy all together, a single coil fires each plug. This gives less variation in timing, greater reliability and less resistive points for loss in spark energy.
The coils duty is 1/6th sequential or 1/3 wasted, that of a dizzy coil. So, you can run full dwell well above 10,000rpm for max spark on an inductive system.
 
COP/CPP waste spark means exactly that. It is a coil on plug or a coil per plug installation that uses only a crank trigger to run.
 
To expand,
To get the correct timing on a dizzy you only need a signal every TDC. So for a 6 cylinder you need 6 signals per camshaft rotation. The dizzy sends the spark to the correct plug.
WIthout the dizzy you need to tell the ECU which coil to fire. So it needs to know TDC on number 1 cylinder so it can correctly sequence the firing order. The first version of this is a trigger wheel on the crank.
 
There are 720 degrees crankshaft rotation, per ignition event, per cylinder.
Meaning the computer only knows TDC on cylinder 1. NOT if it is TDC compression or TDC exhaust stroke.
Problem? The solution is easy. The ECU simply fire's on both!
 
There will be a spark at TDC exhaust AND TDC compression. One spark ignites the fuel mix. and the other... does nothing. As it's sparking against no compression (the exhaust valve is open)and into exhaust fumes. Therefore it is 'Wasted'
 
Thats where it comes from. Waste spark means every second spark on each cylinder is 'wasted'
 
To get full sequential spark, you need to know if the engine is on the exhaust, or compression stroke. This information is picked from the Camshaft via a camshaft position sensor.
 
Questions? =P

TFI ignition module is what you call "transistor ignition", the actual current being controlled with a transistor instead of mechanical switch.
BESIDES this, it also has a very simple dwell control. Below about 2000 rpm it starts to lower the dwell to prevent the coil overheating and reduce wasting power. Variable dwell is so conservative that you don't need to know about it, but it's neat to know, it won't require any special ignition coil or anything. In addition, there s a feature where if it does not receive a trigger pulse for a second it turns off power. You might have heard about "don't leave the ignition on" if you have petronix or compufire, because these will keep charging the coil until they overheat if you leave key on but engine off, THIS won't.

The module fires "going high", meaning uses a zero-12 volt signal, and fires when it goes to 12v. It will actually work fine as low as 8 volts(maybe lower) and as high as 16; it's not picky.


There are actually Four kinds of TFI module.
Grey(regular) and black(CCD), and distributor mounted or remote mounted, for four combos!
The distributor mounted ones have three pins coming out the side but actually are the same functionally.
Legend has it, in the the CCD ones are supposed to be black but the aftermarket didn't stick to the color codes. I collected three black ones so far and only one is actually CCD unit. THE CCD is computer controlled dwell if you haven't yet guessed.
CCD the coil fires going high, and charges going low, so the trigger signal controls the dwell also. These can be used with points too, but the points will control the dwell..........which is probably not as good, but sometimes good. I used one on a motorcycle. Controlling only one cylinder it made more sense to use the black one IMO.
 
TFI can run any coil. It has "current limiting" at 6-8 amps.
This means once the coil ramps up(charges) to 8 amps then the module holds current at 8 amps by lowering the voltage to the coil as needed.

Our stock ignition usually runs a 3 ohm coil, to limit current to 4 amps.

TFI if you use a 2 ohm or 3 ohm coil it will not be using the current limiting.
I recommend a coil in the 1.5- 2 ohm range for a four cylinder.
The ford coil was 0.7 ohms, and will work too, but it may not be the best, I don't need a coil that charges fast enough to turn 10,000 rpm.
 

If you get a sender that has a range that is greater than the desired range for the instrument cluster, you can just adjust the length and position of the float arm to use the portion of the rheostat that matches the range required by the days. 
That is, design the float arm. So that it contacts the bottom of the fuel tank when the sender is at the "empty" resistance value and contacts the top of the fuel tank at the... You guessed it, "full" resistance. 
 
