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stockesp

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  1. Like
    stockesp reacted to gerg in CROSSFLOW HEAD MILLING   
    Skimming the head on a quench type combustion chamber needs more meat off than an open chamber, as part of the bore area is already flat so is not included in the CC calculation. Every head design is different but for a closed chamber clevo, 5 thou off removes 1CC of chamber. I should imagine crossys to be similar since although the bore is smaller, the quench area is proportionally less than on a clevo.

    Another very important aspect is quench distance. If your pisons are down the hole, no amount of head machining will fix the poor quench that results, regardless of how high your compression is.

    Example: If i had my time over again, the clevo would've copped a set of proper zero-deck pistons instead of the Hypertec rebuilders, which sit down the hole too far. Either that or skim the block to get to zero. I ended up taking 0.025" off the heads to get to a bit over 10:1. If I'd have taken the meat off the deck instead, it would have only needed 0.015" to achieve the same cc, with improved quench.

    Best quench distance is generally said to be 0.040", which happens to be the thickness of a standard head gasket. People do go thinner than this but are pushing the envelope for kissing the head with the piston top.

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk


  2. Like
    stockesp reacted to gerg in TDC and rotor arm position   
    As a general convention, nearly all engines turn clockwise from the "front" ie from the opposite side to its "flywheel" side. There are exceptions but very few. Some aero and marine engines can be configured to turn backwards for balancing out twin setups.

    Your useless info for the day (you're welcome)

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk


  3. Like
    stockesp reacted to gerg in Lucas engine diagnoser   
    Wow that's a blast from the past. For starters, it's not sitting on zero so it needs adjusting on that little trim slot at the bottom. If you already understand dwell and old-school stuff like that, then it's fairly self-explanatory.

    Unless you're running points, dwell is irrelevant. In that case, be very thankful that they fucked that shit off a long time ago. Even dyed-in-the-wool points and carby guys will happily drop an electronic dizzy in and throw the points as far as they can off a wharf, into very deep water, preferably with a large rock attached.

    To find out what wires go where, look up any analog engine analysers that are like this. They're all pretty much the same in operation. Most operations are only measuring volts or frequency (tacho) with the exception of amps, so the only way you'll break it is by connecting across pos and neg terminals with amps selected. This will likely pop a fuse inside. It might have already popped one and could be why it was 2 bucks. Likely to be a glass fuse which you can get from Jaycar or some auto parts places.

    Were you wanting to measure a particular thing or just generally interested in it?

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk


  4. Like
    stockesp reacted to deankxf in Xf Efi problems   
    you can definitely get them in with the head on.. just need to be good at inventing things..
    i ground down the tip of a coat hanger from memory that fitted in the lifter top hole, bent the wire so it hooked in and guided it into position and dropped it in..
    need to be good at the game "operation" 

  5. Like
    stockesp reacted to gerg in Xf Efi problems   
    "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweet taste of low price is forgotten"

    "the poor man pays twice"

    Never a truer word spoken, in each instance.

    Here's a good, well-priced, decent quality cam for you (it's the "stage 1")

    http://www.precisionintl.com/BrandSearch.aspx?Brand=Dynotec&Make=22&Model=&Engine=446



    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk


  6. Like
    stockesp reacted to bear351c in 351c oil leak   
    Silastic wont stick to oil, so use thinners/prepsol to clean heads and rocker covers. Must be squeaky clean.
    Is the oil coming from the front of the trans.?
  7. Like
    stockesp reacted to LJDB in 92 CROSSFLOW REBUILD   
    i ran a vf marloo the other day in my basic turbo xflow corty and left him for dead both times. At the next set of lights he ask's whats in it? i reply just a turbo 6 and he looked at me stupidly waiting for me to say barra. Then said yeah but what. I said just an XF motor. Ha Ha the look on his face was priceless
  8. Like
    stockesp reacted to Thom in 92 CROSSFLOW REBUILD   
    Rule no 1 never throw any part out until you have the replacement and know it fits
  9. Like
    stockesp reacted to Panko in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    well, i feel like an idiot, at the same time absolutely furious. 
    I found the issue causing the steering wobble in the Escort. After owning the car for 14 months, and chasing this issue since december last year, i finally found it. And its the most simple thing, and it pisses me off that i swore it was not this, and i was wrong after telling so many people it couldnt be.
    so what was it? 
    Well obvious, its my fucking wheels. 
    The 2 of my wheels i had on the front, are both bent, one moreso than the other, i stuck them both on the back, drove the car and immediately made a difference. I jacked the car up and put the back on stands and watched the wheels turn at idle speed in top gear (about 20km/h) and sure enough both buckled, one moreso than the other. 
    The wheels i now have on the front, one is a tiny little bit out so it still has a tiny tiny amount of wobble, the other front wheel is dead straight. 
    So, i will enquire about getting my wheels fixed, but if they are too far gone or going to cost too much, they might get thrown in the bin and fit something else. 
    Now im not saying that everything else i did up front didnt make a difference, because it did. The car drives mint now with the new steering and suspension, its tighter than a nun's, well you know what i mean, but it did also cost me over $1000 chasing this dam issue 😡
     
    Anyway, these are some good photos (finally) i took this morning with the new ride height and front suspension setup. 

