Auto Electrics Latest Topics

EA/EB/XG Dizzy with XF EST computer?

Sun, 04 Jan 2026 03:32:46 +0000

I'm looking at doing a bit of a dodgy with my young blokes 89 XF falcon ute, needs an engine and I have a spare running 93 XG engine in my shed with an EA cfi manifold fitted to it.

My plan is to shove this in his ute to get it going as I have all the engine mounts, sway bar, bellhouse.and clutch from the XG so fitting isnt a problem.

My main issue is the XG dizzy which is the same as the EA/EB unit. Can this be wired up to the XF's EST computer?

We are intending to run an ADM weber on the CFI manifold and fit a holley electric pump to feed it.

So while fitting a streetfire is the obvious solution, he doesnt have the money for one yet, but all the EST gear is still in the ute.

Can this be made to work with the EST?

EF/EL/AU/BA/TERRITORY THERMO-FAN WIRING and THEORY OF OPERATION

Tue, 21 Oct 2025 15:37:30 +0000

EF and EL Thermofans theory of operation.pdf

EL Falcon Thermatic Fan Wiring.pdf

Ford BA Falcon, Quick and Easy Modifications

The Purpose of this document is to Outline wiring information for the EF/EL/AU/BA and Territory Thermo-fans.
This Document describes fitting and wiring thermo-fans in their respective factory fitted format - (eg, EF fans into EF),

and also how to retro-fit thermo-fans designed for different models - (eg, AU Fans into an EF).

The thermo-fan wiring and relay information detailed within this document includes, but is not limited to,

EFs 3 Mode (4 Relay) Fan system.
ELs 2 Mode (3 Relay) Fan System.
AUs 2 Mode (3 Relay) Fan System.
BAs 2 Mode (3 Relay) Fan System.

EFs 3 Mode (4 Relay Fan System) - Description

EF/NF/DF model falcons are fitted with two electric fans controlled by four relays linked to the EEC module.
During Service operations ensure that the fan is not rotated in a direction opposing normal operation as this may damage the motor.
Three operating modes are used (Excluding OFF) depending on the status of the four relays (Determined by the EEC module).
The different operating modes provide different cooling capabilities.

Mode	FAN SPEED rpm		RELAY 1 (N/O)	RELAY 2 (N/O)	RELAY 3 (N/C)	RELAY 4 (N/C)
Mode	M1	M2	RELAY 1 (N/O)	RELAY 2 (N/O)	RELAY 3 (N/C)	RELAY 4 (N/C)
1	Part 1400rpm	Part 1400rpm	Off Open	On Closed Power to M2	Off Closed	On Open Diverts Power to M1
2	Full 2300rpm	Part 1400rpm	Off Open	On Closed Power to M2	On Open Power to M1	Off Closed
3	Full 2300rpm	Full 2300rpm	On Closed Power to M2	On Closed Power to M2	On Open Power to M1	Off Closed

EL/AU/BA 2 Mode (3 Relay Fan System) - Description

EL/AU/BA model falcons are fitted with two electric fans controlled by three relays linked to the EEC / Visteon Oak module.
During Service operations ensure that the fan is not rotated in a direction opposing normal operation as this may damage the motor.
Two operating modes are used (Excluding OFF) depending on the status of the Three relays (Determined by the EEC /Visteon Oak module).
The different operating modes provide different cooling capabilities.
WARNING - On BA/Territory models, the Fans may start with the ignition in any position !
It is recommended that you disconnect the earth lead on the battery, before servicing the thermo fans!

Mode	FAN SPEED rpm		RELAY 1 (N/O)	RELAY 2 (N/O)	RELAY 3 (N/C)
Mode	M1	M2	RELAY 1 (N/O)	RELAY 2 (N/O)	RELAY 3 (N/C)
1 Low	Part 1400rpm	Part 1400rpm	On	Off	Off
2	Full 2300rpm	Full 2300rpm	On	On	On

Thermo Fan wiring information

This section describes the differences in the thermo fan wiring for EF/EL/AU and BA model falcons.
Simply put, the main difference is that the EF model thermo fans have an extra wire (Orange Colour) from the vehicle going to the fan to allow for an extra fan speed for the Right Hand Side Fan.
Because of this, the right hand side fan plug for the EFs (From the fan) has 3 wires going to it (Red, White, and Black).
The Right Hand side plug is the same for all models, and (From the fan) only has 2 wires going to it (Red and Black).

Wiring an EF Thermo Fan to an EF

This information is provided just in case the Fan plugs have been cut or removed, (habib-ed).
The following chart will give you a better description of what wire goes where.

Wire	Plug	Goes to	Purpose
Black	RHs 2 Pin - 2 wires	Black Wire on Fan	Supplies ground to RHS fan (Permanent)
Violet / Yellow Stripe	RHs 2 Pin - 2 wires	Red Wire on Fan	Supplies power to RHS fan via Relay 3 (SPDT)
Orange 1	LHs 4 Pin - 3 Wires	Red Wire on Fan	Supplies power to RHS fan via Relay 1 (SPST)
Orange 2	LHs 4 Pin - 3 Wires	White Wire on Fan	Supplies power to RHS fan via Relay 2 (SPST)
Pink / White	LHs 4 Pin - 3 Wires	Black Wire on Fan	Supplies ground to RHS fan via Relay 4 (SPDT) Or Ground Routed through RHS fan via Relay 3

Wiring an EL/AU/BA Thermo Fan to an EL/AU/BA

This information is provided just in case the Fan plugs have been cut or removed, (habib-ed).
The following chart will give you a better description of what wire goes where.

Wire	Plug	Goes to	Purpose
Black	RHs 2 Pin - 2 wires	Black Wire on Fan	Supplies ground to RHS fan (Permanent)
Orange	RHs 2 Pin - 2 Wires	Red Wire on Fan	Supplies power to RHS fan via Relay 2
Violet / Yellow Stripe	LHs 4 Pin - 2 wires	Red Wire on Fan	Supplies power to LHS fan via Relay 1 (SPST)
Pink / White	LHs 4 Pin - 2 Wires	Black Wire on Fan	Supplies ground to LHS fan via Relay 3 (SPST) Or Ground Routed through LHS fan via Relay 2

Wiring an EF Thermo Fan to an EL/AU/BA

The following information is provided, should you only have EF thermo-fans available.
Basically the extra wire on LHS thermo fan (White colour from the fan) is connected to the other power lead (Red Colour from the fan) on the same plug.
You will need to modify the plugs in order for the fans to work.
One way to do this (Not pretty), is to cut the fan plugs off the ends from the vehicle side, and use Female spade connectors, plugging these directly into the fan plugs (on the fan side).
The following chart will give you a better description of what wire goes where.