Older dash from x series like the digital dash won't work unless you use a box in-between to convert the resistance into volts. 

LNice thread mine. 
 
These days I use a medium-small size slide hammer with a fitting, that slips in and hooks over the back of the bearing. 
Wouldn't re use the bearing though if pulled out in this way. 
 
And for aligning clutch I have the input drive of a t5 I pulled out of one I broke.
 
I've not seen spigot bearings without sealed race, if it's a serviceable/exposed cage style bearing then yeah I can see where the troubles lie. Good idea jamming paper in against the bearing to seal it and get it to work though. 

LNice thread mine. 
 
These days I use a medium-small size slide hammer with a fitting, that slips in and hooks over the back of the bearing. 
Wouldn't re use the bearing though if pulled out in this way. 
 
And for aligning clutch I have the input drive of a t5 I pulled out of one I broke.
 
I've not seen spigot bearings without sealed race, if it's a serviceable/exposed cage style bearing then yeah I can see where the troubles lie. Good idea jamming paper in against the bearing to seal it and get it to work though. 

I use grease.

Jam it full of grease. Get a 3/4 drive extension bar and wrap elecky tape on it till it fits snug in the bearing inner race. Then bash the extension bar in with a hammer and the pressure will force the bearing out.

I use grease.

Jam it full of grease. Get a 3/4 drive extension bar and wrap elecky tape on it till it fits snug in the bearing inner race. Then bash the extension bar in with a hammer and the pressure will force the bearing out.

G'day mate, sweet machine you have there.

For starters, it looks like you've got bigger diameter wheels, so lower profile rubber will need less neg camber than the traditional wheel/tyre combo needs (less sidewall deflection).

So your mate's suggestion of 3 degrees might be good for his setup, but your low profile rubber plus the Shelby drop will actually increase neg camber as more compression comes on, so less static camber is needed. This is the whole point of the mod... So you don't need to dial in so much camber at static height to compensate for poor factory geometry.

Falcon/Mustang/Fairlane geometry is designed to provide a POSITIVE camber curve from factory, inducing "safe" understeer for your average mum and dad driver. The Shelby drop inverts this to a negative camber curve. Has your mate's car had the Shelby drop done?

The bigger wheel diameter will also make the car sit higher than your mate's. Going to a smaller rolling diameter will have it all sitting lower before you even touch the suspension.

I also did the Shelby drop, and it has transformed the car. Mine definitely isn't a track car though (XE wagon V8). A 1" drop is as far as you'd go on the street, but 1.5" or even 2" is not unheard of on race cars. This much of a drop requires wedged spacers under the ball joint mount face, to stop the joint from reaching its limits of articulation and binding/breaking off.

In the photo, despite his car being lower, it actually looks like he's got a similar amount of body roll to yours, despite stiffer springs. Maybe he runs less bar? 28mm on yours is pretty damn stiff. That's easily 4 times as stiff as a factory 6-cyl.

If you're running more swaybar than you have spring, it will turn in nice but will induce more understeer the more lock you wind on. It's really important to match rollbar stiffness with spring rate, and as a guide, you could start from factory settings and increase each as a percentage.

Just keep in mind, as you increase roll bar diameter, the stiffness increases to the power of 4 to that. I just found an online calculator and going from 22 to 28mm tripled the stiffness! Maybe you could go back to a stock one and see how it goes? You might be getting some mid-corner plough-steer with too much bar on there.

King lows aren't really that low. They're probably 1.5" lower than stock (dunno what the rates are). 1" Shelby drop gives 0.5" body drop, so altogether you have 2" based on my assumption about the King lows. If you have a bigger rolling diameter, then you've gone back up a bit from there.

Some guys on here have cut and shut their front bump stop plates to raise the bump stop mounting point, increasing the effective suspension travel. If you go lower, you might have to resort to this. There's one bloke on here who is doing this right now (search recent posts to see).

