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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/26/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Free.51

    Rear rotors

    Finally got the hardline nut undone today using vice grips & 19mm spanner & the flid pissed out which is a good thing then put on another hose & bled the caliper & all 4 brakes are working now Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
  2. 2 points
    I'd try some of those Global West upper arms and/or the TCP arms, for their inbuilt shelby drop... Then the wheels should camber inwards, as the suspension compresses.
  3. 1 point
    XPT

    Alloy Head XFlow Header Flange

    Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk
  4. 1 point
    XFtoXE

    Brake booster

    Hi all Need some help with a brake booster out of a XE. I don't want to spend $400+ on a refurbished one, so i'm after a kit with the diaphragms but can't find anyone that sells them. Does anybody know where to find one. If not is there a later model booster that will fit for example XF or later. Any help appreciated. Peter.
  5. 1 point
    Free.51

    Rear rotors

    I didnt check it when i took it off i just saw fluid dripping out the hardline & was excited, im guessing the flex hose was blocked cos it was bone dry at both ends & i did the job at my brothers cos my trolley jack is fucked too now & i just threw it in the bin
  6. 1 point
    Free.51

    Rear rotors

    Thanks mate
  7. 1 point
    jca25

    Rear rotors

    Glad u have all fixed
  8. 1 point
    2redrovers

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    And some bloody fast escorteryness
  9. 1 point
    2redrovers

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Just some escortness... Some mostly escortness and other fordyness...
  10. 1 point
    Forgot to add, the 16s will put the rim 1/2" up higher in relation to the ball joint, allowing more sidewall clearance (ie: the sidewall bulge sits higher and is less due to lower profile. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point
    when the tyre rolls on turn in, will it have a chance of rubbing the sidewall on the upper arm?
  12. 1 point
    All 20mm. I'd hate for you to blow money on something you may not need. Make sure you go over the thread I linked to determine if you actually NEED shock spacers. If you do, No problem. Will you have issues? If you jamming another 5mm (Strut brace) under the shock spacer I'm going to say yes. It will be VERY close to the bonnet, and the deflection in the upper shock mount bushes as you drive over bumps might be all it needs to wack a dint in your bonnet. In fact, I recommended anyone running these as is that they should check clearances, as there are small differences in manufacturing tolerances, shocks and bushes (rubber vs polyurethane), it might clear one bonnet on a setup but will hit the next (although i've had no reports of any bonnets been hit yet) You can easily avoid this by cutting the top off your Shocky, when assembled. Only a couple mm above the nut, then cut a slot in the top with a 1mm blade on an angle grinder that you can put a large flatblade screw driver in to hold the top of the shock still when removing/installing. Go for a drive without your bonnet on and watch your shocky, you'll see how much they move when going over bumps. Plus driving without a bonnet is badass.
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