Wire	Plug	Goes to	Purpose
Black	RHs 2 Pin - 2 wires	Black Wire on Fan	Supplies ground to RHS fan (Permanent)
Orange	RHs 2 Pin - 2 Wires	Red and White Wire on Fan	Supplies power to RHS fan via Relay 2
Violet / Yellow Stripe	LHs 4 Pin - 2 wires	Red Wire on Fan	Supplies power to LHS fan via Relay 1 (SPST)
Pink / White	LHs 4 Pin - 2 Wires	Black Wire on Fan	Supplies ground to LHS fan via Relay 3 (SPST) Or Ground Routed through LHS fan via Relay 2

Wiring an EL/AU/BA Thermo Fan to an EF

The following information is provided, should you NOT have an EF fan available.
The extra orange wire on for the LHS thermo fan (goes to the White colour on an EF fan) must be connected to the other Orange Fan power lead on the same plug.
This ensures that the fan is powered up regardless of the Fan speed mode required by the EEC.

Additionally, you will need to modify the plugs in order for the fans to work.
One way to do this (Not pretty), is to cut the fan plugs off the ends from the vehicle side, and use Female spade connectors, plugging these directly into the fan plugs (on the fan side).
The following chart will give you a better description of what wire goes where.

Wire	Plug	Goes to	Purpose
Black	RHs 2 Pin - 2 wires	Black Wire on Fan	Supplies ground to RHS fan (Permanent)
Violet / Yellow Stripe	RHs 2 Pin - 2 wires	Red Wire on Fan	Supplies power to RHS fan via Relay 3 (SPDT)
Orange 1	LHs 4 Pin - 3 Wires	Red Wire on Fan	Supplies power to RHS fan via Relay 1 (SPST) 2 Orange lines should be connected
Orange 2	LHs 4 Pin - 3 Wires	Red Wire on Fan	Supplies power to RHS fan via Relay 2 (SPST) 2 Orange lines should be connected
Pink / White	LHs 4 Pin - 3 Wires	Black Wire on Fan	Supplies ground to RHS fan via Relay 4 (SPDT) Or Ground Routed through RHS fan via Relay 3

Diagnostic Testing (only EF/EL Models presently)

There are 2 methods to diagnose problems with the thermo fan system on EF and EL Model Falcons.
The first method is by far the easiest and trouble free solution, as it does not require diagnostic mode.

Testing the Thermo Fan operation - Easy method

1. Ensure that it is safe to start the engine on the vehicle to be tested. (I.E. no tools in engine bay, etc).
2. Start the engine of the vehicle.
3. For non climate control cars - Turn the Air-conditioning to MAX, and the Fan speed to MAX.
3. For auto climate control cars - Press AUTO, and set the temperature to the lowest possible setting.
Once this has been carried out, the Thermo fans should be running at their High Speed setting.

Testing the Thermo Fan operation - Using the EEC Diagnostic mode.
1. With the Ignition Switch Off, Connect the Engine STI Input to ground, (The STI Input is the First pin from the left, upper row, connect this to the Pin directly below it)
2. Place the gear selector into DRIVE to turn the Thermo Fans On, then Place the Transmission into NEUTRAL to stop Fan operation. For EL Falcons, repeating the Drive to Neutral operation, cycles through the various fan speeds
3. If both fans do not operate, then you may have trouble codes logged within the EEC-V memory. You must clear these codes for the Thermo fan test to work !

Multimeter's

Sun, 26 May 2024 12:36:15 +0000

There seems to be a large range of multimeter's to choose from, and some have unique features that others don't...

A couple I have considered are;

https://www.totaltools.com.au/151476-tti-electrician-s-trms-digital-multimeter-manual-ranging-ttidm1000v

This one has the ability to read RPM, but not sure if it reads by connecting a wire to the H.T. lead, or by holding it close to it, or both ? Some read by laser...

https://sydneytools.com.au/product/sidchrome-scmt70617-digital-automotive-multimeter

Not sure what to get at this stage... Any thoughts ?

Right hand indicator not turning off

Mon, 18 Aug 2025 04:46:09 +0000

Heys Guy's

After a quick fix .

Right hand indicator isn't switching off when stalk in neutral position, pretty sure also when I went to indicate left hazard light's started flashing.

Have I messed with some wiring or something, I did drill a couple of holes in the top of the dash just to the left of the instrument cluster but surely wiring lower down .

Blue dots are roughly where I drilled a couple little holes to mount a tacho...

Surely haven't drilled into wiring have i...

On some brighter news, serpentine kit from CVF racing has cleared customs & should be here any day

Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram

Thu, 08 Sep 2022 06:28:40 +0000

Hello all,

According to the Xf Manual, these are the colours for the ignition switch

[EARTH] BLACK
[POWER] YELLOW
[STARTER] RED/BLUE
[IGNITION] RED/GREEN
[ACCESSORY] BLACK/GREEN
[BRAKE FAIL] VIOLET/WHITE

My wire colours don't match up to these. Why is this?

Cheers

XD-XH - BA Falcon Wiper Motor Conversion

Mon, 07 Jul 2025 04:28:09 +0000

Some archived info from around the net, on fitting a BA-BF wiper motor to XD-XH Falcons

Ford Falcon XD XE XF Hi all, Looking to improve the windscreen wiper performance on an XD. Has anyone been able to improve it Re-firb or re-fit Facebook.pdf

Fairlane headlight switch

Sun, 01 Jun 2025 07:20:21 +0000

So the variable resistor in my ZD's headlight switch has clapped out. I bought a switch from rare spares and the dash lights are very dim at best. Is there a way to bypass the resistor on my original switch? Preferably without starting a fire behind my dash...

BF Fairmont tail and dash lights not functional

Sun, 01 Jun 2025 08:53:38 +0000

I'm working on a 07 fairmont for a friend that has no tail or dash lights even though all the fuses are ok and it has no relevant dtc's. I haven't gotten a good chance to look at it and inspect the harnesses but I'm hoping someone here has some pointers as to what it could be. Right now Im suspecting a break in the harness for the tail lights but I really have no clue to whats wrong. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer, I only get at this thing half an hour at a time so any and all help is welcome!

XG won't start then won't turn off.

Thu, 06 Mar 2025 06:40:15 +0000

Hey All,

Got a strange one today. Replaced a broken odometer gear in the speedo. Bit fiddly but easy enough to do. However once I hooked my battery back up the fuel pump primed and a clicking sound came out of one of the relays. Inside the cab the Altinator and smart lock lights were on. Key was OUT of the ignition. Put the key in to try to start it and nothing.

