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Lol. Thats a doozy. Soak in wd40 for a day..... Then clean it up and try and 'sleeve' a piece of bar in there. ...one that just fits... not hammer it in... will kill threads.. Then put a layer of arildite on it ... feed it in... let set. Next day put multi grips on bar and hopefully twists out.... But thats a doozy... you snap that or pre snapped for you? Lol Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Do you take the valve springs off and lap the valves?

Nah just my usual degrease and scrub all it needs for a basic kero rebuild if i start farming work out the end profit of about 300 dollars is gone and not even worth doing i spend about 600 on parts and sell em for 990 re ringed new bearings timing chain ect and all parts cleaned and very affordable at 990

That bolt will be useless, you’ll need something with a left hand thread, you’ll just make a mess of it and it’ll be harder to remove, trust me.

You need some of these, The square one is my favourite for snapped spark plugs. Don’t heat it up, alloy doesn’t change colour with heat it’ll just melt and you’ll fuck the head. Buy some of that loctite spray on freezing stuff.

Hehe.... sucks doesnt it. I've done it too mate. Seen as you got the head off you can at least get to it. If it was soft enough.. and you had enough sticking out... could try hitting the edge till it folds in on itself... but you cant lever against a soft alloy head like you can on a cast one. That method is messy and if you miss hit.... not good.... but I have done it on a clevo in desperation. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

I broke a 21mm socket and broke the plug as well they had been in there since 1993

How am i gunna get whats left of a spark plug out of the thread ? I drilled most of it ,what about heating it up with a blow torch to expand it ? Then somehow unscrew it ? If i take it to the machine shop he will charge me at least $100 to fix Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

JUST mild kero based ones cause its alloy,but i wire brush it with the hose dribbling for hours and get it all off chambers as well as intake and exhause runners.

wish i took photos of the gemini head i took in to be cleaned up.. it should come back new looking. this head is pretty clean, did you use wire brush on the drill

Pics Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

By the end of the day it looks heaps better but i will take it down to the machine shop and get ol m8 to check it over also fit new valve stem rubber things

I spent most of the day cleaning up this E1 head almost there just another hour or so and its pretty good Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Have heard about this. I Though I had quite a bit wound into the front but still heaps of room. Maby it's because I run small tires? The wheel alignment guy reconed it was too much caster, even for track work and we agreed to take .5 off it. Heaps of clearance to the bumper. Still oversteers well before under steering, so there is no need to go more agressive (yet)

That's a win!

Hi all, wanting to change my rear brakes from drum to disc, I have a disc diff out of a ZL FAIRLANE, centre is stuffed, wanting to know what's involved in swapping the disc set up onto my XE drum diff? Is it just unbolt all drum brake system and then bolt all disc setup straight onto my housing?

Did disc conversion today, it was all straight bolt on, calipers are at the rear of diff, all holes lined up perfectly.

It's from the outside of the large round bit of the snout (the bearing retainer) to suit the smaller bore of the toploader/single rail bell. I think it was 1.5mm off the diameter. Everything else, IE shaft length, spline count, throwout bearing all interchange. The bell housing bolt pattern is important though. There are threads on here in the transmission section where people have done this (myself included) so read through that first. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk