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Watching The Skid Factory (youtube) I've seen them use heat gun to winkle up the winkle paint, *after a bit of looking back through your thread, as a temp exhaust, cut through the expanded part on the collector & rotate to the left (guessing 4-7mm) then reweld, should work Those extractors also look to tapper down to fit in that small "collector" that looks to just be a flared bit of pipe from when they were made, if so, I'd cut them back where they are still round (maybe extend the secondary's a bit & put a pair of mandrel bends from where you cut) then put a twin 1 ?/?" in to 2" out collector, also with the extractors does the 4th cyl pipe go into the side of the 1st cyl, or is the collector just hidden by 2&3 (hard to tell from photos). As to pipe size Vs engine as a EG. VE SV6 3.6lt has 2 1/4" twin from factory, 1800cc per bank, so 2" will be fine for a 1660cc. also to 2" single on 4.1, from memory BF E-gas utes have 2 3/4" exhaust, & EA onwards were always 2 1/4".

So this is where I am at with the Exhaust/extractor thing. For the purposes of firing the engine up, I have removed the gearbox mount so i can fit the extractors. basically where the end of the extractors are, is right where the passenger side of the gearbox mount sits. They have a fantastic shape to them, but the back of the gearbox being a little wider, and the mount being located a good 100mm further backwards, they don't clear. Also with the 1600 block being taller, it has brought the extractors up. im certain the exhaust ran under the gearbox mount. its not level with it. After soaking in petrol for about 48 hours, then attacking it with degreaser, a screw driver and a hose, the PCV canister has been restored back to as good as new. I am going to plumb in a sealed return catch can between this and the intake manifold, but for the purposes of firing it up at home ill plumb it straight into the intake. or maybe let it vent to atmosphere for now All fitted up and looking schmick. I also pulled the top off the fuel pump to have a look inside. I knew it wasn't a genuine Ford one, so it has been replaced at some point. Turns out it is brand spanking new. its never had fuel in it. so that was a nice little surprise. Yesterday I picked up my restored switches, and at the same time bought 3 of the 4 reproduction engine bay and (inside) boot lid stickers I need to bring the car back to 100% factory look. Glenn who has supplied the stickers and done my switches is a legend. and I had some serious shed envy going on. Currently he has 4 Escorts in his shed, 5 at his place in total. 4 of them are his personal cars. 1 of them, the jewell of the collection, a genuine, 1 of 25 Australian delivered Mk1 RS2000. It was a race car for a long time, then retired and sat stagnate for a long time before he bought it in 2001. He is almost finished doing a full nut and bolt restoration on it. so it hasn't been driven in around 25 years, and should be finished and ready for the road by the end of the year. His shed, can comfortably fit 4 escorts in with room to work on them all, and at a squeeze fit 6. As I was getting ready to leave, he also offered me 1 and a half sets (6 wheels) of wide steelies....for free. one of the sets were genuine Lotus Escort slotted 13x6 wheels. the other 2 were a bit unknown. After i spent years searching. I didn't take them yet. I need to check mine out for condition, and then compare to his set. they all need restoring either way. and the last little surprise from him, was the price for the switches and decals. I totally read his quote wrong. I read it has he was charging me half price, at $50 per switch to restore, so x 3 would be $150. Plus decals $175. When I went to pay him the $175, he says no mate, you're $100 over. huh? he then showed me his original quote, he charged me $50 for all 3 switches to be done. We have known each other for a few years, and I gave him a 4 speed gearbox a while back, which id forgotten about, so that was why he was helping me out on the price. I am just waiting on the 1300HC decal, which he had unfortunately run out of, and will need to get more printed.

Your where right dean right front calipher sticking

Just thought of a couple anomalies that happened that I haven't mentioned... When we first replaced the starter and cranked it over, it DID actually start, but run quite rough. Our assumption was that it was running out of petrol. We rectified that situation, but it hasn't fired since. Several times I have checked for spark, and a couple of those times it intermittently did, although it didn't appear that strong. But now it's completely gone, no spark whatsoever.....

Hi Jack, I've identified and looked at the things you have suggested. Unfortunately there is nothing obviously disconnected, unplugged or broken. But I've given everything a twist, a flex and bend, hoping that a bad connection or contact may reconnect. But no go, it still doesn't start. Where do I go from here.... Any thoughts?

Thanks Thom, literally under the car looking at it right now

Could be a couple of simple things, you may have knocked the plug or ignition lead off the coil, pretty easy to do when messing with the starter

Thanks again, i will let you know how it goes. I'll be looking at it shortly.....

Never fear.... Outback is here! . Ok mate, get under the ute. The loom that goes to the starter also has the wiring for the coil, one connector goes to a radio suppressor on the coil, the other goes to the starter motor. That's the best place to get to the wiring. Probably as you say, just knocked something off. Let me know how you go. Sorry I was busy ripping out a garden bed and massive bush to get my JBA round the back. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Thanks dean that will be my next set of checks ,front calipher hoses and rear hose (drum brakes) about 2 years old

i'd hope @Outback Jack might pop in here. i wouldn't try remove the intake manifold, i I agree the XG is a nightmare to work on, i had one that gave me enough issues to sell it as soon as it was going well again

My problem is im not geared up to weld exhaust pipe lol. Im hopefully picking up a replacement set of 4-2-1s on tuesday. Yes you are correct, they taper down from 2" to 1.75" which suits the 1300 (1289 to be exact) Number 4 does go into the same collector as number 1, then 2 and 3 share. XF was 2" from factory, ive stepped it up to 2 ¼" up to the diff, then 2" straight pipe from there out the back.

Yeah dean it that trw brand that you uploaded Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, I posted in wrong section. Have reposted in auto electrics

a bit of an update my spool rods and ross forgies have turned up. have sourced another engine with a spare 4 speed cheap and stripped it down. engine was out of an xe but it has a rubber crank seal and an unmarked hf4 head with a 52cc chamber. bore is standard size, not that it matters because it will be going 40 thou over to suite the pistons. i have started porting the head so far : gasket matched intake and exhaust, blended valve seats, stream lined around the valve guide. still have to polish up the exhaust ports and unshroud the valves in the chamber. unsure what it will flow but should make a bit of difference. head will have new valve guides installed and a 3 angle valve job and a skim. i will need to talk to my machine shop to find out what m.l.s head gaskets are available so i can work out comp ratio. block will be decked to 0. still undecided on cam atm if budget allows i would like a solid roller not so i can go bigger on cam but for not having to run in the cam and swap springs out.