Put the battery on a charger for a couple of hours. Came back and smart lock light was off but Alt light still on. Ute started ok but the ALT gauge showed no charge. Went for a quick drive and nothing changed, then I went to turn it off and it wouldn't turn off! Even disconnected the neg terminal. Only when i did the pos terminal is stopped.

Any ideas? Do I need a Preist to throw holy water over it or something??

XD Tacho wiring

Thu, 30 Jan 2025 06:36:06 +0000

Hey all, I've got an XD was 250 but converted to 351c, trying to sort the tacho wiring, everything seems to point to pink and blue wire to the coil negative, but the pink and blue wire is on the coil positive. does that seem right. Engine is from 77 Fairlane but has electronic ignition, not sure if that's original or has been grafted in somehow. the whole engine and trans wiring job is pretty average, not sure what's been hacked and what hasn't.

Thanks

XF Ghia - Fuel pump stopped activating

Fri, 03 Jan 2025 00:39:14 +0000

My fuel pump is no longer starting when you operate the ignition. The pump works fine if you hot wire it. Can anyone tell me where the fuse is for it?

Troubleshooting so far:

I had a flat battery caused by a door lamp operating 24/7 due to a broken switch (must fix that). The car was running really well before the flat battery.

I charged the battery up (neg batt terminal disconnected while charging) and then tried to start the car - did not hear the fuel pump operate - car no start

I took the fuel pump out - was in surprisingly good condition. Operates when connected to a battery - no issues there (drained the tank varnish while I was in there)

I turned to the pump relay under the dash near the brake booster. There is no power coming to the relay on the signal wire when I operate the ignition (I can operate the pump manually when I put 12v to the pump wires - that side of the relay has constant 12v to it).

The Gregory's manual says to check that the fuel pump fuse is serviceable (pg94). I can't find a fuel pump fuse anywhere. I've looked under the steering column and all fuses are good (most are lights, instruments etc - One 10a fuse is call engine and it's fine. There are 2 barrel fuses coming off the +ive battery terminal and they are fine also.

Any suggestions?

BA Regulator Fuse Box

Sat, 21 Dec 2024 09:39:49 +0000

Hello OzFalcon. Does anybody know if the Regulator Fuse Box of a BA in a LPG Gas only Green Head is the same as the Box in the Petrol BA.I need a new one and a Good Green Head one has come up But I thought__ _ _ Hmm?? Are they Different. Also I would like to Wish All OzFalcon People are Very Happy-Healthy -Safe & Sane Christmas and a Wonderful Better Year for 2025, Searley.

XE ute wiring harness

Thu, 12 Dec 2024 22:48:41 +0000

I have just found my engine bay wiring harness has been burnt because it has dropped down onto the manifold of the Cleveland. Obviously this has caused many wires to short out and there are burnt wires right up the harness and the more I unwrap the worse it gets. I am thinking it is beyond repair. Where would I get a harness please. Cheers Tony

XG or EB S Pack Dash to XF wiring chart.

Sat, 24 Aug 2013 01:52:46 +0000

Just sorted the EB Fairmont cluster into my Clevo powered XF.....

You'll need:

XG Cluster Surround. (with screws & screw covers)

XG or EB Cluster.

XG Cluster Support frame. (with screws)

XG Plug & Loom (cut as far back to main harness as possible)

XF Cluster to destroy if you want plug & play, if not you can hard wire.

Tried to post here but can't post excel for some reason!!!

If you want a copy, send me a message & include your email address & I will email it to you!

Cheers John.

EF EL and XH Instrument Cluster INFO

Mon, 14 Oct 2024 12:23:53 +0000

Document Description

This Document Describes the differences between various models of Instrument Clusters fitted to the EF/EL/NF/NL/DF/DL Series Falcons.
It also has information on Upgrading an Instrument Cluster, modifications that need to be made, wiring information, swapping odometer readings, and some points to watch out for when performing these upgrades.

With the EF series of Falcons (and Derivatives), there were four models of Instrument Clusters that were fitted to these vehicles. Theses Clusters Featured white Needles, with White Illumination, LCD based Odometers, Seat Belt Warning, and a Unique Diagnostic Mode
With the Advent of the EL, all these clusters were revised to give a cleaner look, with Orange Needles, Less "Tick Lines" on the Speedo and Tacho, and a new Fuel Door Release Indicator.
A new Cluster was also added to the range, which was fitted to the XR (Tickford) series of Vehicles. This new cluster is exactly the same as the Fairmont Mid Series Cluster, with the exception of a Tickford Logo being placed on the Tacho Section.
The Following Images of Clusters have been taken from various EF/NF/DF Models, and include,

NF Fairlane Instrument Cluster (High Series) as fitted to Fairlane, and LTD Models
EF Chaser (Police) (Mid Series Special) Instrument Cluster, as fitted to ex Police Pursuit Models
EF Sports Cluster (Mid Series) Instrument Cluster, as fitted to Fairmont, Fairmont Ghia, XR6, XR8 models
EF Standard Cluster (Low Series) Instrument Cluster, as fitted to Gli, and Futura Models

NOTE : If fitting Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia Instrument Cluster to a GLi/Futura/XR Model, it will be necessary to add a Resistor to the Instrument Cluster Circuit Board, in order for the LCD Backlighting to function correctly.
Please see below for further information regarding this
A Big thankyou goes out to WAYNE for Discovering this Interesting Quirk with the EL Clusters, and for working out how to fix this problem !

EF Base Series Cluster

The EF Base Series Cluster has the following Features

White Illumination, with White Cluster Needles
220Km Electronic Speedo, with 10Km Speed Numeral Markings, and 5Km Line Markings
6000 RPM Tacho, with 1000RPM Numeral Markings, and 500RPM Line Markings
Fuel Gauge with Electronic Dampening with Low Fuel Warning Lamp
Temperature Gauge, with high Temperature warning Lamp
Seatbelt Warning Lamp
Smartlock Warning Lamp
Park Brake Warning Lamp
Brake Fail Warning Lamp
Turn Signal and High Beam Indicators
Lights on with Ignition off warning lamp and Tone
Low Oil Warning Lamp
Alternator Warning Lamp
Low Coolant Warning Lamp (Fitted to Futura and Police/Taxi Pack Models
Service Due Spanner Warning
Air Bag Fault indicator
ABS Fault Indicator (where fitted)
Auto Transmission economy mode indicator
Cruise Control Indicator (where fitted)
Spot Lamps Indicator (there, but not wired up).
Diagnostic Mode

