Auto choke is piss-easy to hook up. Just tee off the + wire on the dizzy, feed it to the + terminal on the choke housing. It earths through the loop wire back onto itself. You adjust the amount of choke by loosening the 3x screws around the choke housing, and rotating left or right to put more or less load on the clock spring inside. There is a pointer and scale for reference on the housings. Adjusting the choke does two things: 1. Shortens or lengthens the time that the choke (and idle-up) is on. 2. Adjusts the amount that the choke plate is closed at the start of the choke cycle (enrichment). The clock spring inside is bi-metallic, so whenever there is power to it, there is a certain amount of time from closed to open depending on what angle you have adjusted the housing to. I think here in Oz (unless it's frosty outside), you can get away with the minimal setting. The idle-up is a bit of a shit to adjust, I think you either need to pull the carby back off to adjust the screw that rides on the step-up cam, or get a ridiculously short screwdriver under there. In my opinion, the idle-up function is more important than the choke flap itself. I think it's very beneficial to have the choke hooked up. You won't need to have the idle mixture so rich to keep it alive when cold, you can actually make that nice and lean and crisp but still have it drive properly when cold. Of course, this is just general info for all out there who baulk at this kind of stuff. I know yours is manual, but that is also worthwhile hooking up in my opinion, for the exact same reasons stated above. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk