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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/16/2017 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    bear351c

    Main bearings

    Yep, all good advice. ^ ^ ^ Can use 2 long scredrivers to pry against the main caps and the crank webs to make the crank go back and forth. Should hear a little clunk, can use a dial indicator on the crank snout if ya got one. Careful not to damage the sides of that bearing ya have in your mitts. Thats the thrust faces, they control crank 'float'. Bend one, and you'll have no movement in the crank, back and forth. Assemble with cam lube (or thick Gear oil, in a pinch. ) Most important..!! Clean, clean and clean. Wash your hands, clean rags, clean oil, close the shed doors, blah, blah, blah.................
  2. 1 point
    gerg

    Main bearings

    Use Plastigauge to double-check clearance. After that, lube each bearing (not the outside!) and each time you torque one cap down, spin the crank to make sure nothing's gone tight. Crank end clearance without a dial gauge or feeler gauges can be at least felt by levering the crank back and forth and listening/feeling for a little clunk. End clearance isn't hugely critical and it's best to be loose rather than than tight (in this case lol) Take a few more moments to do these checks as the alternative could be much more painful. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
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