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I did put an XF door on the drivers side as I couldn't get an XG handle for it & yes the old one was cracked at the bottom as well, so I thought just swap the whole thing out for an xf with good handle which got a plate welded over a slight crack & changed the catch on the body it's not quite lined up and rubbing on the lower corner under the hinge . I've since found out you can use an XF left handle turned around to fit an XG right door pretty logical as the arm inside is opposite on each model , I'd really like to use the old XG door with a hinge plate welded in & hopefully I kept the catch bit to suit . The rubbers , interior & side mirror we're in better nick . I'll ask my boarder who's a bit of a panel beater if he's up for it & what he reckons about swapping the handles out for EB I saw a pic on the Ford mods site & looked good . I also saw there are hinge repair kits available. Rather do it properly than the quick fix it got last time . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dont over think it... XG Electrical systems are very simple. It could be a fault fuel pressure reg, a faulty relay, or a faulty smart lock module. Those are the three things I'd be going after. Eliminate the fuel pressure reg and pump, by pulling the relay and hotwiring the pump. (whilst watching a fuel pressure gauge) If you can force the pump to run good, then go after either the relay, or the Smart lock module.

thanks for reply I have 2 grey relays next to the booster so will try swapping them around. I think someone has played there before as the wires have push on spades connected straight to each relay an not into a black Bakelite holder like the relays next to battery anyway will go an re read your posts on your ute thanks again cheers Demmo

if it's an XG the engine is an EB ED engine and so is the way the wiring works.. pic of XG below if you have an XH, then the EF is the book you'd want pic below of the XH

You can reco those non-detatchable guns, did it a couple times on my old welder. Replace the liner with a generic off the shelf replacement and make sure all contacts and joins are good/sealed (gas line runs through the trigger on those) My very well used unimig 180. The problematic relay is the blue one in upper center of the board. If it sticks I get a dull click out of the other relay, no gas flow and no wire feed. It seems to be the one that makes the wire actually feed out and turns on the voltage to it. Some welders are basically live all the time, older basic models without the voltage reduction circuit. A problem with yours maybe related to this or it could be that the voltage side is functional but the feed isn't. End up with a live wire that doesn't move. I had something like this when my unimig cracked it the first time. Fixed under warranty, guy stopped short of actually agreeing with me that I just wore it out lol.