If it's a track car, you could try cutting a coil or two off to easily and cheaply lower it and increase the spring rate. The rate will increase by the amount, percentage-wise, of how much free length you end up chopping off.

The rear sounds pretty sorted, are you running a swaybar there too? That will make it more tailey especially when putting power on. Whether or not you have one depends on your driving style. I have one and would like to put it on mine.

Never underestimate a sorted leaf setup... They have the right kind of lateral deflection that provides a very controlled and predictable rear-steer effect, which can be very handy at getting the big girl through the tight turns. Just ask Dicky Johnson... He always talked of his XD as being a fabulously balanced racecar. Never go to a Watts link setup... It's a step backwards.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The only problem with paying more for a quality part, is that it can be difficult to know if your paying more for a quality part, or just paying more.
 
Aka, you don't get what you pay for. Plenty of times I've spent more to get a good item and ended up with the same pos item that I could have imported from china. 

The only problem with paying more for a quality part, is that it can be difficult to know if your paying more for a quality part, or just paying more.
 
Aka, you don't get what you pay for. Plenty of times I've spent more to get a good item and ended up with the same pos item that I could have imported from china. 

The only problem with paying more for a quality part, is that it can be difficult to know if your paying more for a quality part, or just paying more.
 
Aka, you don't get what you pay for. Plenty of times I've spent more to get a good item and ended up with the same pos item that I could have imported from china. 

Your Falcon is stalling/dieing or sputtering when hot but runs when it cools off.  This can be caused by a faulty TFI and the biggest culprits are heat.  Another culprit can be a wire grounding out.  Problematic TFI's can give off codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT).o
To start with, here are some links you may find helpful:
TFI Worksheet (Strongly recommend you print this worksheet)
TFI Remote Mounting
Ford TFI Module Litigation Settlement
Quick Checks
Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) pertaining to the ignition system:
TFI Stall NO Start - TFI Module Diagnosis and Sealing: This bulletin addresses loss of module ground due to salt and moisture entering a module mounting screw.
TFI Engine NO Start/Stall at Idle - New Ignition Module: This TSB talks about an internal short-circuit in some model TFI modules.
Driveability Concerns - Moist EEC-IV Connectors: This bulletin asks the tech to check for unsealed EEC-IV connectors and check for moisture or corrosion.
Wiring:
Always check your wiring.  Here is a picture of SPOUT (Spark Output signal) wire that was grounding out.

The yellow spark output signal wire is without a section of insulation. This section happens to run through a shield ground that provided a convenient ground source for the SPOUT signal. Just the right bump in the road or vibration from the engine would provide a path of lesser resistance for the SPOUT signal, killing the coil trigger.

This is where the TFI Modile plugs in to the distributor to get the PIP signal.  Notice the defective insulation.
Heat Is Your Enemy!:
The top three leads (for PIP signal) can lose continuity with the back plate (ground) on the module when the unit is hot.  You should consider a remote mounted TFI.  If your TFI is failing from heat, it can give off computer codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT).
General Information
The TFI-IV distributor ignition system consists of the following components:
Thick Film Ignition (TFI) modules
Distributor
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
Ignition coil
The distributor ignition system designed by Ford has two distinct configurations. The first configuration is known as the distributor mounted system, because the TFI is mounted directly on the distributor housing. The second configuration is known as a remote mount system, since the TFI is mounted on the engine or front fender apron.
The distributor used by this system is sealed and houses the CMP sensor. The distributor does not utilize vacuum or centrifugal advance mechanisms; the ignition timing is automatically controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the TFI.
Ford calls this electronic ignition the Thick Film Integrated-IV (TFI-IV) ignition system. The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby by creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module.

System Operation
The CMP sensor, housed inside the distributor, responds to a rotating metallic shutter mounted on the distributor shaft. This rotating shutter produces a digital Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) signal, which is used by the PCM and TFI to provide base timing information, determine engine speed (rpm) and crankshaft position. The distributor shaft rotates at one-half crankshaft speed, therefore the shutter rotates once for every two crankshaft revolutions.