EF Mid Series Cluster

The EF Mid Series Cluster is similar to the EF Base series Cluster, and has the following extra Features

Oil Pressure Gauge
Battery Voltage Gauge
Low Windscreen Washer Fluid
In addition to these features, the Mid Series Cluster has the following Features that are common with the Base Series Cluster.
White Illumination, with White Cluster Needles
220Km Electronic Speedo, with 10Km Speed Numeral Markings, and 5Km Line Markings
6000 RPM Tacho, with 1000RPM Numeral Markings, and 500RPM Line Markings
Fuel Gauge with Electronic Dampening with Low Fuel Warning Lamp
Temperature Gauge, with high Temperature warning Lamp
Seatbelt Warning Lamp
Smartlock Warning Lamp
Park Brake Warning Lamp
Brake Fail Warning Lamp
Turn Signal and High Beam Indicators
Lights on with Ignition off warning lamp and Tone
Low Oil Warning Lamp
Alternator Warning Lamp
Low Coolant Warning Lamp (Fitted to Futura and Police/Taxi Pack Models
Service Due Spanner Warning
Air Bag Fault indicator
ABS Fault Indicator (where fitted)
Auto Transmission economy mode indicator
Cruise Control Indicator (where fitted)
Spot Lamps Indicator (there, but not wired up).
Diagnostic Mode

EF Chaser (Police) Cluster (Part Number 94DA-10849-BB)

The EF Chaser (Police) Series Cluster is a special issue cluster, and was made only available to Police issue EF Falcons.
These Falcons had a number of upgrades made to the vehicle, with the Instrument Cluster being one of them.
The Chaser (police) Cluster is based on the Mid Series Instrument Cluster, but with 2 very important modifications made to it.

Instead of a Diagnostic Mode that is available with all other EF series Clusters, the EF Police Cluster has a Speedo Calibration Feature, which allows the user to calibrate the Speedo, and Odometer Readings with a percentage error.
These Clusters are very rare, and a re a much sought after item because of this calibration feature, as it makes wheel, tyre, and Diff Changes very easy in regards to calibrating the Speedo.
The Calibration range can be made between +-10%, with 0.5% increments.
The Speedo has Markings every 2Kmph, for improved Speedo accuracy.
Much like the EF Mid Series Instrument Cluster, the EF Chaser (Police) Cluster has the following features
Oil Pressure Gauge
Battery Voltage Gauge
Low Windscreen Washer Fluid
White Illumination, with White Cluster Needles
220Km Electronic Speedo, with 10Km Speed Numeral Markings, and 2Km Line Markings
6000 RPM Tacho, with 1000RPM Numeral Markings, and 100RPM Line Markings
Fuel Gauge with Electronic Dampening with Low Fuel Warning Lamp
Temperature Gauge, with high Temperature warning Lamp
Seatbelt Warning Lamp
Smartlock Warning Lamp
Park Brake Warning Lamp
Brake Fail Warning Lamp
Turn Signal and High Beam Indicators
Lights on with Ignition off warning lamp and Tone
Low Oil Warning Lamp
Alternator Warning Lamp
Low Coolant Warning Lamp (Fitted to Futura and Police/Taxi Pack Models
Service Due Spanner Warning
Air Bag Fault indicator
ABS Fault Indicator (where fitted)
Auto Transmission economy mode indicator
Cruise Control Indicator (where fitted)
Spot Lamps Indicator (there, but not wired up).
NOTE : Diagnostic Mode is not available on the Police Instrument Clusters, as this mode is replaced by the Calibration Mode

NF Fairlane (High Series) Cluster

The NF Fairlane, and DF LTD Instrument Clusters (High Series) are very similar in layout, to the EF Series of Clusters, but unfortunately, very few parts are interchangeable between the two.
These clusters feature Unique Background Lettering / Graphics, Needles, Bulb Holders, LCD Panel, and Warning Lamps.
Other Features include

Oil Pressure Gauge
Battery Voltage Gauge
Low Windscreen Washer Fluid Warning Lamp (On LCD)
White Illumination, with White Cluster Needles
220Km Electronic Speedo, with 10Km Speed Numeral Markings, and 5Km Line Markings
6000 RPM Tacho, with 1000RPM Numeral Markings, and 100RPM Line Markings
Fuel Gauge with Electronic Dampening with Low Fuel Warning Lamp
Temperature Gauge, with high Temperature warning Lamp
Seatbelt Warning Lamp
Smartlock Warning Lamp
Park Brake Warning Lamp
Brake Fail Warning Lamp
Turn Signal and High Beam Indicators
Lights on with Ignition off warning lamp and Tone
Low Oil Warning Lamp
Alternator Warning Lamp
Low Coolant Warning Lamp
Service Due Spanner Warning (On LCD Panel)
Air Bag Fault indicator Lamp
ABS Fault Indicator Lamp
Auto Transmission economy mode indicator (On LCD)
Cruise Control Indicator (On LCD)
Check Suspension Warning Lamp
Spot Lamps Indicator (there, but not wired up).
Automatic Transmission Gear Position Indicator
Vehicle Outline, with Door Ajar, Boot, and Fuel Flap Status Indicators (On LCD)
Park Lamp Bulb Out Warning (On LCD)
Brake Lamp Bulb Out Warning (On LCD)
Diagnostic Mode

Upgrading and swapping Instrument Clusters

With exception to the NF Fairlane cluster, and fitting Fairmont Clusters to GLi/Futura/XR models, it is possible to change between different Cluster models rather painlessly.
The Low, Mid and Police Clusters all use the same connectors, same Bulb holders, same needles, and very similar circuit boards / Needle Assemblies.
NOTE : Fairmont, Fairmont Ghia, and EL-GT Clusters are missing 1 Resistor, that is used to allow LCD Illumination, with the Park Lamps on !
When fitting an EF/EL Fairmont, EF/EL Fairmont Ghia, or ELGT Instrument Cluster to an EF/EL GLi/Futura/XR model Falcon, you will Need to add this resistor for the LCD Panels to function correctly.
Without this resistor, the LCD Panels (Clock/Trip Computer/Odometer/Climate Control) WILL NOT ILLUMINATE AT ALL WHEN THE PARK LAMPS OR HEADLAMPS HAVE BEEN TURNED ON !)
NOTE : This resistor is not required when Fitting Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia/EL-GT/Fairlane/LTD Clusters to vehicles fitted with a High Series BEM (Fairmont/Ghia/EL-GT/Fairlane/LTD)
Information for fitting this resistor (and the reasons behind it - are outlined below.

