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Yeah I'm always happy to have a go at porting. I've got the carbide bit there so may as well. I will probably do some research of the "do's and don'ts" and then go through the lot but if its anything like the GT40P's I did for the Windsor it'll be fairly straighforward - clean up the flash, smooth out where the casting meets the machining and go from there. I won't be expecting miracles but even a small gain over stock would be nice. More good news by the way. Looks like this thing is a stock bore 351. Heads seem fresh, too. We're on a winner so far!

Good news, I got some 302C heads. Nothing flash, they need a hot tanking and resurfacing but were cheap enough to warrant it. Bad news too, I've got one stuck head on the block as I rounded a rocker retaining bolt. Damn thing feels like its made of cheese, I'll have to cut up the rocker to get at the head bolt as easy outs and welding a stud to the rounded bolt haven't worked.

Cheers gents! I'll probably stick with the old pistons if it measures up okay. Plan at this stage is to give it a re-ring and bearing job plus new oil pump while I put a decent clutch behind her. If I can get the lifter bushings I mentioned earlier to fix the oiling issues then I'll be pretty happy as well. I'll probably stay away from absolute zero-deck (depending on how it emasures up) as the heads will need machining and I'm trying to stay under 11:1 compression. From memory my last 351 with 302 heads measured up about 10.7:1 and was pretty happy. gerg, I'll check out your thread for sure mate, thanks for the tip. - boingk

Nice one! I'd be worried if it was an open chamber 302... That would've been a dog! Are you going with the old pistons or splashing out on new ones? I would aim for zero deck to take advantage of the closed chamber. I did a bit of a cleanup on my 2Vs, I think it's in my gergwagon thread. A few pics for reference anyway. Just smoothed the bowl and throat transition, knocked a bit off the short turn and bevelled and put a contour on the guides. Nothing drastic and definitely not pretty, but it surely can't have hurt at all. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

awesome a early 351 block with the notch for 4v valves if needed,i have also heard that a later block with no notches is fine with 4v valves as long as bored 030

Parts are turning up so time to have the engine apart. Its sludge city in there. On the upside I got the carby off and its in good condition. Not much play in anything and certainly ran quite well. I will likely refurbish it and sell it on, if anyone is keen let me know. The Holley I was going to use to start with I fitted to the 250 crossflow I sold as part of the deal... so I'm rebuilding another. All good so far, fingers crossed. Heads off in the morning, I'll see whether she is a 302 or a 351.

Cheers mate! Yeah I was reading up that 37's rub at full lock on an unmodified truck, so 35's it is. It's running 8.25-16's up front at the moment which works out about 33, and I definitely wouldn't want to go smaller. I'll go aftermarket steel wheels. I'm talking to the local place about it, he's getting into his catalouge so should come back with something for me next week. The clutch master and slave I can't remember honestly. I'll look up my ebay purchase from a few years ago and see what I got. From memory it was fairly generic Protex stuff. I made it work with trailer hydraulic line to join them, and used a drilled fishing sinker to make up the hydraulic olive needed for the master connection. Meantime here's my dodgy floor replacement. I'm not a good welder, but managed to make this thing solid. Not pretty, but solid. - boingk

Nice! 35s will look tits [emoji41][emoji117] On the standard rims, or going aftermarket? There are good sizes in 17" for 4x4s. You will have to watch the GVM vs max load on the wheels and tyres though. Being an F250, you may be up around 4.5 tonnes all done, and 3 tonnes on the back axle. Is the clutch master and slave the same as a Falcon? I found the 5/8" master a bit small and have worn out 2 of them already in only a few years. Went to a 3/4" trailer type and it's a bit heavy on the pedal but these things are readily available (on a Sunday, broken down on the Gt Western hwy Springwood) as they're a generic design. I will eventually go with a 7/8" or 15/16" slave (up from the standard 3/4”) when I get my arse into gear. Going up in size at each end by the same ratio will drop the line pressure and thus wear and tear in the system. I'm done with the stock (IBS) replacements failing. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Alrighty, got her running a bit better. Still no fuel tank but everything is sorted more or less. Radiator and thermostat are good, charging system is up to spec and even the power steering works. WTF??? Yeah things work, I'm surprised! The hydraulic clutch looks pretty shot so will go a new master and slave, probably new line as well. Reminds me of my last Effie, it had the same drama. It's only $100 for the new master, slave and line though so thats the good news. Meantime I've chopped rust out of the drivers floor, neatened the hole up to the size of an A4 page, and will try and stitch some new metal back in there this afternoon. And yes she'll be getting 35" tyres as these things look munted (IMHO) with anything less than that. - boingk