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being electronic ignition points gaps etc dont exist lol. vac advance does though. I know for sure the 1600 would be a mad upgrade, but in roundabout terms dropping a 1600 in also means changing the diff, thats why i want the 1600 torque etc. dropping a 5 speed in would drop the rpm down to 3370rpm at 100km/h with the 4.11 diff. that is fkn mint! or if i drop a 3.77 diff in it would drop to 3770rpm at 100km/h, which would also be bearable, but not viable behind the 1300cc engine and 4 speed. either way, nothing will happen in that regard for a while yet. wheels, carby and driver's seat first.

well in "Sport" mode they will do 65km/h. sport mode also turns off all the safety mechanisms, ie the sensors etc. I often see damaged mavics for sale and wonder how, because these are so dam safe, with the sonar sensors etc etc, then i realise the dumbass has probably been flying it in Sport mode and lost control of it. OK onto car related stuff again (epic post coming) I spent today chasing Minis again, up around the Yarra Ranges. "Parmarama" (spirited drive to Alexandra pub for parmas) anyway, I think ive discovered a bit of an issue with the engine. I have no idea what it is yet, but I am going to be changing the carby soon anyway, so thats a good start. so what is the issue? I did a bit of a spirited overtaking manoeuvre to get in front of a line of 3 old farts from the VicMini club , so 80km/h, dropped it back to 3rd gear, and let it rip. full throttle, pushed it out to over 100km/h in 3rd, at around 6000rpm, dropped it into top gear and pushed it out to around 120km/h to get clear of all 3 cars. It felt great, engine was on song, it was happy. Later in the day, i went to do something similar, but this time leaving it in 4th, and it felt very underpowered and just not willing to get going, which at 100km/h in top gear its right on the point where it comes on song (~4000rpm) so generally dont need to drop it back out of 4th at that speed to overtake. The issue is, some times it feels great, other times it feels crap. now it is a tired 1300, but its not consistent with its power/torque. At lunch stop, i popped the bonnet up, and noticed that the fuel filter between the pump and the carby, was nearly dry, with fuel only trickling in. does this mean the fuel pump isnt keeping up? I have seen it full to the brim with fuel also. I am not going to attack the fuel pump until I have got the 32/36 fitted and running. once I have that up and running, Ill know if the pump cant keep up or whatnot. I have a bit to decide after today As much as I love the 15" wheels, I am looking forward to getting them off the car. after driving the car for about 200kms today in twisty roads, its handling mint. its on rails, BUT, the low profile tyres are now doing my head in. they just dont have the give, and the car gets unsettled very easy on rougher roads. they look fantastic as a "show" wheel, or as a stance wheel, but the 13s I think are going to be much nicer on those sorts of roads. Driving it for long periods I feel something is going to have to change. the car runs the factory optioned 4.11:1 diff. So it screams on the highway, it also means it makes it easier for the car to get going. the other manual diff ratio that was available back in the day from new was a 3.9:1 diff, which would make the car that little bit nicer on the road (3900rpm @ 100km/h vs 4100 @ 100km/h (keep in mind it comes on song at 4000rpm)). But a 3.9 diff, may labour the poor 1300 off the line, although 1st is incredibly short. In the long term I am thinking a Type9 5 speed is the way to go, and keep the 1300 and 4.11 diff. the 5 speed conversion is expensive. the box is from a Sierra, worth anywhere from $1000 to $2000, but they are the only 5 speed that will fit into a manual Escort body shell with very minor body work required. OR I drop a 1600cc engine in, which will go straight in, and then drop the diff down to a 3.77 ratio. a stock 1600, with its single barrel carby and crappy cast exhaust manifold, puts out around 60kw (compared to 43kw 1300). keeping in mind my 1300 is down a long way on compression. A good stock second hand 1600, with decent compression, would be fine to drop a warmed up cam in it, fit the weber, extractors, and ive got an engine producing easily double the stock power, and would have more than enough torque to push the taller diff like a 3.77 and I could then keep the 4 speed. it will come down to the cost of an engine and diff (or centre if i can change just the centre) vs a complete 5 speed conversion to go behind a 1300. The DIFF needs work also. if im going to change the centre, i might as well as do the diff up and replace the noisy bearings and tighten it up. so whats the cost of that vs replacing the diff with lets say a Mk2 diff (mini 9" diff) or an Atlas diff thats in good condition ready to go, which has a suitable ratio centre. For now I just want to get the 13s finished and on, the 32/36 carby rebuilt and fitted and running, and replace the driver's seat. I think those 3 things will make it a much more enjoyable experience, than it currently is. IT IS STILL FANTASTIC to drive. Today was fantastic fun, and it was great to let it stretch its legs, and put some solid kms on it, i loved it, but Im already feeling it due to the broken driver's seat frame doing my back in, and the high RPM on the open roads certainly taxing after a few hours. I think the 3 main things I want/need to do in the near future will just make it that much nicer to drive for now until I decide what to do about the diff or engine or gearbox combination. *in the long term I still think a 5speed conversion is the path I want to go down, but it probably isnt worth it with the tired 1300 still in there* sorry about the epic post. Basically just spilling my thoughts onto the page

Ok its all done and looks good lets put her up for sale all the other motors ive done sold first listing Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

is it a ute? the late utes often have E series seat mountings, but i think 1988 was the first model for that but a sedan/wagon i'd say the nuts to undo the seat rails would be under the car you may find the later seats can be bolted to the XF seat rails without too much modification? but i haven't seen one for so long i can't remember if they are even close