The TFI functions in either one of two modes: push start or Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD). The push start mode allows for increased dwell, or coil on time, when starting the engine. During this mode, the TFI determines when to turn on the ignition coil based on engine speed information. The coil is turned off, thereby firing, whenever a rising edge of a SPark OUTput (SPOUT) signal is received. The SPOUT signal is generated by the PCM, and provides spark timing information to the TFI. During the push start mode, the SPOUT signal only indicates the timing for coil firing; the falling edge of the SPOUT signal is ignored. Despite the name, the push start mode is also enabled during engine starting with the ignition key.
Do not attempt to push start a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission.

The rotary armature has open areas called windows and tabs called vanes

The vane interrupts the magnetic field passing through the Hall effect device
During the CCD mode, both edges of the SPOUT signal are utilized. The leading edge of the SPOUT signal is used by the ICM in the same manner as during the push start mode. The falling edge of the signal is generated to control the timing for turning the ignition coil on (the TFI no longer controls this function as during the push start mode). During the CCD mode, the coil on time, or dwell, is entirely controlled by the PCM through the SPOUT signal.
In the event that the SPOUT signal from the PCM is disrupted, the TFI will use the PIP signal from the CMP to fire the ignition coil, which results in a fixed spark angle and dwell.
Diagnosis & Testing
Service Precautions
Always turn the key OFF and isolate both ends of a circuit whenever testing for shorts or continuity.
Never measure voltage or resistance directly at the processor connector.
Always disconnect solenoids and switches from the harness before measuring for continuity, resistance or energizing by way of a 8-volt source.
When disconnecting connectors, inspect for damaged or pushed-out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service if required.
Preliminary Checks
Visually inspect the engine compartment to ensure that all vacuum lines and spark plug wires are properly routed and securely connected.
Examine all wiring harness and connectors for insulation damage, burned, overheated, loose or broken conditions. Ensure that the TFI is securely fastened to the front fender apron.
Be certain that the battery is fully charged and that all accessories are OFF during the diagnosis.
Test Procedures
Perform the test procedures in the order in which they are presented here.
Ignition Coil Secondary Voltage Test
Coil Voltage Test #1 - Crank Mode

1 - Connect a spark tester between the ignition coil wire and a good engine ground.
2 - Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester.
3 - Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4 - If no spark occurs, check the following:
a. Inspect the ignition coil for damage or carbon tracking.
b. Check that the distributor shaft is rotating when the engine is being cranked.
c. If the results in Steps a and b are okay, go to Test #4.
5 - If a spark did occur, check the distributor cap and rotor for damage or carbon tracking. Go to the Coil Voltage Test #2.
Coil Voltage Test #2 - Run Mode
1 - Fully apply the parking brake. Place the gear shift lever in Neutral (manual transmission) or Park (automatic transmission).
 CAUTION -  Failure to perform this step may result in the vehicle moving when the starter is subsequently engaged during the test.
2 - Disconnect the S terminal wire at the starter relay. Attach a remote starter switch.
3 - Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
4 - Using the remote starter switch, crank the engine and check for spark.
5 - Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6 - If no spark occurred, the problem lies with the wiring harness. Inspect the wiring harness for short circuits, open circuits and other defects. Go to Test #3.
7 - If a spark did occur, the problem is not in the ignition system.

Wiring Harness Test #3 - Voltage Check
1 - Separate wiring harness connector from ignition module.  Inspect for dirt, corrosion and damage. NOTE: Push connector tabs to separate.
2 - Verify that the wire to the S terminal of starter relay is disconnected.
3 - Attach negative (-) VOM lead to distributor base.
4 - Measure battery voltage.
5 - Following the appropriate table below, measure connector terminal voltage by attaching VOM to small straight pin inserted into connector terminal and turning ignition switch to position shown.
 CAUTION -  Do not allow straight pin to contact electrical ground.
 