Some important steps to watch out for when doing an Instrument Cluster conversion will include,

1. As stated above, when fitting a Fairmont/Ghia, or GT Cluster to a GLi/Futura/XR Model, you will need to add 1 Resistor to the Cluster Circuit Board - This procedure is outlined below
2. The Odometer Reading will need to be changed. (Remember your Pink slip will have this reading on it from your previous years Registration - There is a $10,000 fine for Fraudulently Winding Back your Odometer Reading.)
3. If Upgrading from a Base Instrument Cluster, The Oil Pressure Switch will need to be replaced with an Oil Pressure sensor.
4. If adding the Low Coolant Warning Lamp on Gli Vehicles, an extra wire, and a Coolant Sensor switch will need to be added. (Note All Clusters have the ability to display the Low Coolant Output).
5. If adding the Low Windscreen Washer Level Warning Lamp, a new Washer Bottle, with Level sensor, and an extra line will need to be added for the Warning to work. (Note All Clusters have the ability to display the Low Windscreen washer Level LCD Warning).

Some Common misconceptions with the EF and EL series Clusters include
1. There is no difference with V8 and I6 Tacho sections ! - Don’t ask me why, but I definitely have a V8 Fairlane Cluster fitted to my EF, and it has an Inline 6 motor. The Tacho section on both the original, and Fairlane Clusters are within 20RPM tolerance of each other, throughout the entire rev range !
2. The Odometer Readings can be swapped, changed or kept. The Odometer Reading is held within the Instrument Cluster, not within the EEC-V Engine Management, nor does the Instrument Cluster have a Backup Memory, or a Tamper-proof mechanism to deter Odometer Fraud !
3. There is no Electrical, or Calibration Difference within the Speedo sections of the cluster, in terms of different Factory fitted Diffs, wheel, and Tyre Ratios. Changing Clusters will not alter the Factory Speedo readings.

Adding the LCD Dimming Resistor

A Big thankyou goes out to WAYNE for Discovering this Interesting Quirk with the Fairmont Clusters, and for working out how to fix this problem !
NOTE : When fitting a Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia/EL-GT Instrument Cluster to a GLi/Futura/XR Model, you will need to add 1 Resistor to the Instrument Cluster, in order for the LCD Panels to Illuminate correctly.
Without this resistor, the LCD Panel(s) (Clock/Trip Computer/Climate Control/Odometer) will not Illuminate when the Park Lamps, or Headlamps have been switched on.
The reason for fitting this resistor is Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia/EL-GT/Fairlane/LTD Model Falcons use the Body Electronics Module to Dim the LCD Panels, when the Headlamps are switched On.
The Low and Mid Series Body Electronics Modules DO NOT HAVE THIS FACILITY.
Fords Method of getting around this problem, was to fit a Resistor the Instrument Clusters for use in GLi/Futura/XR Models.
This Resistor Feeds the Negative LCD Dimming Circuit, when the Park Lamps are on, and without it, the LCD Illumination Bulbs will not Illuminate.

Please Note : Fitting this resistor does not apply when fitting an XR Cluster, to a GLi/Futura/XR Model Falcon.

Finally, it is also worth noting that if fitting a GLi/Futura/XR clusters to a Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia/EL-GT, THIS RESISTOR WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED, and IN ORDER FOR THE Variable Dimming Function to work correctly with the LCD Panels.

The location of this resistor is on the Instrument Circuit Board, and is located to the right of the RHS Instrument Cluster Connector.
I.E. You will need to remove the Dials, and the circuit Board, flip the circuit board over, and solder the resistor in the position shown below.
The Following Picture will give you a better idea of its location,

The Resistor you will require is a 1Watt, 47 Ohm Resistor.
The Colour Bands for this resistor are Yellow, Violet, Black, Gold (5% Tolerance, 4 Band type).
Or for a 5 Band 1% Tolerance type resistor , the colour bands would be Yellow, Violet, Black, Black, Brown.
Please note though, you will Require a 1Watt type Resistor, due to the currents required by the LCD Panels.
The following are Catalogue Numbers for the above resistors, from various Electronics stores.
Jaycar - Cat RR-2542 - 47R 1 Watt Carbon Film, 5% ($0.32 Pkt of 2)
Dick Smith - R-1662 - Resistor 1W CF 47 Ohm, $0.10ea

Adding the Resistor
To do this, you will obviously need to remove the Instrument Cluster, and Disassemble.

To Disassemble the Instrument Cluster,

1.Remove the Clear Lens, and Black Plastic Lens Holder by removing the 2 Torx Screws Located at the top of the instrument cluster. (NOTE : You do not require a Torx bit to do this, a flat-headed screwdriver is perfectly adequate.)
2.Unclip the Black Plastic Lens Holder by unclipping the 2 clips at the top, and 3 clips at the bottom of the cluster.
3.Remove the Plastic Masking Lens away from the Dial Faces
4.Remove the 2 Torx Screws, Located at the back of the Instrument Cluster (Near the Bulb Holders). These screws are used to hold the Dial Faces in place.
5.Once these screws have been removed, gently ply the Dial faces away from their respective metal clips. This requires some force to do this, but it is important that you pull the faces directly up and away from the circuit board ! Do not try and Wiggle the faces away from the board.
6.To remove the Cluster Circuit Board, Remove the 2 Torx screws located At the bottom of the Circuit Board.
7.Finally, lift the circuit board from the top, up, and out of the Cluster casing. (Pulling the bottom electrical connectors out from the Casing housing).

Once the location is found, Heat up the Solder points outlined above, with a soldering iron, and attempt to clean the area of the solder.
Below the solder are mounting holes for the resistor. Removing the Excess Solder will allow the resistor to be mounted by placing its legs through these holes.
Once fitted, solder in place, and re-assemble the Instrument Cluster, and test.

Swapping Odometer Readings

Obviously, when swapping Instrument clusters, you will want to keep the same Odometer Readings for your vehicle.
Because the EF and EL series vehicles have a digital Odometer, simply cracking open, and winding the Odometer backwards will not work.
So how is the Odometer reading changed ?
Firstly, you will need to know a little bit about electronics.
The Odometer Reading, as well as the Trip meter, Service spanner setting, and possibly other settings, are stored in a device known in the Electronics industry as an EEPROM, or E²PROM, (pronounced E squared Prom).
An E²PROM is an Electrically Erasable, Electrically Programable, Read Only Memory, very similar to the Flash upgradeable Computer Bios.
Anyway, without boring you on how an E²PROM works, the model used in the VDO Instrument Clusters is an X24C44 Surface Mount model.
This chip is located approximately 1cm to the right of the chunkiest chip, on the back of the Instrument Cluster Circuit Board.
This is the same position as per the Low, Mid, and High Series Instrument Clusters.

