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They always let go at the worst time. Mine was one of the dreaded plastic EF ones that split where the master bolts on. It showed its ugly head pulling up to a set of lights in traffic on the way home. I had nowhere to go and after stomping the shit out of the pedal, had to swerve onto the median strip (Carlisle ave, Mt Druitt) , which was lucky because if it was any other road without a median strip I would have rammed someone up the arse. I babied it straight to the Ford wreckers to get another one. They knew exactly what had happened when I told them and sure enough, when I pulled it off, there was the crack. Great thread by the way. Loving the DIY Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

U might find the seal is starting to let go, if there was a hole in the diaphragm u would know bout it the brake pedal would be hard as rock. To test if still working fine when car is off press the pedal till rock hard and while still holding the brake down start the car the vacuum should pull the pedal down with ease under the pressure of ur foot Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Under brakes, on a carby or MAF EFI car the engine will likely lean out/die, on a MAP EFI car it would idle high . Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

That’s similar to what my xe did Jack, right before the poo started running down my leg. I heard it kind of pop then the wheezing sound every time the pedal was depressed. Maybe yours is leaking slightly [emoji51]

Great thread mate, very informative and handy for anyone keen to do a bit of diy. I still remember my xe falcon shitting a diaphragm one day on the way to a speedway meet, made the trip very exciting driving to the track with loaded car trailer and a boot full of spares. I almost needed both feet on the brake pedal to pull her up at times [emoji51]

Now after you have it all cleaned up and painted you can put ur seals in using the tools I use the press to put them in but can use the hammer just make sure they are home, the silicon grease is use in the seals. Next put one of the steel plates on the bakerlite and then use some rubber grease on the first diaphragm on the center hole there is a bit of a art to get the plate to sit in the right spot and the diaphragm on behind it, Now the second plate with the seal goes on next and then the second diaphragm will go on and will look like the pic above sitting on press, now put ur push rod back in using rubber grease on it aswell after it's all the way put ur c clip on to hold it in place, you can now slide it back into the bottom half of the case, Now you are getting closer to being done you should have left a front rubber seal and a reaction disc which goes in on top of the c clip then ur push rod that goes into the brake master is next on top place the booster back in to the press, now where the lid will spin on the diaphragm when pressed back together put use rubber grease on the diaphragm side put the spring back in and lid on and line up the two marks that you made in the start before pulling apart, now you can put in ur front seal with its metal plate use a bit of rubber grease on the hole where it goes over the push rod, now you can put in the grommet and one way valve, Now to test which is hard unless you have a vacuum pump to see if it holds Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I think he means the filler tube, which I can't see a problem with. The breather should come off a tree of lines that screw into the top of the tank via a small manifold, off to the charcoal canister. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Exactly, the big filler hose gets a simple plumb into it ,and the return squirts in there. (nothing to do with the tank venting /charcoal system) the complex part for me atm is working out what air cleaner system to run, and how I’d like this motor to look, I like the idea of a blow thru style carb hat connected to a k&N pod or cold air box, but a nice air filter looks good too...and to be making sure I’ve got the right dizzy and Holley connector with plugs and leads to run programable ingnition.. it’s recomended to just do the 4 wire hook up first.. so a lot of guys don’t run the ignition side of Sniper EFi I noticed..( if not controlling timing, that’s a simple 4 wire hook up) and whats up with everybody bagging REDLINE??! This is a good little Aussie company success story.. who has supported the crossflow motor and others, and I’m happy to have there products on my old car..changing to any manifold is not going to net much on a street motor, the efi should atomise better than a 40yo old carb. .https://www.redlineauto.com.au/t-about.aspx

It’s a Return line system.. same as normal EFI..the return line runs back to the tank. It runs a reg inside the Carb so no reg required to run it NA. there is many instal vids on YouTube, as I do each part will link a video on that subject.

The two diaphragms numbers are VH2579 and VH 2580 still need to find the others Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Sorry that's all I got Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

The more pics you have, the better!

Cheers ando I hope it helps out I may have missed a bit here and there but like I said earlier it is easier for to do then explain but if anyone has a question just ask and I will try to help Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

With my o2 sensor in closed loop my cruise driveabilty is poor. The ecu is constantly altering the a/f and varies quite abit depending on temps. I also have low comp and mildish na camshaft which doesnt help. Before my current setup i changed from a redline 4bbl manifold to aussiespeed and they are definitely a better manifold. I agree that its the way to go but it can be made to work for now.

My exact point. If you follow the guidelines and target 12.8 you could burn a cylinder with the Redline. Modify it to 12.0 and watch 1&6 in particular and you would be on a winner. But if your spending the coin to have a nice cruiser, why not spend the coin on a manifold with even flow-balance. It's not all about making hp&torque although that is good. It's about making a happy engine. Happy engines make more power and torque and use less fuel to do it. That makes for a good cruiser in my opinion. The gain most experience when going to triples is largely due to even cylinder fill.

I could be wrong but I thought the xh firewall was still the same as all x series Fords?? If so it will fit. You will need a factory manual computer too or a j3 chip to get it to idle properly ( you can manually adjust the idle solenoid and disconnect it but this will make for a rough idle when the a/c cuts in ) If that xh panel van is a factory manual and still a solid vehicle I’d think twice before tearing it apart. Have a look at the prices panel vans are pulling these days. You could sell it whole, pay for your conversion and buy a turbo kit too.

Just found this thread as my auto has just died. So am thinking to do same conversion too. So binary_fuel did you go ahead with this swap any problems etc? Q. I have an xh 5 speed manual van that I can acquire would pedal box transfer to the earlier body and would there be any other problems can anyone advise or. am I better off finding another auto box thanks. Demmo

As for fuel system, something like a fitech fuel commander would be easy. Easy to rig something up with the same principles. Although a small surge tank is fairly simple to set up. Better to do it correct from the start

Wouldnt the sniper kit allow the tuner to select a targeted a/f ratio. This will make the tune safe but not ideal for all out power. Set the a/f so the leanest cylinders are safe going off plug readings? Covers the uneven cylinder flow. Iv done something similar on my efi set up with xf banana manifold but mines turbo so rich is good for me.