TFI Without CCD
Connector Terminal
Wire / Circuit
Ignition Switch Test Position
#3 Run Circuit Run and Start #4 Start Circuit Start TFI With CCD
Connector Terminal Wire / Circuit Ignition Switch Test Position
#3 Run Circuit Run and Start 6 - Turn ignition switch to Off position.
7 - Remove straight pin.
8 - Reconnect wire to S terminal of starter relay.
9 - Was the value at least 90 percent of battery voltage in each case?
a. - If yes, replace TFI module.
b. - If no then:
1 - Inspect for faults in wiring harness and connectors.
2 - Check for damaged or worn ignition switch.
Distributor Hall Effect Test #4
1 - Place the transmission shift lever in the Park position (A/T) or Neutral (M/T) position and set the parking brake.
 CAUTION -  Failure to perform this step may result in the vehicle moving when the starter is subsequently engaged during the test.
2 - Disconnect the harness connector from the TFI module and connect the TFI tester.
3 - Connect the red lead from the tester to the (+) positive side of the battery.
4 - Disconnect the wire at the S terminal of the starter relay and attach remote starter switch.
5 - Crank the engine using the remote starter switch and note the status of the two LED lamps.
6 - Remove the tester and remote starter switch.
7 - Reconnect the wire to the starter relay and the connector to the TFI.
8 - Did the PIP light blink?
a. - If Yes, go to Test #6.
b. - If No, remove distributor cap and verify rotation.  If OK, go to Test #5.
TFI Module Resistance Test #5

1 - Remove the TFI from the distributor or the front fender apron.
2 - Measure the resistance between the TFI terminals as shown below:
a. - GND-PIP IN: should be greater than 60 ohms.
b. - PIP PWR-PIP IN: should be less than 2,000 ohms.
c. - PIP PWR-TFI PWR: should be less than 200 ohms.
d. - GND-IGN GND: should be less than 2 ohms.
e. - PIP IN-PIP: should be less than 200 ohms.
3 - If any of these checks failed, replace the TFI with a new one.
TFI Module Test #6
1 - Use status of Tach light from Test #4.  If Yes then go to Test #7.
2 - Did the Tach light blink? If No, replace TFI module and check for spark using the method described in Test #1. If spark was not present, replace the coil also.
System Test #7

1 - Disconnect the pin-in-line connector near the TFI.
2 - Crank the engine
3 - Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4 - If a spark did occur, check the PIP and ignition ground wires for continuity. If okay, the problem is not in the ignition system.
5 - If no spark occurs, check the voltage at the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil with the ignition switch in RUN.
6 - If the reading is not within battery voltage, check for a worn or damaged ignition switch.
7 - If the reading is within battery voltage, check for faults in the wiring between the coil and TFI module terminal No. 2 or any additional wiring or components connected to that circuit.
Spark Timing Advance Test #8
Spark timing advance is controlled by the EEC system. This procedure checks the capability of the ignition module to receive the spark timing command from the EEC module. The use of a volt/ohmmeter is required.
1 - Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2 - Disconnect the pin-in-line connector (SPOUT connector) near the TFI module.
3 - Start the engine and measure the voltage, at idle, from the SPOUT connector to the distributor base. The reading should equal battery voltage.
4 - If the result is okay, the problem lies within the EEC-IV system.
5 - If the result was not satisfactory, separate the wiring harness connector from the ignition module. Check for damage, corrosion or dirt. Service as necessary.
6 - Measure the resistance between terminal No. 1 and the pin-in-line connector. This test is done at the ignition module connector only. The reading should be less than 1 ohms.
7 - If the reading is okay, replace the TFI module.
8 - If the result was not satisfactory, service the wiring between the pin inline connector and the TFI connector.
 