As was previously mentioned, this chip is surface mounted, that is you will need special tools in order to remove it.
It is this chip that stores the Odometer, as well as other readings.
When swapping Instrument Clusters, you will need to De-Solder this chip, and swap it from your Original Instrument Cluster, to your new Instrument Cluster.
WARNING : I take no responsibility for any Damage that may be caused through any actions that are taken, that are directly, or Indirectly related to the information provided herein !
This is a small, delicate, and heat sensitive chip, and as such, is very susceptible to permanent damage, which WILL if damaged, render the instrument cluster USELESS !
Under no circumstances will Matthew I Jones be held responsible for any such damage.
Remember, this site is provided to you, free of charge, and it is up to yourself to correctly determine what modifications can be safely conducted by yourself !

Adding an Oil Pressure Sensor

Because the Low series Instrument Clusters do not have an Oil Pressure Meter, these vehicles do not have an Oil Pressure sensor fitted.
Instead of the Oil Pressure sender, they use an Oil Pressure switch.
What is the difference between these Oil Switch sender thingies I hear you ask ?

The Oil Pressure switch is just that, it switches to Ground when the Oil Pressure drops below a certain level.
This means that the Oil Pressure switch is only good for Switching a low Oil Pressure Lamp On or Off.
If a Mid or High series Instrument cluster is used with an Oil Pressure switch, the Oil Pressure gauge will either show 0 Oil Pressure, or very very High Oil Pressure, with no intermediate pressure.

The Oil Pressure Sender has a constantly variable Voltage, that is directly related to the Oil Pressure.
Obviously, this variable voltage is required for an Oil Pressure gauge.
The Mid and High Series Instrument Clusters also compare this voltage, and if the Voltage falls below a predetermined level, the low Oil Pressure Warning lamp is Illuminated.

The Oil Pressure Switch, and Oil Pressure sensor are located in exactly the same place, and as stated above, if fitting a Mid or High series Cluster, (I.E. upgrading from a Low series cluster), the Oil Pressure switch will need to be replaced with an Oil Pressure sensor.
These sensors are located roughly about 2 inches above the Oil Filter, on the Inline 6 motors.
The sensor also has a single wire coming from it, with a spade electrical connector.
The Oil Pressure sensor can be purchased from Wreckers for around $20.
Or alternatively, can be bought from Ford for around $50.00 - Ford Part Number EF-9D290-A

Adding the Low Coolant sensor

This is a worthwhile modification that can be made to the EF and EL Series model Falcons, as it is relatively inexpensive to do, and it can be added to ALL Instrument clusters, (low, Mid, and High Series).
Considering the number of cases of Head Gasket Problems with the EF and EL, this modification could save you a lot of money !
The only models that do not have the low Coolant Sensor are Unfortunately, the GLi models.
The Low Coolant Sensor is integrated in to the Plastic coolant Bottle, but can be added to an existing coolant bottle.
The part you will require is 10K888-AA, the low coolant level sensor.
This part simply screws in to the existing Coolant Overflow Bottle, but you will need to remove the blanking plug first.
Once this part has been fitted, you will then need to wire it up to the Instrument cluster
One wire is Black, and is connected directly to ground.
The other wire colour, Yellow/Red, should be connected directly to the Instrument Cluster, low coolant lamp, On the Right Hand Side connector, Pin Number 3.
Finally, you will need to add the Low coolant sensor Bulb to the Instrument Cluster.
This Bulb is located right next to the LCD Panel, on the Right Hand Side (With the Back of the Instrument Cluster facing towards you). The socket for this bulb may be blanked out by a round paper sticker, simply remove this sticker, and fit a new Bulb and Bulb Holder.

Adding the Fog/Spot/Driving Lamp Warning Circuit

A Big thankyou goes out to WAYNE for Discovering this Interesting Quirk with the EL Clusters, and for working out how to fix this problem !
The EF and EL series Instrument Clusters have the facility for a Fog/Spot/Driving Lamp Warning lamp, just above the Smartlock Warning Jewel, on the Instrument Cluster.
Although the Facility is there, there are some additions that you will need to make to the Instrument Cluster, in order for this function to work.
Firstly, a wire must be run to Pin 8, of the Left Hand Side (Passenger Side) Instrument Cluster.
This wire Needs to have +12Volts running to it, in order for the Spot Lamp Warning Jewel to Illuminate.
With most aftermarket Spot/Fog/Driving Lamp Circuits being triggered by switching +12V to the Spot Lamp circuit, this should not be a difficult task.
Once this has been completed, you will need to add an extra Bulb, and Bulb Holder to the Instrument Cluster.
There is a blanked out socket, just above the Smartlock LED. This socket is blanked out using a round paper sticker, and can easily be removed by simply peeling it off the circuit board.
Once this sticker is removed, you will need to fit a Bulb Holder, complete with a Bulb to this empty socket.
It is recommended that a 1.2Watt Globe is fitted to the Bulb Holder, though this is not terribly important (An increased Bulb Wattage will do no damage to the Cluster), you may find that at night time, 2Watt Bulbs may be too bright, and annoying.
If you have an EF Model Instrument Cluster, then this is all that is required. And you are now ready to test the Spot/Fog/Driving Lamp warning jewels operation.

Unfortunately, EL Model Instrument Clusters are a slightly different matter.
These clusters are missing 1 Diode that is VITALLY important for the Spot Lamp Warning Jewel operation.
For this circuit to function correctly, you will need to add 1 x 1N4004 Signal Diode to the circuit board, roughly behind the Battery Voltage Gauge. See the picture below for more details.
To do this, you will obviously need to remove the Instrument Cluster, and Disassemble.

To Disassemble the Instrument Cluster,

1.Remove the Clear Lens, and Black Plastic Lens Holder by removing the 2 Torx Screws Located at the top of the instrument cluster. (NOTE : You do not require a Torx bit to do this, a flat-headed screwdriver is perfectly adequate.)
2.Unclip the Black Plastic Lens Holder by unclipping the 2 clips at the top, and 3 clips at the bottom of the cluster.
3.Remove the Plastic Masking Lens away from the Dial Faces
4.Remove the 2 Torx Screws, Located at the back of the Instrument Cluster (Near the Bulb Holders). These screws are used to hold the Dial Faces in place.
5.Once these screws have been removed, gently ply the Dial faces away from their respective metal clips. This requires some force to do this, but it is important that you pull the faces directly up and away from the circuit board ! Do not try and Wiggle the faces away from the board.
6.To remove the Cluster Circuit Board, Remove the 2 Torx screws located At the bottom of the Circuit Board.
7.Finally, lift the circuit board from the top, up, and out of the Cluster casing. (Pulling the bottom electrical connectors out from the Casing housing).

Once this has been completed, you will need to locate the position that the 1N4004 Diode will need to be soldered in place.
The following image will assist you in this process.

Once the location is found, Heat up the Solder points with a soldering iron, and attempt to clean the area of the solder.
Below the solder are mounting holes for the Diode. Removing the Excess Solder will allow the Diode to be mounted by placing its legs through these holes.
The Diode ! MUST ! sit in the direction where the Silver Band (the Cathode end) is towards the center of the circuit board.
This is VITALLY IMPORTANT, as fitting the diode in the wrong direction will mean that the circuit will not Function AT ALL.
Once fitted, solder in place, and re-assemble the Instrument Cluster, and test.

Adding the Low Windscreen Washer Sensor

The Low Windscreen Washer Fluid Sensor detects when the level of the Windscreen washer fluid falls to a level that allows only a few more seconds of Windscreen washer operation.
The Warning lamp is integrated within the LCD Odometer panel, on the EF and EL Series Falcons, and surprisingly enough, it is actually available on all clusters.
Unfortunately, if you have a GLi Model, without ABS, then you will not have the electrical connector, and wiring already available.
EF/EL Futura Models, and GLi Models with ABS fitted will have this connector already fitted, and wired up, so all that is needed is to add the Low Washer Fluid Switch, which is part of the Windscreen washer Bottle.
The Windscreen washer Level sensor is a simple On Off switch, and is integrated within the Washer Bottle, using a rubber grommet. The sensor can be removed and fitted, but you would probably find that it is easier to simply purchase a new/used Bottle with the sensor already fitted, from a Fairmont, Fairlane or LTD.
The electrical connector is a Female T piece, and is exactly the same type as used on the Front Turn signals.
This piece has 2 wires coming from it, 1 wire is connected directly to ground (Black), and the other wire goes to the Instrument Cluster Right hand side connector. (Pink/Yellow wire)
(See below for Wiring Information, in regards to the Right Hand Side Instrument Cluster Connector).
As mentioned above, when the Windscreen washer level drops to a low level, this switch conducts, causing the Pink/Yellow wire going to the Cluster to be grounded. The Instrument Cluster will then Illuminate the Warning segment, on the LCD Panel.

Wiring Information for the EF Series Instrument Cluster EF Falcon Low and Mid Series Instrument Cluster Left Hand Side Instrument Cluster Connector
Pin 1	Not Used
Pin 2	Not Used
Pin 3	Illumination + (Park Lamp Relay)	+12V	Brown
Pin 4	Illumination - (Negative)	PWM Ground	Dark Blue / Red
Pin 5	Brake Fail	Ground	Violet White
Pin 6	Park Brake	Ground	Orange / Dark Green
Pin 7	Not Used		Black / Dark Green
Pin 8	Fog Lamp Relay	+12V	Not Connected
Pin 9	R.H. Blinker	+12V	Dark Green / Dark Blue
Pin 10	Hi Beam Relay	+12V	Dark Green / Orange
Pin 11	L.H. Blinker	+12V	Dark Green
Pin 12	Cruise Control Activated	Ground	Violet / Light Blue
Pin 13	Economy Mode (Trans)	Ground	Orange / White
Pin 14	ABS Check	Ground	White / Light Blue
Pin 15	Air Bag	Ground	Black / Yellow
Pin 16	Rear Window Demister	+12V	Yellow / White
Pin 17	Alternator Fail	Ground	Gray / Red
Pin 18	Power Ground	Ground	Not Connected
Pin 19	Not Used
Pin 20	Not Used
Right Hand Side Connector for Low and Mid Series Instrument Clusters
Pin 1	Signal Ground	Ground	Black / Dark Green
Pin 2	Fuel Sender	Resistance	Yellow / Dark Green
Pin 3	Low Coolant	Resistance	Yellow / Red
Pin 4	Speed Signal Input	Pulsed	White
Pin 5	Speed Signal Out	Data	White
Pin 6	Low Washer Fluid	Ground	Pink / Yellow
Pin 7	Tacho Input	Pulsed	Pink / Dark Blue
Pin 8	EEC Module Input	Data	Bluish
Pin 9	Speed sender Supply	+5V	Red
Pin 10	No Connection
Pin 11	Ignition Power	+12V	Red / Dark Green
Pin 12	No Connection
Pin 13	No Connection
Pin 14	Trip Computer Data	Data	Bluish
Pin 15	Smartlock LED	Ground	Dark Blue / Light Green
Pin 16	LCD Illumination (Negative)	PWM	White / Orange Black / White
Pin 17	LCD Illumination (Positive)	+12V	Red / Dark Green
Pin 18	Oil Pressure sender	Ground to Ground	White / Red
Pin 19	Ground	Ground	Black
Pin 20	Power	+12V	Yellow / Black
High Series NF/DL Fairlane/LTD Instrument Cluster Left Hand Side Left Hand Side Connector - 16Pin Left
Pin 1	Illumination + (Park Lamps Relay)	+12V	Brown
Pin 2	Illumination +	PWM	Dark Blue / Red
Pin 3	Brake Fail Warning	Ground	Yellow / White
Pin 4	Park Brake	Ground	Orange / Dark Green
Pin 5	No Connection		Black / Dark Green
Pin 6	Fog Lamp Relay	+12V	No Connection
Pin 7	R.H. Indicator	+12V	Dark Green / Dark Blue
Pin 8	Hi Beam Relay	+12V	Dark Green / Orange
Pin 9	L.H> Indicator	+12V	Dark Green
Pin 10	Cruise Control Activation	Ground	Yellow / Light Blue
Pin 11	Economy (Trans)	Ground	Green / White
Pin 12	ABS Check	Ground	White / Light Blue
Pin 13	Air Bag Fault	Ground	Black / Yellow
Pin 14	Rear Window Demister	Ground	Yellow / White
Pin 15	Alternator Fail	Ground	Grey / Red
Pin 16	No Connection
High Series NF/DL Fairlane/LTD Instrument Cluster Left Hand Side Right part of the Left Hand Side Connector - 12Pin Right
Pin 1	No Connection
Pin 2	No Connection
Pin 3	Door Switch Front Left (Passenger)	Resistance	White / Red
Pin 4	Door Switch Front Right (Driver)	Resistance	White
Pin 5	Door Switch Rear Left (Passenger Side)	Resistance	Black / Red
Pin 6	Door Switch Rear Right (Drivers Side)	Resistance	Black / Green
Pin 7	Fuel Flap Switch	Resistance	Dark Blue / Black
Pin 8	Boot Lid Switch	Ground	White
Pin 9	Check Suspension	Ground	Dark Green
Pin 10	No Connection
Pin 11	No Connection
Pin 12	No Connection
Right Hand Side Connector for High Series Instrument Clusters
Pin 1	Signal Ground	Ground	Black / Dark Green
Pin 2	Fuel Sender	Resistance	Yellow / Dark Green
Pin 3	Low Coolant	Resistance	Yellow / Red
Pin 4	Speed Signal Input	Pulsed	White
Pin 5	Speed Signal Out	Data	White
Pin 6	Low Washer Fluid	Ground	Pink / Yellow
Pin 7	Tacho Input	Pulsed	Pink / Dark Blue
Pin 8	EEC Module Input	Data	Bluish
Pin 9	Speed sender Supply	+5V	Red
Pin 10	No Connection
Pin 11	Ignition Power	+12V	Red / Dark Green
Pin 12	No Connection
Pin 13	No Connection
Pin 14	Trip Computer Data	Data	Bluish
Pin 15	Smartlock LED	Ground	Dark Blue / Light Green
Pin 16	LCD Illumination (Negative)	PWM	Black / White
Pin 17	LCD Illumination (Positive)	+12V	Red / Dark Green
Pin 18	Oil Pressure sender	Ground to Ground	White / Red
Pin 19	Ground	Ground	Black
Pin 20	Power	+12V	Yellow / Black
Back 4 Pin Connector for High Series Instrument Clusters This Connector is used for the Brake and Park Lamps Bulb out warning.
Pin 1	Brake Switch	-	Dark Green / Red
Pin 2	Park Lamp Relay	-	Brown
Pin 3	Brake Lamps	-	Brown
Pin 4	Rear Park Lamps	-	Dark Green / Red

Xf falcon alloy head torque specs

Wed, 04 Sep 2024 05:36:47 +0000

Hi guys, got a slight leak coming out of the head of and early cross flow in my Xf falcon. It’s just coming out of the head and onto the block ever so slightly. Just curious to know if anyone has ever re-torqued a head with a similar issue or if anyone has re-torqued a head and has had any success in general. Have a work shop manual somewhere but can’t seem to find it, just wanted to also know what the torque specs are for the head can’t really find a definitive answer after a lot of googling. Thanks in advance

EB XR8 ECU IGNITION AND POWER PINS

Tue, 03 Sep 2024 05:52:40 +0000

Hi folks. I have a 1966 XR ute with an auto EB XR8 efi motor and ecu. Since buying it about 7 years ago its had wiring for the ignition and fuel pump wired so as it will run the motor by switching from ON to accesories quickly or accidentaly. There are other electrical items that run on the ACC position as well that shouldnt such as the gauges, after market/custom. I will be attempting to get the ignition switch, xr-xy style, to a position i can try to figure whats what at that end but will also need to know where the wires plug into the ecu. Does anyone have a decent link or diagram of the ecu pin locations. I had one and lost the info but am hoping for help here. The car was partialy rewired but I feel the results are a big mess as origonal wire colours are gone and its married the the xr and eb wiring into a shamozle. Also what terminal on the XR switch is ACC and what is the terminal for what ever runs on th ON position. From what I think the centre terminal is power but the others are ????

indicator flashing too quickly

Thu, 07 May 2015 08:30:40 +0000

Hi all i noticed the other day that when i have either the left or right indicator on when im at the lights with the brake on the indicator clicks really quickly & the light also blinks really quick but it doesnt do it if my foot isnt on the brake. My first thought was maybe it needs a new flasher anybody else had this issue? This is the Zl btw.

Xf no spark

Sun, 23 Jun 2024 00:28:08 +0000

Hi all have 86 carby xf 4.1 with a electrical problem. After pulling the car apart trying to fine the fault I have decided to buy a bypass distributor (est) is there any other part needed to get some fire in the wire. The distributor is a two wires system it's a old school design but has no points . Is there any other part to get it going

Need help to connect wire to ICE ignition coil

Fri, 02 Aug 2024 04:58:25 +0000

Guys need to work out the best place to connect the wire to power the ICE ignition coil on my XB.

On the schematics there are 2 wires going to the coil, one is the resistance wire going back to the ignition switch, the other is brown wire with red trace that's coming from the starter solenoid.

I know the resistance wire is no good but what purpose was the Brown/Red wire from the starter solenoid for?

I was thinking of connecting a wire on the Green ignition wire to the coil, would that be a better choice?.

After market distributor by pass EST

Sun, 14 Jul 2024 08:36:33 +0000

Hi all after nearly 4 weeks of head fucks with no spark issues. The xf is running like a old clock . Step 1 when that new distributor turns up on the door step or over the counter. Check the wiring on the icm for 1 lack of heat transfer paste 2 check for loose connection on the module. Because if you dont I can personally say you will be putting your head under the bonnet in 3 weeks fact .

XG distributor

Sun, 16 Jun 2024 11:35:10 +0000

G'day, read everywhere to avoid the non Bosch distributors, can the Bosch versions still be found/ brought new ?

Haven't checked yet if mine is still original unit. But starting to look around for a new one.

The car has a rhythm to its idle up and down and I'm thinking it will be dizzy/ coil ?

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XF - engine bay relays near brake booster (carby)

Sat, 30 Mar 2024 01:31:10 +0000

Hi does anyone know what the 2 relays near the brake booster do for the xf falcon. I understand these are only in the late model carby xf’s

have checked wiring diagrams - can’t locate them.

I suspect one is a starter relay.

Stand alone wiring

Thu, 21 Dec 2023 08:01:52 +0000

Hi guy's

So I'm pulling a au motor for the new race car build which is a bf, so I'm looking for options on getting rid of all the crap I don't need like smart lock, just need to run the computer for timing and ignition and that stuff.

So fire away on what I can do please

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Points ignition to electronic. Removal of ballast resistor.

Mon, 15 Jan 2018 04:24:18 +0000

Hey sparkies, been a while since I've done a swap to electronic dizzy, if i remember right, the Falcons without the ceramic ballast resistor, had a Pink 'resistor wire' from the ignition to the coil. This needs to be bypassed to get the full 12 volts at the coil, right.?? The big thick pink one on the bottom of the picture, the other is the brown/red.