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If you don't get 600 horse I'd be mighty disappointed.

hey just turn the cast iron manifolds upsidedown and bolt 2 turbos on ,?

i listen to the six million dollar man series when in the garage its so fkn funny,steve vs bigfoot is a classic,or steve vs the death probe,whichlooks like deans gemini

Tuuuuuuuuuuuurboooooooooooooooooo....

now steve i want you use your bionic arm to lift the 400 manifold

Yep, same as the oil sender. Are you doing the bypass tube? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/8290-tips-on-welding-cracked-strut-tower-in-xg-ute/ Have a read of this if your concerned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep seen these start cracking all the place and do have quite amount of flex later models. Torque and weight and underrated suspension is a great mix. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think banno was more concerned about the amount of instant torque that 400 will make, it might start stressing things a lot quicker than your old xflow would have

Up to you but I be going over all the spot welds and even welding up and plating engine cross member before putting such large engine in a xf ute. Late model xf are not built the same as a xd or early xe in steel quality. Even xg were ordinary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is the 400 still going in the xf? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Engine is in pre delivery ,all paid for Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

this one is coolant temp for the ECU

Completely forgot to get a photo the other day. My ute doesn't have, and has never had AC so can't help with that much. It is a 89 model so has EST, and did have plenty of emmisons rubbish that I've removed Overview These are either for AC (never fitted) or a PTC heater that was definitely on early 3.3L and I've heard some late model 4.1 had them as emmision control? It was basically a heated element for while the car was cold. Either way mine doesn't have it there. Fuel cut off solenoid. Closes off the fuel circuit when car is off to prevent anti-run on. Will run with it disconnected, won't idle, and runs poorly. Red wire from carb is the throttle position sensor/switch. Pretty sure it only knows if throttle is on or off. Yellow wire is 7V supply to auto choke from carb. Only hooked up for this photo [emoji23] I have the choke wound way way way off and the yellow wire off normally. This shows dizzy plug, on the dizzy itself, temp sensor wire (red one going to front of motor) and another emmisions connector, something to do with charcoal cannister I think. Another connector here for something. No idea what.

Left to right connector, Black A/C?, Yellow 7 volt for weber choke, brown ?, red w/green line would be weber fuel cut solenoid. 2 pin plug if red w/green line, & pink w/blue line is EST coil wiring, connector near dissy is canister purge valve,

[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

i wouldnt want to be a toyota owner atm with that corona virus bahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Bout what my head weighs

For those that are also running high ball joint angles, savy motorsport make a rebuildable upper and lower ball joint. The uppers are also designed for low ride hights. The billet housing is machined so that it sits flat on the UCA, but is angled to place the joint closer to the middle of its movement at the arm angles most of us are running. https://savymotorsport.com.au/product/ford-top-ball-joint-studs-and-parts/ Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Second photo i forgot