     

     

     

  10. Like
    stockesp reacted to SirkWhyXF in Snowflake rims - Identification.   
    Well i scored a set of 4 82 stamped esp wheels  
    And i'm talking to Ben the legend from Global Trim to line up a new set of caps and some paint to make em perty too.
  11. Like
    stockesp reacted to uterus in Zh extractors.   
    Haha yeah my daughter loves her rainbows 😂Nah mate mig welder its one time i favour my mig over the stick. im a sheetmetal worker by trade so i love making stuff i gave it up nearly 4 years ago after 20 years of doing it just lost the passion for it. Now i work full time at bunnings and suprisignly the pasdion for fabricating has come back and i love working on cars and 18 months ago i cut the rust out of this zh so i know it was done properly. Found sum more yesterday in the chassis so i will plate that too. 
  12. Like
    stockesp reacted to muzza in XE Speedo and Odometer Issue   
    The gear on the output shaft is called the driving gear and the one on the sender is called the driven gear. 
    The driving gear can get worn out (have experienced this).
    If you pull the sender out and feel the driving gear with your finger by moving the finger across the gear it should be flat.  If worn out will have a noticeable inwards curve.
    To correctly test the sender you really need an oscilloscope (see the pulses coming out as it spins) and to test the speedo you need a pulse generator (input pulses to move the speedo needle).  Not many have that type of gear available, but below is a simple test...
    Check continuity of all the wires between the sender and the back of the cluster.
    At the sender end, the red wire should have 8v from the cluster, the black is ground (chassis/battery -ve) and the white wire is the pulses into the speedo.
    A quick test if you have a multimeter:-
    With the sender removed from the trans but plugged into the loom... ignition On.
    Set meter, on DC 12v range, stick the red probe on the red (8v) wire (or +12v battery) and the black probe on the white wire. Turn the sender slowly and the voltage should fluctuate.  One of the old needle type meter would be better but if you turn the sender slowly it should go to 8v then 0v then 8v etc.
    If you stick a drill onto the driven cog and run it then the needle on the cluster should indicate (make sure you hold the sender firmly if doing this test).
    Oh, and the XE sender is same as XD.  XF onwards will fit but as mentioned above has a different number of pulses per revolution output.  As I recall (but could be wrong) the pinout is different between the XD/XE and XF.
  13. Like
    stockesp reacted to hendrixhc in Radius rod nuts   
    27mm
  14. Like
    stockesp reacted to Panko in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    Ok so this little grinch continues to fight me all the way, although the next issue that arose wasnt necessarily the cars fault.
    I set out to replace the engine mounts, in which i had ordered from the UK, purpose made to convert a 1300 from the stock, square rubber block type engine mounts, which are grafted to the metal engine brackets, to really strong, round rubber/steel mounts, plus new hand made engine brackets. 
    Anyway, the first hurdle with these was, on the website of the supplier in the UK, it says that the longer of the 2 rubber mounts (52mm) goes on the intake side of the engine, and the thinner of the two (42mm) goes on the exhaust side. there are also different lengths in the steel engine brackets, and the short engine bracket goes with the long rubber, and short steel engine bracket with the long rubber.
    Well, the only way they were ever going to work was by running them on the OPPOSITE side to what they list on their website. so I fitted the exhaust mount, because it took 5 minutes to put in. the following morning started fitting up the intake side mount, which is  a lot more complicated. tried to fit it, and we tried jacking the engine right up, pushing it right over to the exhaust side, to the point where the bell housing was touching the firewall above the exhaust side of the bell housing, and it just wouldn't go, no matter what we tried. 
    the only solution, to shorten the brand new engine bracket by 10mm. so thats what i got my dad to do, but 10mm out and re-weld it. this was at about 4:30pm yesterday afternoon. we tacked up the modified mount, test fitted. all good, took it out, welded it up for good, painted it, and by 6:30pm we had it in for good, never to come out again (for now). 
    such a frustrating process. so stupid that we had to modify something purpose made for the job  
    oh and that wasnt the last of the modifying of brand new parts...*continue reading below* 
     
    New tail shaft done 


    Its close to the cradle for the old tail shaft but i doubt it will ever touch. 