Our Old Testing Procedure
STEP 1
Determine if the engine is getting fuel. If injector is fueling chances are the TFI electronics are ok. If the electronics fail the fuel system shuts down except for about 20 seconds of start of cranking. If no fueling or if it quits after 20 seconds of cranking go to step 2.
STEP 2
Check for spark at one of the spark plugs. If spark is found, you may have a fuel system problem. If spark is not found, check for spark at the coil wire. If you have spark, you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wires. If you still have no spark, unplug the harness at the TFI module. With key off, there should be no voltage present at any terminals of the harness. With key in the run position there should be voltage at the "TFI POWER RUN" and the "TACH IDM (COIL NEGATIVE)" terminals. Pull the small wire off the starter solenoid so engine will not crank. Have an assistant try to crank the engine. There should be voltage at "TFI POWER RUN, TFI POWER CRANK (START SIGNAL IN), and TACH IDM (COIL NEGATIVE)" terminals. If there is not voltages present, there is a possible wiring problem. If voltages are ok, go to step 3.
STEP 3
With coil wire removed to watch for spark, place ignition key in the run position. Momentarily touch a jumper wire from "TACH IDM (COIL NEGATIVE)" terminal of the harness to a good ground. Spark should jump every time the jumper is grounded. Do not ground the jumper for more that a couple of seconds. If no spark is found, make sure that with the key in the run position there is voltage at one of the coil terminals. If voltage is present, the coil may be bad, go to step 4. If spark is found, the problem may be the TFI module or the PIP (profile ignition pickup or reluctor in the distributor) so go to step 5.
STEP 4
We should now test the coil. Use an ohm meter and probe the resistance of the two small terminals, and you should find 0.3 to 1.0 ohm. If the resistance is not ok, it may be a bad coil. If the resistance is ok, probe one small terminal and the coil wire terminal. Resistance should be 8000 to 11,500 ohms. If the resistance is not ok, replace coil. If the resistance is ok, go to step 5.
STEP 5
Testing the pickup coil (PIP) in the distributor is not an easy task, and best to test the TFI module first, then replace the pickup coil (PIP) if the TFI module tests ok. I have seen very few pickup coils on Ford TFI systems go bad. Test the TFI module according to the chart below. These values may be valid only on an OEM module, but may apply to aftermarket.
TFI Terminals to jump Resistance (OHMS)

  HALL EFFECT GROUND HALL EFFECT POWER PIP PIP out 12.8K 1.2K 100 SPOUT in 17.4K 5.8K 4.7K START SIGNAL in 1000 12.6K 13.7K RUN POWER in 11.5K 100 1200 COIL NEGATIVE 4.2K 15.8K 16.9K IGNITION GROUND 0.0 11.6K 12.7K HALL EFFECT POWER 11.5K     PIP 12.6K 1100   DISTRIBUTOR BASE 0.0K 12K 13.1K

Didn't know there was an "off the shelf" unit available. The XD Falcon was the only car to have a clutch cable reinforcement bolt off and on the firewall?
(I think the XC had one to but don't quote me) XE, XF had a small tube just welded to the firewall and its so common for it to crack around the area.
So depends what car you want to put it on, I believe a 'custom job' might be in order.

If you want my opinion (Hahah, Good one.) wihout reading the whole thread.

If you want EFI.
Fucking put it on. 
There is little to nil excuse for using throttle body injection of aftermarket "Bolt on" self learning systems when proper EFi installations can be adapted and used so easily with much better results.

If you want to keep a "carb" manifold and look. Just leave the fkn carby on it..

I should clarify. 
Line pressure is pressure in the brake system.
Braking effort, is the work done. Or how effectively the car slows down.
Braking force is the force exerted onto the brake pad.

could have a look through this thread first.. it's about fixing the current one
 
 

and if that is no good..
 
this is the fix, if crazy2287 still has any or will do any more. 
or you could TRY get another sender unit