Leaderboard

Good news Jim. I would just change the pushrods, if your camera shows no pitting on the cam lobes. If you replace the lifters, just go through normal cam break in procedure. Assembly lube, run at 1800-2500 for 20 mins, etc, etc, Let us know how ya get on.

Maybe some aspiring business person can go to the 'States and bring back a container full of V8 5 speeds, out of a Mustang graveyard, would make a killing.....

The original T5Z was a Ford Motorsport box. I think maybe 94-95 Mustang Cobras had them. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

In a nutshell, yes. The taller first gear (numerically smaller) ratio for a given gearbox type will have a higher torque capacity. As a happy accident of this, larger higher torque engines can tolerate (and benefit from) a taller first as they don't bog down like a smaller engine would, which would feel like you're taking off in second. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think I should start talking to myself more often. As I was explaining the problem to post on youtube I got it all working. As you said deankdx there is not too many hoses needed on the V8. Thanks for your help it was a good tip.

As a general rule with gearboxes, the deeper the ratio in 1st, the lower the torque capacity. This is derived from the amount of reduction given by the input shaft gear to layshaft ratio. The deeper this ratio, the more torque multiplication happens internally and this will reduce the overall torque capacity of the box. So an XF-EA-EB1 will have 3.50 first (as mine does) and later ones will be a little taller (3.35 springs to mind). The T5Z has a 2.95 1st, not overly tall like the close ratio toploader or single rail variants but this plus a wider gear design increased the torque capacity to 310 lb-ft vs 265 for the normal ones. This makes them still marginal behind a large displacement small block though. Manual boxes are a niche market these days, so the few manufacturers left can basically name their price. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think only some T5s had that balance thing. I don't have it on mine, no issues at all.

I kept at it and #5 is all bouncy bouncy on the spring now. She was stuck full up which is good I think in regards to being bent. this engine was rebuilt and run about 3000 miles, in a 60s Ford econoline that the guy couldn't keep cool so he took it out. In my old Bronco she runs cool just fine. It sat in my garage for 3 years and longer in the garage of the guy I bought it from. Clean, but I think valve stem moisture/rust is the issue? I lubed the crank and spun it over with no coil before start up, but I wish I had pulled the valve covers and spun it by hand checking the valvetrain before installing also.... Since the valve freed up and bounces on the spring, I am going to go through all the lifters individually and clean and lube and put back in place, I'd like to keep them matched to the cam. I have a nice milwaukee camera to inspect the cam. I don't mind buying new lifters at all, just thinking keeping them matched is a good idea?? I guess I'll get 3 new rocker arms, so all 12 match, and the 2 that had pushrod issues are a little dinged up where the pushrod contacts them. New is better than dressing them up. lifters are cheap, I don't mind getting new ones, but I was thinking they are worn to the cam and keeping them? Its not a lot of miles, I dunno?I can see no wear indications on the one lifter I have pulled so far, looks new. I don't even mind buying roller rocker arms, but then I don't know what I have to change on the pushrods, so maybe keep it simple and stick with stock rocker arms. thank you --Jim

Good advice Bear, I'll add that the valve might be stuck from rust due to moisture getting in somehow, in which case the guide could chop out if there is pitting on the valve stem. It could also have a bend in it, causing it to bind at certain lifts. I have had a guide grab a valve on a fresh engine while on its maiden voyage (Mercedes bus) and it was a fault with whoever the reco'd of the head (guide too tight). Was one of the odd rockers on the valve that was stuck? Is it possible that they were replaced for the same reason? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk