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They spin in the bores. If they do not spin you wipe cam lobes. 8mm 1/4 drive on a battery drill fits in there with manifold on.Done it heaps.

I have been waiting for this sticker for about a month gerg will love it 460 police interceptor [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji4]sic Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Yep Slydog has it. Flat tappets aren't actually flat. They're slightly domed, and the cam lobes are slightly tapered and offset to the cam bore. They don't push the lifter squarely, but rather roll it on one outside edge while pushing it up. This causes the lifter to rotate in its bore and wear the face evenly. The minute it stops rotating is when it gets wiped. This is also why you need a zinc oil at all times, especially run-in (trust me on this, learnt the hard way) as the pressure on that very small sliding contact patch between cam and lifter would easily be thousands of PSI. This is why many OEMs went to roller cams in the 80s. Not for performance, but because they had to start taking zinc out of the oil due to it causing cat failure. Try to avoid turning the engine over too much once you've installed the cam and lubed it. You want the cam lube to be on it until the very moment you (hopefully) fire it up and get that oil splashing on it at 2000-2500 rpm. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

I'll give it a go using the drill to prime it And speaking of radiators, I picked up a brand new still in the box radiator for $50 on Wednesday.

Mr Polson is on it. Exactly what he said. I've raced tarmac a few times on DBA T2's Slotted only, with bendex ult pads. The pads ended up getting cooked but rotors survived, so they well over 550deg C. and i've swapped to a higher temp compound pad for now. For street use. Standard bendex are easily available, and good reliable quality. You dont need ultimates or special compounds unless your racing. Do not get crossed drilled rotors. They are for looks only. Cross drilling atcually reduces the effectivness of the rotor as it lowers thermal mass. It also create failure points making the rotor more prone to flying to bits on the track.

Cheers Searly, ill follow it up!

Fuck yeah... that's Starsky & Hutch material right there Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

I did this with a bolt welded to the top of the shaft with the thread sticking out to be gripped by the drill. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

An old dizzy shaft with the gear removed works well

it's pretty easy to burn through $4000 on an engine rebuild, especially if doing hoses, belts, oils, fluids etc.. (add heater core and radiator into it .. just keeps going up) My old Neighbor (old in age, and old as in previous) used to undo the oil pressure switch and pump engine oil in there to prime the oil system on some cars. if you left the manifold off and got creative you could use a drill to prime the oil system by either making up a hex drive that fits the drill into where the dizzy goes, (might be able to buy one even?)

DBA slotted T2s are probably the best rotor for the street. I wouldn't recommend Bendix ultimate for the street, they need to be warm and used hard to be effective. Normal Bendix pads should be fine, of Heavy Duty if you don't mind some dust.

Jeez that snorkel runs close to the positive terminal on the battery.