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I had a set on the cuzzo for years, they fit under stock rocker covers, never had a problem with them that was their fault (I had a retainer that the collets started pulling through and damaged one rocker, but you can buy all the pieces individually if you ever need to repair any rockers) and now they are on another members xd

A bit further back it was mentioned about the tool ( it’s a square block) to wind in the calliper, this is available from super cheap for a $20 or so.. I set caliper up with a gclamp or vice from memory to hold it , and the tool did the job winding it in, I put a extension bar into the square with a ratchet... there a universal thing designed to fit many Calipers. just wanted to add some input..

Yep Scorpion do them, end up being similar price to YT but there are some complaints about geometry ie: they're the same one used on big block chevs, but clevos need to be slightly different in pushrod cup position. Harland Sharp don't seem to do clevos and generally, they seem a bit pricey anyway. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

900 is a bit steep, I was eyeing them off for 600-odd a while back (VPW) part number is: ST2015 adjustable ST2035 non-adjustable http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/511516?Brand=Yella Terra Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

yeah you still have to get your geometry near perfect even with the bolt on adj,wise to buy at least 050 shorter pushrods cause the adjuster has massive adj on it ,i made a fatal mistake on using too long pushrods and too much preload was on it,and it ate the cam in 7000kms,went 100thou shorter on pushrods and the adjuster did its job getting the right length pushrod.

Yeah ChestnutXE, pic was just for show. I'm chasing a lifter/valvetrain 'tick'. Debating whether to just use shims, CBF buying new pushrods, or just buy adj rollers. Shims - $80 Roller - $900 Hmmmm...........

Ok, old thread, but has anyone used adjustable YT roller rockers on their Clevo?? I did a bit of research, and found the bolt on adjustables YT6015, that use existing 5/16" studs, no machining required... anyone got a set fitted?

Sounds like a plan....... upload a vid or some pics if ya can. Show us what you found, always helps others, and lets you keep a 'diary' of your build. The rear calipers on XC/XD/XE (and its brothers) are super expensive, and being able to overhaul yours and diagnose issues is really helpful. Good luck.

Ill get the hose nxt week & if its still blocked ill get a hardline too

hard line is cheaper.. .. probably about same actually, $20 ish i'd guess for the short pipe $35 for the hose.. you would budget to do them all if so

I reckon

Hydraulic brake pressure is somewhere between 1200 and 1800 PSI. Reckon it's blocked......

Yes I've had a few too. I had an XC hose , no matter what I did even with over 100 psi air it was solid

You could try cracking the steel line where it goes into the flex hose . That will tell for sure if it is the hose

i've had this a few times now as i've had 30 odd year old cars now quite often.. the hose ruptures internally

I took the bleed nipple off & cleaned it its good , then got my brother to push the pedal no fluid came out so then i undid the hose from the caliper & pushed the pedal many times again & still no fluid so looks like the hose needs to be replaced which i might do tomorrow & hopefully that gets the caliper working again

that said.. the XD ghia/ZJ fairlane probably XC and prior same.. they wind in the same way(2 pins instead of keyway thing) and those pad's aren't "located" (they have a spring clip that clips to the piston though i think) so maybe it will be totally fine

Im just sitting here watching tv & going over the pad & piston in my mind & now its just hit me what u were talking about Dean the triangle hangs out a bit but once the piston is turned to the "correct posirion" there is enough room for the "triangle to sit in one of the 2 grooves on the piston thats that stupid tool goes into to wind the piston in or out......oh well too late now. I seriously dont know why they just didnt use a push in method like they did for the front calipers it makes life so much easier

to position the brake inner pad with the piston you can rotate the piston into the "correct position" so it lines up

that "protrusion" on the inner pad is there to locate the piston for the handbrake not to twist the piston with it when it rotates.. you may find that causes an issue? i'd also pull the bleed nipple out, i usually run a bit of wire or drill bit through and blow through them.. or swap with a known unblocked one. with the bleed screw removed it MUST flow fluid,if not it has to be a stuffed or kinked pipe or hose.