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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/24/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Boingk

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    Cover whire wheeled, camshaft and timing set out. This thing definitely had love in the distant past - the camshaft is a Crane grind (230@50 / 530 lift) and all the cam bearings are mint. The head gaskets came off dead flat and looking like they're out of a packet. The more I strip stuff off this the better it gets. Figners crossed for the crank and rods. Ah yeah, I got the heads back as well. Hot tanked, acid bathed, hardened seats all round with a mild throat cut plus a valve job, new seals & mild performance springs. Nice.
  2. 1 point
    SPArKy_Dave

    Help!

    Could be stuck valves, valve-spring bind, or the cam is too big for zero deck, and now the lifters have pumped up, the valves are hitting the pistons. If you have a bore-scope, see if the piston crowns are marked/damaged. Or take the rockers off, then try turning the engine over by hand.
  3. 1 point
    SteveHobart

    Help!

    It’s done this since I got it back. Free up, lock up, free up etc etc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 1 point
    Ok, was just in the garage tinkering. Now first up let's get this 100% correct. When replacing the ecu in an EA-ED+XG with an EL ecu, the CORRECT timing is TDC or 0 degrees. With or without j3, it is a FACT. End of story. You can see this easily by looking at the timing at idle. If you left your timing at 10btdc as per EA-ED+XG and put the EL ecu in, with or without j3 chip, you are running 10 degrees too advanced through the entire rev range. If you have a digital timing light you will see the idle timing is around 30btdc. It should be in the 15-20btdc range. I searched high and low for this answer and it was right in front of me. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise and if you want to safely run your motor on EA-ED+XG with an EL ecu. TDC as base timing. Thanks to my Equus digital tach advance timing light for confirming my theory. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  5. 1 point
    ando76

    Exhaust design thread...

    Thanks matt. I'm really happy with the way it turned out and how it tucks the exhaust up out of harms way. I'm looking at making my own set of 'Header Mufflers' (see Car Chemistry header mufflers) to put into the turndowns to take a bit of the rasp out. I'll post up some pics after the school holidays and I'll take another video with a better camera and just focus on the exhaust noise at idle and with a rev cause it does sound very sweet. Thanks again for the kind words.
  6. 1 point
    ando76

    Exhaust design thread...

    Ok so most of you know I have been beating on about building a twin 2.5" system with an 'X' pipe for my race car. Well I have had all these bits for awhile and I finally found some time to get into it so I started with all this today. I worked out a rough plan and seeing as it was going into my race car I was lucky in that I did not have to deal with the usual constraints of bending the exhaust around to suit the floor plan. I decided that I wanted the new system to be as straight as possible. Minimal bends - less restriction. I also wanted to get the new system up as high as I could to avoid track damage as well as damage from unloading and loading the car. So I checked the rule book and modifying the floor pan to fit the exhaust seemed to be okay and I have seen plenty of people do this - even with exhausts routed on the passenger side of the car. So I hooked in and removed a section of the floor to allow the exhaust to basically run straight under my seat and back into the original exhaust cavity. I'll replace this section with a bit of 1.5mm sheet steel bent and swagged for strength. So I joined the MOROSO spiral flow mufflers and fitted up the flanged turndowns which allows me to direct the exhaust wherever I want. I decided to go straight to ground. I worked out the length I wanted before the system met the X pipe and I that allowed me to build the system from the back forward. Then I spent the rest of the afternoon doing the front half of the system so that it bolted up in the same way as the original exhaust. This will allow me to back to back each of the systems on the dyno to see if the new system has made any power or torque gains. One thing is for sure it sounds heaps better, a bit louder than the original system but for the moment I'm happy. So enough garbling, here is the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ehTtPostYjk
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