    Had to now modify the new boss kit. 
    It has both the euro and non euro bolt pattern for aftermarket steering wheels. however the the notch for the indicator cancellation tab, was central for the euro stud pattern, not the non euro (aus) bolt pattern. I could have left it, but it would mean one indicator would auto cancel, the other wouldn't. so i cut a new slot into the boss kit to suit the aus bolt pattern. 

    all in, but not quite finished. ill eventually make an alloy plate that goes where the horn button would normally go so i can double sided tape the original "Escort" centre piece to, to go in the hole thats left from the lack of horn button  
    Its not the best suited to the interior, but the best of a bad lot, without spending big big money on a Nardi wheel (which i really really want but too expensive at the moment) 

    just a cool photo from saturday night @ PenLink  

    and another one from work today. I decided to test drive it to work this afternoon after doing the recent work on it. 

     
     
  15. Like
    stockesp reacted to VDO in CONSUL CLEANING XE   
    Just give it a soak in some caustic for a day or so.
     
    No scrubbing, no nothing.
     
    And a super clean result.
     
    Simples..!
  16. Like
    stockesp reacted to 2redrovers in Rust Repair Recommendation   
    Gerg, you'd probably get the same answer if you asked us to do it, quality may be better here though
  17. Like
    stockesp reacted to gerg in 351c fuel economy   
    Depends if using Imp gallons or US:
     
    1 US gal = 3.785 litres
    1 Imp gal = 4.54609 litres
     
    So 18 US gal = 14.98 Imp gal
     
    18 mpg in US gal: = 12.9 l/100
    In Imp gal: = 15.5 l/100
     
    I generally use US gal when converting because our engines/carbys, etc are US based so should be compared as such.
     
    Ah the wonders of the imperial system
     
    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  18. Like
    stockesp got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in Broken Bolt Extraction   
    Vice grips are great for the easy extraction but my favourite is the fine blade high speed cutter cutting the slot for a flat blade screwdriver like Bear said.
     
    Another is drill out as much of the broken fastener and use a tap to remove the remaining thread.
    Heat gun on HOT is very useful but above all, patience.
  19. Like
    stockesp reacted to bear351c in Broken Bolt Extraction   
    Cool idea....
     
    Left handed drill bits work the best.
    Ezy outs
    Stud extractors
    Weld a nut on top
    Cut a slot with hacksaw, and use a screwdriver
    2 nuts tightened together on the thread
     
     
    Just to name a few.
     
    Anyone else.??
  20. Like
    stockesp reacted to Panko in Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)   
    Shes looking pretty good at the moment. I cleaned it up in and outside to get the photos to lodge with the car club.
     

     

  21. Like
    stockesp reacted to ando76 in single rail 6 to 8cyl   
    Whe I spoke to mal wood some years ago about the t5's as opposed to single rail behind a healthy x flow he said stick with th single rail. It will eat t5's if pushed. I would think that first gear ratio will be fine.
  22. Like
    stockesp reacted to SPArKy_Dave in CLEVELAND YORK AIR CON   
    Suction goes to the firewall, and discharge goes to the condensor, in front of the radiator.
  23. Like
    stockesp reacted to SPArKy_Dave in CLEVELAND YORK AIR CON   
    Did I read that you're using the 6cyl compressor on the Clevo?
    Remember that the compressor Suction and Discharge ports can be opposite on the V8's, compared to the 6cyl's.
     
    I have an account at Cooldrive Distribution (aircon wholesaler)
    In the catalogue, there are two separate listings.
     
    XA-XE 6cyl - CM1924 - RH Suction port
    XD-XE V8 - CM1237 - LH Suction port
     
    Interestingly though, the catalogue lists CM1924 as suitable for ZH/ZK and FD LTD V8's, but also states RH Suction.
     
    In the Adrad Catalogue I have, the part numbers are as follows -
     
    PYOR014 (ref CM1924) York Compressor 169cc capacity
    PYOR004 (ref CM1237) York Compressor 169cc capacity
  24. Like
    stockesp reacted to CHESTNUTXE in F100 LWB 250turbo   
    nice,good work going on here.
  25. Like
    stockesp reacted to gerg in RECO2 CLEVO   
    In my experience with my own 302, it's just starting to get into its stride right where the stock valvetrain is struggling to cope. So to take advantage of this aspect, I'd have to run better pushrods, valvesprings and probably roller rockers to give it the upper rpm it deserves, say 6500. By then, a stock flywheel is way past its safe limits and your bottom end really needs to be balanced to live a decent life. All this adds up to easily a grand and a half, which you wouldn't need to spend to get the same herbs from a (lazy) 351 with stock everything except cam, carb, etc. Seeing as all F-trucks use the same drivetrain, with the extra torque of a 351 you don't have the dilemma of needing to upgrade it like on a Falcon. To me it would be false economy to run a 302C in a truck. Sure like you say, it would go ok but a 351 would be worlds better.
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